Strike two

[nelly1]

I really don't need this to happen again. What don't I have adjusted right, I have to believe the PC-Pro is at fault? I am running stock timing, 110 pulley, A/F gage but the part I don't understand is the adjustment. I do not see any change in A/F in first, second, and third gears no matter where I have the blinken lights. Fourth and fifth I see the A/F ratio change at 5000 rpm and above. I get very little response below 5000 rpm The A/F ratio may be 13.8 to 14.2.
This is cylinder number three on engine number two. It was cylinder number three on engine number one, both on intake side...............


Alan

[tann3r]

13.8 - 14.2 is waaaaay to lean. You are more than likely geting a lot of detonation at that AFR.

What are you current settings?

[nelly1]

Well, it doesn't seem to matter what my settings are. You know what I mean. I don't see a change in A/F until after 5000 rpm and then it will drop to 12 and below and that change is only seen in 4th & 5th.

alan

[tann3r]

Well if we dont know what your settings are its going to be difficult to diagnose possible problems.

Are you running a wideband or narrowband O2? Did you hear any knock in 1st-3rd?

Only seeing AFR changes in 4th and 5th seems to indicate that your red/blue settings may have been off, but without knowing what they were, its a complete shot in the dark.

Also you may want to have your injectors flowed/cleaned. the likely hood of losing #3 piston on 2 separate motors it pretty slim. this assumes that you put the injectors back in the same order, but a clogged/faulty injector rill cause a lean condition.

Good Luck

[nelly1]

You don't seem to understand, It does not make any difference where the settings are until I get in 4th and fifth gear and 5000 rpm and above then The numbers will change from 13.8 to under 12. I do have a wide band and the injectors are not in the same position, unless I got lucky and stuck it back in the same cylinder.

The y/b was set at 7, same with r/b
all others at 1
5th injector 2

alan

[tann3r]

Did you have this issue on your first motor? Did you try to get any help from Tom or the forum when you first noticed it?

[socal pat]

You don't seem to understand, It does not make any difference where the settings are until I get in 4th and fifth gear and 5000 rpm and above then The numbers will change from 13.8 to under 12. I do have a wide band and the injectors are not in the same position, unless I got lucky and stuck it back in the same cylinder.

The y/b was set at 7, same with r/b
all others at 1
5th injector 2

alan

Firstly, if you get into boost in ANY gear and see over 12.8 you need to STOP right there. Running 13.8 up to 5,000 rpm is deadly. Something IS wrong with your equipment. Either wiring (do you have the PNP harness?) or the card. Were you getting the blue light in boost? That's why Tom is there. Send him the card and he'll test it on another car. Also BTW I'd have the 5th up higher to start with.

The PC has no idea what gear you're in. It is looking for vacuum/boost and RPM. That r/b can be a nice tool for load change, but not that big a change. I too lost an engine by running in boost when I shouldn't have so I'm not making light or having fun with you. I have had a couple of occasions where my vacum line came off my PC or E-cool and belive me I let off instantly now. As I said if you don't get 12.5 or less the instant you go into it then don't look for a change higher up. Fix that first.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Is the vacuum/boost line properly connected to the intake manifold and to the cards?

Sounds like you are simply running off the ECU.

[nelly1]

Well that was my first and second mistake. I keep on going and didn't stop.
I had the card maxed several times and had the e-cool set to the limit in the first round.
I did see boost in the pc-pro.
Why the same cylinder?


alan

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Did it ever run right?

[nelly1]

It ran great. I did some autocross last summer with the first engine. It developed a slight high speed miss. It progressively got worse after trying to get the A/F ratio correct. The second engine also ran good until I ran it to the max trying to get the A/F right.
I do remember that I had all lights on 8 (first engine) before I got the AEM A/F thinking I would keep it rich until I new what was going on. Like I said it didn't seen to make much difference where I had it set.

alan

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

To me it sounds like there is something amiss with the boost line to the cards. If you are making 10 PSI but the cards don't see it, they will not add fuel appropriately.

[nelly1]

I'll pull the cards and send them to you. I hope you come up with an answer.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

What I was referring to was the tube from the intake manifold to the cards. I suggest tou put a vac/boost gauge as near as possible to the cards as you can and see what you get. Then send the cards back.

[gludlow]

I was messing around under my dash., and accidentally disconnected the boost line to the cards!

It's easy to see if the cards "see" the boost; as you're driving, watch the lights. They go solid when you go under boost, blinking at idle (I believe).

[nelly1]

I went through the engine and replaced pistons rings and bearings, all seals and had the head refurbished. I reused the old cams and lifters.

I started the car up sunday, started right up with a lot of lifter clatter. I let it run for quite a while, adjusted the timing and made sure there were no leaks. The clatter did not go away. I have 5w30 synthetic in it. I picked up 'some JB tune up for the lifters [for what it's worth) and drove the car 20 miles. Still no difference. Any ideas ? It sounds like this is way to common a problem with this engine but why? They were quite as a mouse before.

alan

[Mark]

Question: Since you re-used your lifters, did you keep track of where they came from and made sure that they all went back in their original location?

[nelly1]

Yes I did. I do have another set but they are from the first engine.

alan

[Mark]

I was always told that if you didn't use new, put them back in the original locations since that is where their original break-in occurred. Just thought that if you had mixed them up, they're fighting against how the original lifter got seated during the original break-in period.

[Steve in VC]

What I was referring to was the tube from the intake manifold to the cards. I suggest tou put a vac/boost gauge as near as possible to the cards as you can and see what you get. Then send the cards back.My boost gauge is connected with a "T" at the PC-Pro to make sure the cards are seeing full boost. It was also convenient being the cards are in the glove box, and the gauge under the radio.

[nelly1]

Interesting, I pulled the cams and all of the lifters were dry. I took one out and put it under oil and pumped it up until all the bubbles can out so I knew it would fill up. My question is it possible to put the head gasket on wrong? When I put the head on I am sure that it went on only one way. I have good oil pressure at least according to the gage.

alan