Other than the Supercharger?

[Steve in VC]

I am saving up for a supercharger (coldside, or hotside if it is CARB approved - Toms submitted and should know pass / fail by Feb).

I upgraded to a LSD, installed a roll bar (in case I have too much fun), heavier sway bars, and upgraded the shocks to adjustable type.

I have HP Plus pads, stainless brake lines, and high temp brake fluid ready to install.

I expect to upgrade the clutch when it slips too much (I hope that is as soon as I have the supercharger installed and tuned).

I expect to upgrade to 225/50/15 tires on 7 or 8 inch wide rims.

I live in Southern CA, and do drive in the desert - is upgrading the radiator to dual tube necessary, a good idea, or unnecessary?

Is there anything else I need to upgrade?

Thanks,
Steve

[socal pat]

Power = heat so any time you can remove heat from air, water, or oil you are better off.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Big yes on the radiator. In the southern CA desert you practically need a better radiator with a stock engine. I would suggest either PWR or Koyo race radiator. The larger radiator for the automatic Miata is not enough.

Bill

[Steve in VC]

I upgraded the sway bar, so can only go to the two core radiator.

If I run water with Redline Water Wetter with a little antifreeze (water has a higher specific heat than antifreeze).

Will that be enough? Or should I downgrade the sway bar, and go with the three core?

Thanks,
Steve

[bogey]

The 37mm Koyo radiator is excellent. I drove cross country last year in July and the AZ 115 degree heat with AC on was not a problem. Extended hard driving, the water temp never went pastt 11 o'clock position and the oil temp gauge never went over 220.

[gludlow]

I've already spent too much on upgrades for my Coldside, but a radiator upgrade has me intrigued. Any opinion for a driver in Illinois? Waste of $$?

The worst I'll probably see is 90s with high humidity. I don't AutoX or anything (not yet at least:alucard:)

Course I still have stock suspension, that's on my Christmas list, too:drool5:.

[bogey]

A radiator is NOT a required upgrade for the supercharger. The stock radiator will handle the heat if it is in good condition. However, given the age of our cars and a plastic top on the radiator that is brittle, it is an inevitable replacement.

You can get a 'standard' radiator for about 130-150, or a top of the line Koyo for about $280. The standard radiators have more capacity than the stock ones, and the Koyo is even higher capacity. Plus it really looks great!

[Steve in VC]

What other upgrades?

I know 90* @ 100% humidity is harder on me than 90* @ 40% humidity. What I don't know is does it cool a radiator as well.

Any experts?

[bogey]

Humidity is not a factor in radiator cooling. Humidity is only an issue with wet surfaces because it controls rate of evaporation. Radiators are dry on the outside.

[MiataMTF]

I've always believed that an oil cooler is a better way to achieve additional engine cooling capacity. The air-cooled VWs and Porsches ran for years without a water jacket or radiator. The only question is where to mount one for best results.

[bogey]

I have an oil temp gauge and find it runs between 190-210 degrees when cruising on a hot day. If pushed, temp will increase to 220. I don't think I would want the oil to run much cooler.

[Steve in VC]

Humidity is not a factor in radiator cooling. Humidity is only an issue with wet surfaces because it controls rate of evaporation. Radiators are dry on the outside.

Actually I was worried about the specific heat of dry air vs wet air. I looked it up today, and 100% humidity has a specific heat about 4% better than dry air.

Not enough to be significant, and certainly not enough to move from San Diego (I grew up in Minnesota - 10,000 lakes, 100 billion mosquitoes, and much of the summer over 80% humidity).

I will upgrade the radiator due to too much stop and go driving during rush hours, (and hours). Had to turn off the air-conditioning and turn on the heater last summer when I actually saw the water temp gauge move.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

More than the specific heat is the ability to transfer/conduct the heat. Wet air conducts the heat off the surface of the radiator/intercooler better than dry air. Dry air is a poor thermal conductor. Wet/humid air is great.