Yet Another Cold Air Intake

[TrackDayHookey]

FFS Fans,

Here's my crack at a cold air intake for my '94 with FFS Coldside. During road tuning I noticed that the stock location (AIS or alternator air intake;) ) seemed to be a bit hot (I saw approximately 50F above ambient on a 70F day). I have a very tired motor (it was slow NA, and not as peppy as I'd like now) and have been trying to get all the power I can until I can get a healthy used motor installed.

Here's the pics:
http://www.jennings-engineering.com/carfun/FilterMaf.JPG

http://www.jennings-engineering.com/carfun/HeatShield.JPG

http://www.jennings-engineering.com/carfun/SCTubing.JPG

http://www.jennings-engineering.com/carfun/SCElbow.JPG

The air box is pretty standard for home built (1/16 Aluminum whittled into shape from a cardboard template). The tubing is a collection of items. I got the tight 90 deg rubber elbow ("Cobra Elbow") from:
http://intakehoses.com
I also got a 45 degree elbow, a short coupler and a foot of tubing (all 3"). I had originally done it all with intakehoses stuff, but the tubing was a press-fit between the valve cover and hood, so I hit the ricer section at Auto-zone and found a 3" intake tube about 18" long with a 45 deg bend at one end. It also came with an adapter ring that makes 3" tubing fit the MAF really well. So from the MAF in, its: Adapter ring, 45 deg elbow, 3" long 3" tubing, 3" long 3" sleeve, ricer tube, cobra elbow, throttle body.

Working on the car is easy - loosen the clamp at the throttle body, unplug the MAF and the whole thing comes out.

I got some self adhesive heat shield stuff from Summit Racing and covered the air box with that. I also got the "gay gladiator" lace-up shield for good measure. All together it's probably $150-$200, plus $3 million in engineering time.:hammer:

To let air in I used a 3" hole saw under the left headlight. Under the hole there are plastic pieces that bring mud- and water-free air from the grill area.

After all that I saw temperatures that were 10F above ambient. Dropping the inlet temp 40F should make about 3% more power and buy some ping margin on a hot day.

Note: The best power mod to date (other than the FFS CS) has been the addition of a Racing Beat 4>1 header. It's not any louder than stock, looks cool, and it bumped the car from 167 whp to 180 whp.

That's it,

Gordon

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

40* is awesome.

[TrackDayHookey]

40* is awesome.

Ain't it though:biggrin:

The temperature seen in that (the stock) spot is probably very sensitive to the state of the undertray and any other goodies in the area of the radiator. I could see it being hotter or colder than I measured, since air sources of different temperatures "compete" a bit for flow around the engine.

[Bill @ Fast Forward]

Cool! :biggrin:

I especially like the simplicity of the design and to me it makes the maintenance simpler. Now you have more direct access to both the air and oil filters. It would be cool to see a single piece rotomolded version of your intake :).

Bill

[99mx5]

Nice! I wanted to route over the engine too. Pinching the hose between the hood and engine is what stopped me from routing over the engine.



Edit: Remove the laced wrap and wrap it with black header wrap and it will look even better.

[TrackDayHookey]

Edit: Remove the laced wrap and wrap it with black header wrap and it will look even better.

For heat rejection you want shiny surfaces, particularly between surfaces of large temperature difference (exhaust = 1300+ degF, intake = 100 degF). The intake passes right over the exhaust manifold, and I cobbled this thing together when I still had the stock exhaust (with it's moderate heat shielding) in place. So I went for overkill.

The blue string looked more like it belonged before I changed the plug wires to red (chasing yet another gremlin), so maybe I'll do the performance upgrade of changing the string to red as well;)

While I'm at it, I'd like to say thanks for all the good information in this forum:cheers2:. It was a huge help all along the way. Not that M.net and MT.net aren't also helpful, but since I don't need directions for drawing and quartering Tom, many of the postings weren't that useful:biggrin:

[99mx5]

My bad, you are right. Wrap is for retaining heat, not repelling it.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

LOL. Well, if you sell your SC, buy a turbo and run it with a megasquirt, you will have 72 vestial virgins at your beck and call. I have learned that from mnet. However, you won't pass emissions in any state that reads OBD2, it will never be CARB certified and off boost drivability will suffer. But there IS the 72 vestial virgins.

I can't get past the potty mouth language on mt .net to bother to read it. ;)

I promise that on this furum turbo owners are welcome anytime. I further promise that if you ask a question about a turbo, you will not be immediately told to buy a supercharger. :)


Not that M.net and MT.net aren't also helpful, but since I don't need directions for drawing and quartering Tom, many of the postings weren't that useful:biggrin:

[ROZ]

Whilst browsing at work (d'oh) I saw this. Should work a treat for LHD c/s and RHD h/s. You've probably all seen it before...
http://www.markdepot.com/cai/