What's the latest

[Nigel]

There hasn't been any posts for awhile, I was wondering about the progress of the 1.6 hotside.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Dan's is still running strong and the one in Australia is running well on the Mega Squirt.

$3500 plus shipping.

[Nigel]

I want to upgrade to a SC or turbo again in the near future. Needless to say my emphasis as a daily driver is based around drivability and comfort more than out right racing. It's very important to me that the car drives nicely so I don't have to worry about Idle droop, stalling after coming to a stop, tip in lean spots during shifting, and my air conditioning has to work. I do understand that there will be an initial tuning to get things running right but beyond that I want to simply turn the key and drive. After researching thoroughly I found the FM Voodoo II with no electronics, your PC Pro and an already owned J&S (black box) to be my answer. Then I found out that you are ready to release 1.6 Hotside kit and now I'm interested in finding out more about that. Finally here are the questions:

How has Idle drop and stalling been addressed with this kit
Does the new kit use an e-cool? Only one PC Pro if I'm not mistaken?
What is the "as it comes" psi?
What would be the maximum psi that the e-cool system can handle with cooling and fuel delivery?
Will there be upgrades available like larger crank pulleys. I assume the smaller SC nose pulleys available on other kits will also work?
Would a larger set of injectors such as 1.8 injectors and maybe an RX-7 AFM be a realistic upgrade for this kit?
I would like to end up with a nice 175rwhp, can that be achieved in a reasonable way?

-Nigel

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

It will take one of the owners to tell you about smooth as a daily driver. I think Dan's runs as expected, smooth. He is making about 170WHP in Arizona heat on 91 octane fuel non-intercooled. The base kit (Dan's) makes about 10.5PSI boost and adds about 80WHP to stock. We have not tested beyond that boost/HP. That is almost double stock (90WHP) that we measured on Dan's engine.

We had idle issues to begin with but found the problem and cured it. The RPM steps up as normal when the AC is turned on and has no idle droop or stalling. The original problem turned out to be a wrong IAC hose and the restrictor in the wrong place.

The kit does use ECool and in non-intercooled. It uses one PC-Pro.

Base boost is 10.5.

If it was intercooled, I think it could manage 200WHP. I hust get nervous as to how much WHP that 1.6L can take. Remember, at 175-180, it is basically double stock already. Kind of like 220-230 on the 1.8L.

Larger crank pulleys will be available. SC pulley will be 65mm for all applicayions. As it is a 6 rib, auto tensioner belt system, I don't think there are any smaller pulleys out there. The smaller 4 rib pulleys wont work.

We did use the RX7 AFM on Dan's kit. Got it from a Pick-Pay for $28 if memory serves. I am not sure the WHP gain as it was on from the beginning. My guess is probably 5-10 WHP difference? His is also running the stock FPR but has a Walbro 255 fuel pump.

I think the 175 depends on the state of your engine? I would estimate 70-80 WHP increase. Have you dyno'd it stock?

[Nigel]

No, I haven't. It is bored 20 over though. Not sure what horsepower difference that could make, little I'm sure. I must say that your kit is very exciting. It would be great if Dan could chime in here....any photos of the install would be great.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That should make a few HP increase. Not sure how many.

There are photos of the Aussie install here. http://www.fastforwardsuperchargers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1471. It is MegaSquirt controlled and no MAF and it has a W/A IC. Other than that, they look similar.

[magnamx-5]

From what i have seen it is a fairly well done kit, straight forward install and the driveability is rather stockish from all the info/videos i have seen. While it is not the end all be all of hp on a street miata for someone looking for a peppy miata, and doesnt want to engineer a good deal of it themselves. Then FFS is certianly something you should consider.
A few questions would help you better designate wether you have more options to you.

What is done to your motor beyond the overbore? Did you do it yourself? Do you want to at some future time blow away, v8 F bodys, and older vetts? If most of these are yes then a turbo system from Begi or FM will also fit your bill, and allow for more headroom should 175 prove to be to anemic. :D

If you are thinking of swapping a RX7 afm i would get some 300 cc high impedance injectors, that coupled with the e-cool will more than cover your fuel appraoching the 200whp mark. You will also want to get a better clutch as the stock one is rather weak, the ebay 6 puck clutch is a great value for anyone sub 250 lb/ft of torque ( as it costs about as much as a stocker, but 1/2-1/3 of a more name brand clutch IE ACT etc)
Unlike Tom im not afraid of what a 1.6 motor can take i would be worried about your transmission and most definatly you weak ass stock rear end. Before i would worry about what the cast iron block will hold together with proper tunning. ( I understand his pecimisim and pramatism, becouse he is liable being the business owner and, partialy responsible for any of his information that leads you to breack something)

Anyway this is in no way a post to detract you from FFS its just something to show you some more avenues of research you can look into to make sure you buy what you realy want, and end up with that, instead of getting what you thought you wanted, and ending up wrong. GL to you man.

[Saffa]

Hi Nigel

Here's a quick comparision of the before and after dyno charts, both done on the same dyno, 700m above sealevel and results are uncorrected.

Before:
http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/pp357/saffa83/Dynorunstock.jpg

After:
http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/pp357/saffa83/Dyno04-03-09.jpg

A nice bump in power.

[magnamx-5]

FWIW a typicall dyno dynamics dyno reads numbers 15% lower than most dynojet units wich are the considered the industry standard by some.

[Nigel]

I appreciate all the info provided. I have been lurking on this forum for about 6 months watching the progress of the 1.6 Hotside. Out of frustration that it might never come to completion I was looking at turbos as the best thing to go with since my only other alternative was the Moss M45 kit.
I came to this forum not as a newby but someone who has spent the last 15 years fabricating and installing my own forced induction. I started with a Sebring SC at 6psi and eventually spun it at 12psi when everybody said it couldn't be done. I then in 2002 modified that kit to accept a 1st Gen M64 blower and tuned it via a Link to 175rwhp. After constant problems running it on a 4 rib belt with slippage and shredding, I switched to a FM2 turbo with a Tech2. Then 3 years ago I converted to a 340hp Ford 5.0 crate motor. Blowing the V8 up on the track caused me to rethink things and I have put away my extreme power grabbing days and put my car back to a stock street car to take a break. That's how I got to this point. Now it's time for a reasonable upgrade that won't have never ending tuning and constant repairs and adjustments. I have an upgraded clutch and know that my LSD has got to be replaced with a Torsen. The engine was rebuilt by an experienced race engine builder. I opted for stock internals but very well put together. So my interest in this new kit is grown from an appreciation and confidence that I have in Tom and his workmanship and Tech support. I believe he creates beautifully designed products and has taken these kits to a new level and really has sorted it out. I am very like to by one, my heart lies with the SC. Turbos are good but like you guys I like instant linear response. I would though, like to learn more about the part throttle drivability than the sheer power. When I'm driving in traffic or just on a leisurely drive through the country with my wife I want to love it just as much as when I mashing the throttle. Thus the probing questions about some of the finer issues of drivability. Constant fiddling is for the young and I'm getting to old for that. Any feed back is appreciated.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I think the part throttle driving is the part you will like the most. It will drive in traffic like a stock Miata. The only way you know when you are going ina and out of boost is to look at the boost gauge.

As Magnamx-5 was trying to point out, if you want great driveability and double stock power, my kit is the way to go. If you want sheer power and don't care how poorly it drives, get a turbo. I couldn't have said it any better. ;)