Installation on a RHD 1.6???

[ROZ]

I've been talking to Tom for the past couple of weeks about installing an FFS Hotside on my RHD 1.6, and obviously trying to cover all the bases. With having brake cylinder, throttle and steering on the other side gives us Brits (and other Commonwealthers) something to think about :stuart:

Perhaps the tricky thing with the hotside is the throttle cable, as the standard RHD one is short (from the driver's side, RH, to the throttle). Going over the LHS for the new SC throttle needs a LHD throttle cable. Just need to look at the best (cheapest) way to procure this. Best UK quote I've got (from Mazda Europe via Autolink, UK) is about £35.

Wonder if I can get better a deal in the US. ;)

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

If you can figure out which one, I could get it here when the time comes and send it as part of the kit.

[ROZ]

Cheers Tom
I'm told it's FB44-41-660C :yes:
Thanks

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Remind me when/if we sell you the kit.

BTW, so far, so good on Dan's Miata. Hindsight is always 20/20 but I wish we had stayed with a his original stock engine. Even with the low leak down in piston 1, it would probably still be making power and we would have 1.5 years under our belt.

[Elphaba]

Ive decided to put in a 5.0 V8...:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

[Elphaba]

Honestly. This thing goes like stink! I was out driving it the other day and it was only about 100 F so I had the AC off and the top down. WOW! Press foot; Pass porsche! What fun. :driving:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

ready for the 110mm? Just kidding. No, you can't have it.

[ROZ]

I wish we had stayed with a his original stock engine. Even with the low leak down in piston 1, it would probably still be making power.

Which reminds me, I had my cylinder compressions checked last service and I've got the following;

1 175
2 155
3 170
4 170

Is cylinder 2 going to be a problem? :frown:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Well, it may need work someday. :)

On Dan's first engine, we made 170 (180?) WHP and his cylinder #1 had 55% leakdown. The other three were in the 95% (or 5% depending on whether you consider the glass hald full or half empty?) range where 100% would be perfect.

[ROZ]

Checking Haynes the spec is 192psi @ 300rpm with a minimum of 135psi, so that makes my 155 about 33% of that range. The 170s are 64%.

How did you base the measurement of the 50% leakdown?

What constitutes "work" to bring them back up to spec, and more importantly what's the ballpark $$$ (which will no doubt be higher over here!!)

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Leakdown is a totally different test. It is done with an air hose and a set of gauges. With the piston at TDC and the valves closed, you apply an air pressure of a fixed amount (like 100PSI). The second gauge shows the pressure in the cylinder (say 90 PSI). In this case 90/100 would be 90%. 100% would be perfect. I have ~90% on 2, 3, 4 and ~55% on 1. Still pulls like crazy. It has beenn that way for quite a while now. Since back when I was running the 115mm pulley. It would be better if it were 100 across the board. :)

Compression tests only show what the piston could pump but not what would leak back down. With a leak down test, it is easy to determine whether it is rings or intake valves or exhaust valves. In my case, unfortunately, it is rings. If it were simply valves, I would pull the head and do a valve job.

[ROZ]

One thing I was thinking about today was that on a RHD car there's enough room on the hotside to fit a snorkel like you've got on the LHD Coldside installations. All we've got on the LHS is the exhaust downspipe to avoid - warm I know, but if getting all that lovely cool air from beneath the radiator...?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

For a hotside, especially on RHD, there should be several easy places to get cool air. If it was mine, I would look at getting it from the cowl area or making a CAI box to go back in the general area of the stock air box.