UK install started

[Macca]

Well I finally made a start on my 1994 install yesterday, I had been waiting for the last couple of bits to arrive(Thanks Tom:party:) before taking the car off the road.
First few observations/questions/possible issues.

I don't have an Intake Temp sensor!
I don't have an Exhaust Gas Recirculation system!
My Idle Air Controller has coolant running through it!
Using a 3/8 Wobble drive extension the inlet manifold nuts were straight forward to remove!
Why do I need to remove/refit the alternator?
Do I need to seal the bolts (ie Plumber tape/silicon) that bolt the manifold brace to the manifold?

Hopefully I'm not speaking to soon but so far its been a little easier than I had expected, and I'm now at the best stage, BOLTING STUFF BACK ON!!

Will try to keep you all informed as the install continues, and I'm sure to be back soon asking why I've still got 2 bolts, 3 nuts and a washer left over and nothing left to fit!!!
Col

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I don't have an Intake Temp sensor! Skip that step
I don't have an Exhaust Gas Recirculation system! Skip that step
My Idle Air Controller has coolant running through it! And you will need to connect those lines again on the remote mount. It is in the instructions.
Using a 3/8 Wobble drive extension the inlet manifold nuts were straight forward to remove! :taz::taz:
Why do I need to remove/refit the alternator? Makes it easier to install the bolts from the bottom side of the intake manifold. Especially the front one.
Do I need to seal the bolts (ie Plumber tape/silicon) that bolt the manifold brace to the manifold? Wouldn't hurt to put a dab of ultra-black on them but not mandatory.

Curious to see who finishes first. :) Drew, quit looking at all the pretty parts and get busy.

[Satisaii]

Did Andrew manage to get all of those packages into his luggage?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Amazingly yes. I was shocked when he got the supercharger in it's box (26x16x14) INSIDE a suitcase. :)

[Macca]

My Idle Air Controller has coolant running through it! And you will need to connect those lines again on the remote mount. It is in the instructions.


Do I need to keep the mounting position of the remote mount below a certain level to avoid problems with air in the coolant system?

Tom, is it possible I've printed off the wrong instructions?
There have been a couple of differences in the photos and I can't find any reference to these coolant lines?

Col
PS if you didn't make the kits so pretty they'd get fitted a lot quicker!!!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

You have the correct instructions. I have one set for the 94-97 and there arew some differences. You did download the instructions for the 94-97, correct?

The water is under pressure. Mounting position isn't relative for that small amount of water.

[Macca]

HI Tom,
Yes I've just double checked and I did get the 94-97 ones, not to worry, I have been out and got some new coolant pipe so theres nothing holding me back now
I trial fitted the inlet today and can now understand the benefit of removing the alternator, it does get a little tight under there.

Fingers crossed I'm not to busy in work tomorrow so can get quite a bit done with a view to complete by the end of next week.
Col

[MX-Drew]

The weather is holding me back as my garage is too small to work in so I have to do it on the drive. I hope to do it next weekend.

Anyway I was the first in the UK to drive a FFS'd MX-5 / Miata, and I can say I have not got rid of the smile yet. Thanks Tom for the drive and for putting me and the better half up for 10 days.

Yes I not only got everything in my cases but I was about 2 pounds under the 200 pound limit I had (two people two 50 pound cases each). The US security did open all but one of my bags, would you believe they did not open the one with all the wires in. I must apologise to UK customs as I forgot to declare it.:biggrin:

[MX-Drew]

HI Tom,
Yes I've just double checked and I did get the 94-97 ones, not to worry, I have been out and got some new coolant pipe so theres nothing holding me back now
I trial fitted the inlet today and can now understand the benefit of removing the alternator, it does get a little tight under there.

Fingers crossed I'm not to busy in work tomorrow so can get quite a bit done with a view to complete by the end of next week.
Col

Good luck, and let me know how it goes although we have different cars as mine is a 1.8 04 but you may find something.

[MX-Drew]

Amazingly yes. I was shocked when he got the supercharger in it's box (26x16x14) INSIDE a suitcase. :)

And even more shocked when we got everything in his car to go to the airport :driving:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Please note that it was my Malibu and not the 99. ;) 4 people and all that baggage wouldn't fit in the 99.

And even more shocked when we got everything in his car to go to the airport :driving:

[MX-Drew]

Please note that it was my Malibu and not the 99. ;) 4 people and all that baggage wouldn't fit in the 99.

Fair point.

[gludlow]

Oh, come on... an aftermarket luggage rack + "cozy" seating you could have done it.:party: You're an engineer, you'd have figured out a way if you tried hard enough.:)

Any updates on the new installation?

[Macca]

Just a quick update on the progress of my installation.

I have been spending the odd hour here and there on the car as work has allowed, so its not a true reflection of the timescale required to install the complete kit.
After too many hours struggling to first get the inlet manifold nuts back on and then the even more difficult task of tightening them up, I finally gave in :surrender:to my stubborn "I'll be able to do it!" ways and admitted that I need to remove the starter motor to give myself any chance of progressing forward sometime this month.
Yes, hindsight is a wonderful thing, and yes, had I removed the starter when I removed the alternator I would be a lot further on.:redface:
So, my current state of play is, inlet manifold fitted, I have picked up my new O rings for the injectors so tomorrow will see the fitting of the fuel rail.Stupid question, I do use both top seal and bottom insulator along with the new O ring when I refit the injectors don't I?
Also what is the general consensus on the supply to the fuel rail, single/double feed, back/front end?
I have bought some fittings to dual feed from either end, but is it worth doing?
Will let you know when a little more progress is made,
thanks
Col

[lds2002black]

I went through the same thing ... once I removed the starter it was a LOT easier!

[Macca]

Quick undate, just had a quick hour on the car and installed the fuel rail.
Then took it off again as it makes it difficult to reach the allen bolts bolting the SC on to the manifold!!
So, the Manifolds on, Supercharger on and fuel rail back on, getting there slowly.
Col

[Macca]

Tom,
I'm not quite there yet, but at first glance there appears to be a fair old length of throttle cable to "loose" between the bulkhead and the mounting bracket, do you have any words of wisdom or even better, photos, to guide me on the best way to route the cable?
Thanks
Col

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

My best solution would be to move the steering wheel and gas pedal to the proper side of the car. :)

Honestly I don't know what to tell you? drop t down? The new bracket should take up any slack.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

If you have leaks at the injector and fuel rail, you probably rolled the o-ring on the injector. I found a thin wipe of grease on the o-rings before stuffing them into the fuel rail helps. Just did that last Saturday. I put them together 3-4 times before I finally got it. Then I used a dab of grease and problem solved.

There is still three pieces of rubber on each injector. Top and bottom pieces and the o-ring.

The new fuel rail is 4 times more volume than the original rail so I just single end feed it on my 99.

[Macca]

My best solution would be to move the steering wheel and gas pedal to the proper side of the car. :).

Its an option Tom, but I'm not to impressed with my girlfriends driving!!

Ta

Col

[Macca]

Looks like the throttle cable will have to come from the front of the car, then back into the throttle body due to the length of the cable.IE from the opposite direction.
I have done a quick mock up using the bracket that Tom supplies, turned 180 degrees, and feeding straight on to the throttle,it works but it feels like I have more pedal movement than the throttle body will permit.
It will do to get the car up and running but definitely an area I will need to revisit.

Regarding the fuel rail, is there any reason why I shouldn't put the FPR at the same end of the rail that the fuel supply is fed in from?
I know its not as per the instructions, but due to the positioning of the original rigid fuel pipes that both face the rear of the engine bay, it just makes for a tidier install.

Oh well, lets see what we can get done tomorrow.
Col

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I think I have some pictures of the other RHD installs in Australia and I don't recall any issues with the throttle cables? We have even modified the bracket you have to give more adjustment tolerance. Can you post pictures?

[Macca]

Pictures?
Now your getting technical!:sweatdrop:
306

307

Hope this works,
Col

[MX-Drew]

Interesting solution, I took mine around the back of the brake fluid reservoir then had everything else as Tom describes.

I will take some pictures later but the rain is to bad here.

By the way I don't like the look of that kink in the pipe from the throttle body adaptor plate.

[Macca]

Interesting solution, I took mine around the back of the brake fluid reservoir then had everything else as Tom described

I did try it that way originally but there was just too much cable to try and loose somewhere.
The way it is in the photos is still just a mock up and may well change once the basics are completed.

Tom, the vacum line to the bypass actuator is shown on the drawing as coming from the inlet manifold next to the feed to the PC pro but I only have one barb there and the other outlet is pluged.
Do I tee into the same line or does the actuator gets its feed from somewhere else?

Just need to finish the last of the vacum lines and tidy up the wiring before the most exciting/worrying moment of the install.
Turning the key for the first time:party:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That vacuum line now goes to the VDB instead of the IM. I included an extra 1/4" barb fitting for that purpose.

[MX-Drew]

Macca, a word of warning, when putting in the vacuum line for the brake booster use the original hose and the same way around as it went before because on RHD cars the non return valve is in the hose. You should be able to feel a lump in about the middle. I guess you could cut the valve out and put it in a new hose.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Drew,

That is the same for all Miatas.

[MX-Drew]

Drew,

That is the same for all Miatas.

I stand corrected, but still the point is the same. ;)

[MX-Drew]

Macca,

How is it going?

[Macca]

Hi Drew,
Just waiting for some 3" aluminium pipe and silicon connectors to arrive so I can route the inlet back over the engine to the other side as I can't get the set up to "look right" if I try and fit it the same side as the SC, plus it saves the hassle of extending the plug for the Air FLow Meter which is a bonus!!
Will remove the clutch reservoir to allow a little more room for the bend into the SC and fingers crossed it should be ready for a final check before the key gets turned.

Have been struggling for time recently as work have decided I need a class 1 hgv license so have been tied up with that which to be honest hasn't really bothered me as the weather has been so bad!

I'm guessing your rather happy with your efforts?

Thanks
Colin

[MX-Drew]

Hi Colin,

Sorry I missed your reply.

I know what you mean about the intake, I'm going to do something similar. Where are you getting the aluminium tube from?

You wait till you get it on the road, and be careful not to put your foot down if you can see a car in front as you will soon be in it's boot :)

Are you a member of the MX-5 owners club or on their forum?

[Macca]

I can't believe how long its been since my last visit.
Well, after a big delay due to a huge increase in work load, I have finally got the job finished(ish)!
She's up and running and I've even managed a short, gentle drive to give it a shake down and so far so good.:)
So, now my next step is to have a look at my AFR.
I already have an Innovate LM-1 wideband 02 gauge to help me with the setting up but I'm not to sure where to start.
Do I need to install the additional sensor?
I know that the LM-1 can output a narrowband signal to allow me to re-use the original boss to mount my sensor but is this a good option, and if so where do I pick up the original harness to the ECU for the narrowband signal?
Can I do an initial run without the OEM Lambda connected just to get an idea of how things are or would this be a waste of time?
I need to get this sorted as the temptation to "just drive it" is beginning to get to much and I'd hate to ruin things now after all this time.
Thanks in advance
Col

[MX-Drew]

That is good news and well done.

Do doubt Tom will confirm this but I would say you can "just drive" if you have not changed the settings on the cards. Tom sends them with good default values but just listen out for ping.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Colin,

Great. It would be even better if you had a way to confirm A/F but, like Drew says, drive it, listen for ping and feel how it drives. The default settings should be good. Check the blue light on the cards and see if it comes on right at boost, if you have a boost gauge, and, if it comes on early, you might have one of the files from the old compiler. Drew has a programmer and he can re-flash it for you if needed.

[Macca]

Tom,
All appears good so far, so sign of any ping yet.
Only issue is a small "stutter" around 2500rpm as I lift off the throttle then back on again, after that is clears its throat and pulls rather well:driving:

I will get the LM1 installed, I'm doing it as a permanent install as I came with a LMA-3 which will measure boost along with a host of other things.
I've picked up a stainless manifold so I will get the extra boss installed in that before its fitted, is it worth removing the cat?

Thanks
Col

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Sounds like a plan. Not sure what the stutter is when you lift and return? Could be ECU learning yet?

Stock cat is only a problem if it is not in good condition. If it is still flowing well, it will be fine. When you have the exhaust down for the header, take down the cat too and see how much light you can see. The more light, the better.

[Macca]

If anyone is interested I've included a couple of photos to show the route I ended up running for the inlet as I was struggling to keep it all on the "cold side."
Its still not the finished item as it needs a little tidying up of cables/wires etc but I'm sure you get the idea.
The 3" aluminium pipes/connectors came from ebay, sold as a universal intercooler kit,£80 and I've used less than a 1/3 of the kit.
So lots left if I want to reroute in the future!!
Hope it helps
Col

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Nice job with the air intake. Now box in the filter and watch the temps drop.

[ROZ]

I did scratch my head a bit when wondering why you have a coldside SC and route the air intake from the hotside?? Is there insufficient room between the master cylinder and steering gear to route it underneath as per the LHD?

My lowly 1.6 only has a hotside option - but given Dan's trials in AZ, it doesn't look that bad at all:devil2:

If I go for it, it could be the first RHD 1.6

[Macca]

Hi Andrew,
The space between master cylinder and the inlet to the SC is very snug:blush5:
I found it an easier option to run it as per the pics and not extending the MAF wiring was a bonus!!

Anyway, a quick update.
I've had a couple of attempts to get the set up running "sweet" but things would appear to change depending on the day of the week :censored:
It didin't help that I would be able to have a play for a couple of hours one day than have to come back to it 2-3 days later, or sometimes a week or two would pass by.
I'm not trying to make any excuses here but it would be good to blame something for my massive cockup:oops:
It would appear that at some point trying to set things up I had lost track of which card was which, yes that's correct, soft lad here was trying to alter his e-cool setting on his PC pro and viceversa:blush5::no:
Well I've finally sorted things out and things are going rather well to say the least, it looks like Tom has managed to turn my car into an automatic, just stick it in topgear and drive it, no great need to change down anymore, unless I want to hear my fantastic Larrini exhaust.
Only downside so far is the fuel consumption, its not a problem caused by the SC directly just a spin off from the problem I now have with my right foot, hopefully it wont wear off to soon:tongue::driving:
Thanks Tom,

Col