Resetting the cards

[Godless Commie]

Five questions:

* Is it possible to reset any or all of the cards (PcPro, ECool, Timing) rather than manually taking all the setting to zero?

* If the cards are resettable, do they revert back to zero, or the initial FFS settings?

* My cards are about 2 years old. Do the latest instructions apply to me, or would I have to get the cards reflashed in order to have the latest adjustments? (Tom had programmed the cards for a 99 model year around Christmas 08, after I bought them from Jim, who has an '01.)

* Is the "accelerator pump" feature available on older cards such as mine?

* What would be a ballpark retard number for starters for a 130/65 combo when using 97 octane gas (should be 92-93 equivalent for the states)?

I am scheduled to get on the dyno for tuning on Monday or Tuesday. Just talked to my friend, he told me since I paid for the tuning the first time around, he will not charge me again till the car is tuned right.. So, I will not have to "roadtune" it myself.
The thing is, I have intermittent knock. I am driving very carefully these days, with one eye on the boost gauge, not even allowing the gauge to leave the vacuum zone!

Thanks a lot for your patience and answers..

[FormerDatsun510Man]

The default setting on the cards is 4 lights on all the settings except for the solid yellow and red which is set to 0. That is the only thing to "reset" to. The cards start with the default settings when they are reflashed. If you want to return to the default settings later after having changed them, you must manually do so.

On the main PC Pro, if you have the Green-Blue then you have the accelerator pump. The light settings are as follows on the Main Card:

G : fuel trim 0-3000rpm
Y : fuel trim 3000-5000rpm
R : fuel trim 5000+rpm
G-B : accelerator pump
Y-B : main fuel
R-B : load adjust


For the E-Cool card the light settings are:

G, Y, R: no function
G-B : E-Cool fuel

In all cases, more lights means more fuel.


For the timing card:

G: timing retard 0-3000rpm
Y: timing retard 3000-5000rpm
R: timing retard 5000+rpm

The number of lights means the number of degrees of retard.


If your card was reflashed last year, you don't have the latest reflash.

With a 130mm pulley I recommend you start with 4 deg of timing retard from 3000+rpm. Run 2 deg of timing retard from 0-3000rpm. Turn the green-blue on the Main Card to around 6 lights. Run the E-Cool card at 4 lights. Adjust the G, Y, R and Y-B lights on the Main card so as to maintain the smooth 11.5-12:1 a/f ratio you can.

The results of all this should put you somewhere around 220rwhp on a Dynojet (200rwhp on a Mustang load type dyno).

Bill

[rins]

Bill,
I flashed my pc-pro card with new firmware which you sent me. I notice that lights turn from green to yellow at 4000rpm and yellow to red at 5500rpm. So are those zones correct or is it still 0-3000,3000-5000,5000+ ?