My 10AE MX-5

[rins]

Hi,
I’ve been here about year and now finally got some time to take pictures of my car :)

http://www.miata.fi/blog/wp-content/gallery/10ae/auto1.jpg
http://www.miata.fi/e107_plugins/autogallery/Gallery/NB(1998-2005)%20-korisarja/Samsan%2010AE/pv_ig.jpg

It's 1999 10th Anniversary model (number 6986 / 7500) and has 50K miles on it. I bought it from Hamburg, Germany about 1,5 years ago. I drive on track often and that's why I choose 10AE as it has 6-speed and torsen diff. I knew that Tom also has 10AE so that was one reason more to choose this model. :)

This is Euro -model and its separates from US –models by having:
-Better intake cam. BP5A-12-420 which is same as ‘04 MSM has.
-Better exhaust. Basically same exhaust all ’01+ models in US have
-Return –type fuel system. FPR is end of the fuel rail which is better. IMO
-3.636 rear ratio
-All models came without side-skirts. Shame because I really like them


http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/ffskone.jpg

I did have terrible engine failure last year. My FPR didn’t work right and due that I was running lean and detonation broke one of my cylinders. I now have rebuild my engine with ’01 pistons (+0.5mm 10.0:1) and only running 8PSI boost until I got my new dual feed fuel rail + 280cc injectors installed. To avoid future problems I installed Begi RRFPR with Knock-light,Boost,AFR,Oil-Temp and Fuel-pressure gauges.

http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/ffsmittarit.jpg
It easily goes 240km/h. Lucky I haven’t got any tickets yet ;)

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

One more double spoke and you would have my wheels as well. :)

Looks great.

[rins]

Yeah you notice those ;) They are 16x7 Rota Subzero, basically fake Enkei’s . It doesn’t matter me because they only weight 6.4Kg (14.1 lbs). I had my original 10AE as well...

[FormerDatsun510Man]

That is a neat strut you have bolted to the side/front of the engine. Do you notice it helping engine rock?

Bill

[rins]

Yeah I did build it myself. I wasn’t able to use first gear before that. My engine is moving too much without it. If you look closely that place near fifth injector you notice that it has hit chassis. I had to bend that section with hammer.

I get some stiffer engine mounts when it’s time to change the clutch…


btw. That clip which locks the fifth injector to that L –shaped coupler has broken. Is there any place to get new one?

[rins]

Well its engine rebuild -time again :frown:

I raise the boost from 7PSI to 12PSI and start notice pinging on 5th and 6th gears every time around 5K rpm. I didn’t hear anything by ear so I went to 500mile trip. Got home, did compression test and it didn’t look good. It show’s 80-100PSI on cylinders 1-3. So probably rings are gone/broken. :no:
I have ’01 pistons and head is shaved so that’s put me around 10.2-10.5:1 comp.ratio. There was no way I would eliminate that ping on 12PSI boost.
-I try reduce ignition on powercard didn’t help at all.
-E-cool I test to set up to 8. Didn’t do any good
-I was running on 100RON octane gas (Shell V-Power)
-AFR was healthy 11.5 whole time. Richening up the mixture didn’t help.

Good news is that I already found ’95 bottom end for 200 euro. That would give me approx. 9.0:1 comp. ratio. :seeya:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Did you test to see if 5th injector was working? Pull the electrical plug and compare with and without at ~5000 RPM. Should be 1 to 1.5 A/F points leaner without 5th injector.

On an 01-05 head, why did you shave the head? Was that before you had the blower? 10.5 compression is a PITA for boost. That's what makes it hard for the NC.

[rins]

Yes. I did test it. 1.5 A/F point was the difference so the e-cool was working!

Last year I burnt my #1 cylinder by running lean. We shave the head just to be sure it’s straight. I don’t know how much they shave but I think comp.ratio is something between 10.2-10.5:1 with those ’01 pistons.

In my case 12PSI just wasn’t possible with e-cool. Don’t know if water/meth –injection had kill the pinging. Anyway I change to that ’95 bottom end and I’m sure it is going to be more knock resistance than my current engine. :2guns:

[rins]

Finally got time to take part that broken engine

This is what you get with high comp. pistons (2001 Miata pistons)
http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/bp/IMAG0213.jpg
yep those are my piston rings

pistons #2 and #3:
http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/bp/IMAG0203.jpg
and #1 http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/bp/IMAG0204.jpg
lot's of carbon there but luckily no holes

and there's a new '95 block (with 8.8:1 pistons) waiting :)
http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/bp/IMAG0209.jpg

[oldtimer02]

I'm starting with my '02 rebuild. 61K miles. Same problem low compression cyl 1-135 2-125 3-125 4-80. The head is off but the block is still in the car. Now I know what I may find!
The valves & valve clearance doesn't look bad. Pistons look like new from the top.
I am going with JE +.040 9:1 pistons, Eagle rods, balance. Heads will get a light port, polish & intake valve relief with new springs.

Maybe a 130 pulley LOL ;-)

[rins]

Yeah it’s pretty clear that 2001+ engines won’t handle more than 7psi boost without pinging. E-Cool is great but it cannot do miracles. I’m kind a surprise how many miles that motor was able to take before it was blowing through pistons

Those 2001 pistons were brand new. Take about 8000km me to understand that high-comp pistons are bad choice for FI :rolleyes:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Oldtimer, are there holes in your pistons?

[oldtimer02]

no holes, but on #4 piston the wall is lightly scratched (not scored though), I can see
where there was some detonation at one of the intake valve reliefs. You have to look real close to see it.
I'll know better when I get it torn down. John Pescatrice will be bringing his hoist & spare eng stand Thursday.

At a friends Machine shop: Hot tank, deck, bore & hone to fit pistons, assemble rods/pistons, measure all bearing bores & crank, balance = $350. I think that is a very good deal, he specializes in building race engines for the drag & roundy round guys around here.
I am going to replace valve springs, mild port, polish, relieve intake valves & valve job.

This engine should be capable of big HP numbers. I figure that by the time I'm done in two weeks that Bill will be able to show me how to get that 300 HP he is searching for! ;-)

[GO MAN GO]

Yeah it’s pretty clear that 2001+ engines won’t handle more than 7psi boost without pinging.
------------------
WHAT ????????

[rins]

Yeah it’s pretty clear that 2001+ engines won’t handle more than 7psi boost without pinging.
------------------
WHAT ????????

I don’t know which kind of race fuel you guys use but 100RON octane didn’t get me past 7PSI :frown:

[rins]

Ok new season with new motor. Rebuilt '94 engine (8.8:1 comp) and my old refurbished 99 head.

http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/bp/uus_kone_valmiina.jpg

I also change motor mounts to mazda competition mounts and changed stock clutch to FM level1 clutch set :yes:
http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/bp/uus_setti_valmiina.jpg

These 8.8:1 pistons really take boost much better than previous 10:5:1 pistons. Knocklite stays quiet now :driving:

[rins]

Here's a couple new pictures:

http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/fsssc/IMG_5910.jpg

http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/fsssc/IMG_5915.jpg

65x125mm pulley (14.5-15 psi)
'94 bottom end with 8.8:1 pistons
'99 stock head
Adaptronic e420c ECU
DeatschWerks 800cc injectors
Aquamist WI. 68cc/min pre-SC & 204cc/min post-SC
I.L.Motorsport 50mm Radiator

[compuatic]

did the knocklite detect the pinging you had before or no? i'm considering buying one and am wondering if they are reliable.

[rins]

did the knocklite detect the pinging you had before or no? i'm considering buying one and am wondering if they are reliable.

Yes knocklite is effective detecting ping but I don’t recommend tuning your car just using that. It’s better to make yourself detcans and tune timing with that. Knocklite is good to have as backup so you notice if something goes wrong (clogged 5th injector etc..)