140mm crank pulley, 6-rib

[soflarick]

140mm crank pulley, 6-rib setup, for MP62 SC system. Used but in excellent shape. Pulley only, no fasteners etc. $75 shipped to your door. Email me. Thanks.

[V8KILR]

wow, 140? How much hp did your car make with that, and what did you do to safely run it?

[soflarick]

Bought it used, never used it. Car made 250/200 at the wheels with a 130/62.5 pulley combo, saw 13 psi on the Hydra datalogs. Hotside with a TDR intercooler and engine is rebuilt.

[V8KILR]

It will work with a coldside? Is it black or aluminum?

[FormerDatsun510Man]

On Flyin' Miata's website there is a guy with a MP62 Hotside setup running this pulley that made 262rwhp. That falls in line with my Hotside MP62 setup making 240rwhp with the 130/65 pulley ratio. Also, at BRP, with this pulley on an '02 Miata MP62 Hotside it made about 240rwhp (remember the '01+ typically dyno a bit lower). How safe is it on a stock engine? I think it is borderline to be honest. That is why I am running a 130 pulley. I want as much reliable hp as possible :). Even though I like boost just as much as anyone else, I want to play it safe. That is why I put in factory 9:1 pistons on my stock engine rebuild and stayed with the 130mm pulley. I personally think the 140 and 150 pulleys are safest to use with a built engine. That being said, the guy with the 240rwhp '02 Miata has 20K miles on it with no issues so maybe it can be ok to run on a stock engine LOL.

Can it be run on a Coldside? With WI, I "think" it could work. But you would be the first and really the only way to know is to go to the dyno and start swapping pulleys. I would be most concerned with ping, which at these boost levels would be risky. It could turn out that even with no ping you may lose power. But again the only way to know would be to dyno it with each pulley and do some testing.

Bill

[V8KILR]

Like I'm sure I've metioned before, I do have a "built" engine, if by built you mean, ported and polished head, forged pistons, etc. I'm not sure how built the engine is as Mark didn't explain in much detail, and in recent research I have discovered that I do NOT have a 5th injector, and so I am not sure how safe I am right now. I'm also not sure what ping sounds like.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

The most important aspect of the built engine is that you have forged rods/pistons. If you have that, then as far as engine strength is concerned you could even run the 150mm pulley. However, with the Coldside it is also a matter of how much pulley you can run without ping. I wouldn't try those sort of pulley sizes without WI.

Bill

[V8KILR]

What about E-cool? That's the same as WI, right?

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Water has a higher latent heat of evaporation, thus should drop the temp more. The E-Cool seems to work well on the Coldside kits running up to the 115mm pulley or so, but I am not sure about running a 140 or 150 pulley :). Everything has its limits you know. If I were you, I would first of all find out what pulley size is currently on your setup, dyno and tune that, then procede one pulley size at a time. It might cost you more in pulleys and belts... but that is way cheaper than a new engine. Forged rods and pistons don't protect you against ping, they are there for protecting from increased stress at higher power levels with the engine running without ping :).

Bill

[V8KILR]

How do you convert mm to inches? Do you know?

[Satisaii]

1 mm = .03937 inches

If you type "130 mm in inches" into Google, it will give you the answer.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Since you setup has only the 105 pulley, jumping up to a 140 pulley would be WAAAYYYY too much to do in one step. I hate to say it, but you could kiss your engine goodbye even if you do add E-Cool. Go by what people already know works. I believe the standard kits have gone as far as a 115 or 120 pulley with the E-Cool. I would do that first, then when that is running perfectly look at what you would do to go up the next step in power. It might turn out you have to run both E-Cool and WI and then a 140 pulley will work. It might turn out there are flow issues with the 140 pulley. I haven't heard of anyone running that much pulley with the Coldside so it would be new (i.e. risky) ground to cover.

Just wanted to warn you because it sounds like you are itching for more power but still lacking a bit of experience/knowledge... if you don't mind me saying so. I would rather come across as a slight jerk than have you lose an engine :).

Bill

[V8KILR]

Thanks, I won't take offense to much of anything you guys say, because, like you said, I am lacking in experience/knowledge, so if you tell me something or correct me I have no reason to get offended. Thanks for explaining. I figured a 105mm to 140mm jump would be a little :) much, but remember, I thought I had a 120mm when I first replied to this ad. Since this is mostly my dad's car, and I will get to enjoy it when I turn 16 I won't/don't have any business modifying it without permission. As of now, I am learning as much as I can before I get MY miata so I don't jump into something stupid(like putting a SC on an engine with 200,000 mi:))
Also, I guess Mark was running a 120mm pulley with a 5th injector pre-blower at the TB adapter. Would that be good enough or is E-COOL or something post-blower the only way?

[FormerDatsun510Man]

There are many ways. It comes down to engine managment really. Since you can't run an FMIC (obviously) but you need max air charge cooling as possible for maximum power possible. To me, that would mean WI. You will also need of course enough fuel, control of the timing too and an engine management solution that can keep good control of it under all times. The reason is that at higher power/boost levels this becomes more and more crucial. As far as piggybacks go, I think the PC Pro is the best there is out there compared to the older PC, Voodoo or ELF. The reason is that it gets the stock ECU into open loop correctly without upsetting anything else (i.e. it sets the throttle position sensor to 100% as soon as it senses any boost... this throws the stock ECU into open loop mode immediately with no side effects). It also has an accelerator pump functionality now that improves the transition into boost and keeps the a/f ratio stable. However, on top of that you would need an extra injector to have enough total fuel if running this setup since you would need to stay with the stock injectors. However, to go for ultimate power I think you are going to also need WI. Just my opinion. You could see how far you can go with just an extra injector, i.e. E-Cool, but I think you will find it is what has already been shown here... about a 115-120mm pulley. The other option would be to go with something that allows larger injectors and full control of the engine management. The Megasquirt looks interesting to me and honestly I would look into it if I had a 1st gen Miata and was going for ultimate power. The FM Link is another standalone that has the advantage of being around the longest and having a lot of support. If you went this route you would go with four larger main injectors and add WI for cooling. I don't know what the max pulley you would be able to end up with, but this sort of setup would probably yield the ultimate power. At the same time it also requires that you become very knowledgeable about setting it up and tuning it, and for this reason can get you into more trouble :). It comes down to how far you want to go with it IMO.

Bill

[Agent]

Rick, I want it. PM sent.

Oh god. I though this was from freakin '09. I feel like an idiot.