Install tricks & tips ?

[socal pat]

I'll be starting the project tonight and any input from those who have done this would be really welcome. For example, would you remove the splash pan? Any "secret" angles and wrench attatchments to get to the lower intake manifold bolts?. Well, you get the idea. This would really help me, as well as those who will be doing the instal in the future. Thanks!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

The instructions are on a CD in the kit with lots of pictures and helpful steps. The splash pan does need to come off. The rear two nuts on the bottom of the manifold are the hardest part of the install. They only take a couple minutes but are hard to reach.

[99mx5]

Make sure front of car is on ramps. :)

I removed/replaced the lower rear intake manifold nuts on the bottom by using an open end wrench from behind the starter.

[Banshee]

There's about 28 pages on the coldside forum. But in summary, use the crowfoot often. Its possible to do the install without tilting the alternator (I did it) but it was a PITA. Also the bolt the hold the ERG pipe to the back of the engine was a PITA, I could not remove it, but was able to install the kit anyways.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Personally, in the long run, I think removing the alternator is worth the time it takes.

While it is off, you could take an inch off the end of that LOOOONG adjusting bolt. When installing the alternator, the end of that bolt just hits the manifold. After the alternator is adjusted, that problem goes away as the bolt is screwed away from the alternator but it is still several inches longer than it needs to be. Even cutting a 1/2" off is helpful. Not necessary but helpful.

[Banshee]

I would of loved to take off the alternator, but I could not physically budge the pivot bolt. No air tools, no lift. Also remove the oil filter. You may want to do an oil filter relocation while you're at it.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That brings up another good point. If you do loosen the pivot bolt or remove it and the alternator all together. make sure it is tight when you put it back. It is the ground return for the alternator. It was not tight on Jim Thompsons car and the car couldn't make power and had ping and the lights would dim under boost, etc. Tightened that bolt and all of his problems went away.

[socal pat]

OK, a little update on my install... If at all possible get the alternator out. Also removing the oil filter makes getting at the rear two intake manifold bolts much easier. I was almost going to get them finger tight and drive to a shop to tighten them after the install. I didn't have the right wrench so I didn't loosen the EGR pipe-to-exhaust manifold- fitting. I suppose it could make life easier, but not critical. Also, get the vacuum hoses on the barbs of the throttle body adaptor and throttle body BEFORE you attatch them to the SC. Just make them an inch or two longer than you will need them and them trim any excess when you attatch to the IAC adaptor barbs.

Tonight it's on to the Electronics!!!! :roll:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I will be updating the instructions with a couple of the items that popped up with Pat's install and send them out to the others.

I noticed that I didn't write the one 'adjustment' you will need to do and that is idle adjust. My suggestion is to try and drive it for a day or so with engine starts and stops even if it hangs or tries to die. Then, after the ECU has had a chance to learn, make this adjustment. With the engine nicely warmed up, use the blue idle adjust allen wrench that was included with the kit and unplug and plug the IAC valve connector. Adjust the idle screw (throttle plate stop screw) on the BTB so there is no change in idle with the IAC connector plugged in or disconnected. You might need to drive it another day or so and do this a second time. Then you will not need to do it again.

I will get the revisions out today. Remember too, the instructions are in the kit on the included CD. The pictures are large but, the CD allows you to make them even larger if you need to see some fine point.

[99mx5]

IMPORTANT!!

Make sure there is upward tension on the IM brace, and be sure to check all fasteners after the first couple hundred miles. I found that the brace can come loose and cause vibration and that other bolts can come loose.

[socal pat]

Good point 99MX5. As you get closer and closer to completion it can be hard to remember to check and double check. I'm ready to just strap the thing on with duct tape and let 'er rip. :P

[Steve]

Pat, where in So Cal are you? I would like to come by and take a look at your car when you have some time. I'm in the city of Orange.

[socal pat]

Hey Steve, I'm in the Sun City/Temecula area, but I guarantee I'll be up for a drive when I get this thing on!! I'll keep you posted.

[socal pat]

I'd like to add.. be sure to zip tie (securely) the hard plastic spaghetti line from the powercard to it's fitting on the SC intake manifold. It does like to pop off.

[sinuous]

Was that the lack of power issue you were having?

Jared.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I don't think he was having a power loss. He said it ran fine as soon as the fuel kicked in. The problem was mine. I used the wrong file to program the 99/00 SS modules I shipped. The 01-05 modules used the correct file so they do not have the problem. I will be at his work in about an hour to program the correct map file and all will be well.

To clarify, I had two files. One that was developed on the dyno with a few dozen runs that took the fuel from 5 PSI and up and 2500 RPM and up. We always launch at around 2500 and the FFS system always makes 5PSI plus instantly with the proper pulley. Then I did the idle to 2500 numbers and the vacuum to 5 PSI numbers on the street where the transitions could be easily ironed out with no problem breaking any speed laws. To make a long story longer, I programmed the dyno chart in the SS so it had no 5th injector fuel from idle to 2500 RPM and from vacuum to 5PSI. That makes it transition badly. After he put his foot in it and it hit 2500 or crossed 5PSI, it ran just fine.

In an hour or so, it will run just fine under all circumstances just like a 200WHP coldside should. :)

Pat didn't have access to a laptop so I drove over to LA to do it for him. As most of you know, it wasn't hard for me to make that decision as I like to drive my Miata. :)

[socal pat]

Yes, tom did come ALL THE WAY out here!!!!! While we were looking at my problem Tom diagnosed a fault in my JRPC/SST ground. The car now pulls like a train.

I'll be posting a FULL report on my FFSC experience tonight on Miata.net in the Forced Induction section.
THANK YOU TOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Denada. The grin was all the thanks I needed. ;)

BTW, the GPS took me 79, 371, etc to Indio. Nice ride. Thanks.

[Steve]

Tom, are you still out here?

Call me when you get a chance 714-225-3997.

Steve

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Home already. I will have to make a trip out to see you with the '05. Maybe soon. :)

In the meantime see if you can beg a ride in Pat's 99.

[socal pat]

I would like to add a couple items now that I have finally completed the "tidying up" of the final details.

When you are opening the wire bundles be VERY careful not to nick any of the wires. :oops: This can cause one to ground out even after you have carefully taped them back together and might fry a circuit in the ECU :roll:

Secondly. If you are supercharging a car with higher mileage like Lyle, and now me...take a good hard look at your CAT(s) or you might get a surprise on the Dyno. I had an almost identical result as Lyle. Mid 170's then drop the CAT and right up to 190 and in my case was still left with a second cat holding my results back (California car). I'm confident I'll end up closer to 200 than 190 with those CATs out of the way.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Thought this was a needed forum. :)

http://www.fastforwardsuperchargers.com/miata-forum/install-tips-vf8.html

[DWelch]

blue idle adjust allen wrench

I bought mine already installed in a car. I don't have a "blue idle adjust allen wrench". OR a cd... or anything else that doesn't come on this website. :oops:

What size is the blue idle adjust allen wrench? OH, and the location of the "throttle plate stop screw" would be appreciated too. :surrender:

On the 3D drawing, I am guessing it is being called the "socket set screw cone point_AM-1"?

Much better than naming it "idle adjustment screw". :tongue: :devil:

[Kyp J]

I bought mine already installed in a car. I don't have a "blue idle adjust allen wrench". OR a cd... or anything else that doesn't come on this website. :oops:

What size is the blue idle adjust allen wrench? OH, and the location of the "throttle plate stop screw" would be appreciated too. :surrender:

On the 3D drawing, I am guessing it is being called the "socket set screw cone point_AM-1"?

Much better than naming it "idle adjustment screw". :tongue: :devil:


The blue one is 3mm. Tom cut them off on the short end too short IMO and the long end is too long and hits stuff. My blue one is cut off at about 5mm measured from the back of the long part to the face of the cut. I would try 7mm and instead of a 10 cm wrench, I would use a 6 cm one. I use a hemostat to hold it because it is usually too hot in that area and I jump and drop the wrench when I burn my self.

[Scuba Steve]

I use a hemostat to hold it because it is usually too hot in that area .

WHen I was much younger, I used to use a hemostat to hold them when they got too hot, but it had nothing to do with forced induction. Oh wait, maybe it did .:stuart:

[Serpico]

...................:)