2001 Hotside A/A IC 115/65mm = 187whp

[Serpico]

Here's a copy of my most recent dyno run 7/12
I'd like to get the air/fuel ratio to a safer level and am interested in trying the new fueling card and E-Cool (if needed).

Here's my setup:

2001SE ( 56,000 miles) approx. 600 boosted miles
MP62 Hotside
STB
A/A Intercooler
115/65mm pulleys
VVT Tweak
ELF (P3 set at 10)
Factory header, stock midpipe, roadster sport muffler
93 octane ( 1 can of race formula octane booster per tank just to be safe )

I do not hear any pinging, but I'm 42 and my ears aint what they used to be...

I do plan on getting the Roadster Sport Midpipe, but I will wait until I get the fuel ratio straightened out.

Thanks in advance for any advice/help.

S.
http://upload4.postimage.org/724334/JulyDyno.jpg (http://upload4.postimage.org/724334/photo_hosting.html)

[Serpico]

I forgot to add that since that dyno run, I added a Walbro 255 in an attempt to richen the mixture a little.

[Banshee]

The torque looks great, but dies out in the upper rpm. I really think that all you need is a Bigger TB, and all will be well. You're running a A/A intercooler right?

With a 115mm pulley, I think you'll also need an additional injector to supplement fuel. The stock injectors are only good for about 200 whp.

[Serpico]

not sure if I want to try the BTB after all the horror stories I've heard about idle problems.

I'm really hoping that I'll be able to just swap the elf for the new powercard and be able to get a little more out of the stock injectors.

But I guess I'll do what it takes to get my A/F around 12-12.5:1

The new powercard sounds promising and I'm not sure if the Elf+ is going to happen anytime in the near future.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Ask Chuck about idle problems. I think it is a matter of how it is done that matters. Chucks 99 with ecool and the BTB abd the 6 rib auto-tensioner idles just fine. I also found that avoiding the MAC TB was an asset. They tend to be 'sticky'.

I'm curious if either your SC pulley or crank pulley are unanodized? Bare aluminum. With Chuck's, we found the bad pulleys were stopping us from ever stopping belt slippage. Showed up mostly at high RPM. It appears that BR's supplier was not cutting them properly. I think James said recently on mnet that they found a new supplier for the pullys. That should help the quality but those pulleys won't be around anytime soon.

Your A/F looks to be around 14:1 if I read that correctly. That is pretty lean.

[Serpico]

I pulleys do not appear to be anodized. I also have the auto-tensioner and according to my dyno , I'm making about 8 pounds of boost at redline, which is supposed to be about right. There is supposed to be about a 1.5lb drop in boost across the A/A Intercooler.

I am not hearing any pinging nor did the dyno operator.http://upload4.postimage.org/724816/NevertoooldtoBling.jpg (http://upload4.postimage.org/724816/photo_hosting.html)

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I would think a 115/65 ratio should be well above 10PSI even with the A/A. That ratio on a coldside is around 13 PSI. The small TB is adding to the loss but I'll bet your belt is slipping. The belt should pop off pretty easy with the AT. Pop it off and take a look with a magnifying glass at the ribs.

It should look like the one on the left. If it looks more like the one on the right, that is your problem. If you get the belt tight enough not to slip on a pulley like that, you are putting a LOT of stress on the crank.

http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers.com/PulleyWear/Pulley1.jpg

[Serpico]

Thanks for the info Tom, but if my belt IS slipping and I correct it, there is no way I'll be able to run that much boost (nor do I want to) with my current fueling condition...... :cry:

The whole thing has made me want to take up drinking again.... :wink:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Good thing I never need a reason to drink. ;)

let me know if there is anything I can do to help. Pulleys, BTB kits, E-Cool, etc. We can make it run the way it should. With that 115mm pulley, you should be well over 200WHP.

[Serpico]

I guess what I'm wanting to know is, will the new powercard be able to deliver more fuel than the elf is capable of?

If not, how much more will it cost to add a 5th injector in addition to the powercard pro?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I think the ELF can turn the main injectors on as much as possible. With the 01-05, the problem has been the ability to turn them down a bit. The are about 12-15% larger than 94-00 injectors and the cards all seem to want to turn them on the same amount causing the rich condition. The ability for the PC-Pro to drive the 5th injector is part of the module and the added cost is $00.00. :)

[Serpico]

Thanks for the quick answers Tom!

Since the cost of the SS w/ an injector is around $399 , I think I'll try the new powercard/extra injector (if the price is right) when it's ready.

Please put me on the waiting list .

Overall, I'm happy with my kit. I don't hear any pinging and the power feels really good. I'd just like to have a little more adjustment with the A/F mixture and not have to have my fueling card set on maximum just to get a marginal ratio.

Thanks again for your time!

[Serpico]

First run was interesting....A/F was below 10:1 and heading south. 167whp
By the eleventh run I had a nice flat 12.3:1 and 187whp. Elf is set on 8 to give me a little room to tweak just in case I hear some pinging on a hot day. I'm in Massachusetts , so that means next July or August.... :wink:

I kept taking away 20-30% fuel above 5000rps and below 3500rpms until I got the flatest line I could. The Elf still runs very rich below 2500rpms.

I did take a pre-intercooler boost reading and I'm making a hair over 10psi. Post reading is a little over 8.5psi. So, there's about a 1.5lb drop across the A/A IC.

So I'm back to where I was horsepower wise except now I'm running straight 93 octane and no pinging as opposed to a 50/50 mix of 93&100 and slight pinging.

BTB is next on my list now that I have plenty of fuel.

Thanks again for the E-Cool Tom!

http://upload4.postimage.org/1093108/Sept9thDyno.jpg (http://upload4.postimage.org/1093108/photo_hosting.html)

[chuckerants]

Sounds like you can go up at least another pulley size. :D

[Serpico]

Hey Chuck,

What size pulley are you running now and how much boost does it make without the IC in the way?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

BTB and you will be 200 WHP. ;) You are welcome for the E-Cool. I'd like to take credit for the engineering/design and function but I know it was just dumb luck. ;)

[Serpico]

Tom,

Did you say that I can expect about 1.5psi more with the BTB?
Does the AIC/TPS mount to the BTB or are they relocated?

I guess what I'm getting at is how difficult is the swap? And does it require fiddling with the TPS to get things running right?

My car is idling really well and I'd hate to upset it.

But 10-15 more horsepower sure would be nice too.
I really felt it when I went from 174-187. So 187-200 would be sweet!!!!

[Serpico]

oops... I meant IAC rather than AIC in the above.

I only served six years in the military.

[chuckerants]

We didn't have to do anything with the TPS. I just swapped in the new TPS adapter and we were good to go.

With the BTB, you may need to adjust the idle in which case yes you will need to do some minor fiddling with the IAC. This basically means you adjust the idle crew, unplug the IAC, plug it back in and drive it for a few days and repeat if necessary.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I would guess about 1-1.5 PSI and 10-15 WHP. The TPS mounts to the BTB. The IAC valve gets relocated to the firewall. You will have to make one or two idle adjustments as the ECU learns the new stuff.

It is all bolt on. 1-2 hours max.