PC Pro Programming Updates

[FormerDatsun510Man]

This thread is for the latest flash updates for the PC Pro. To install these updates you must have a PC Pro Programmer. Each file corresponds to a single PC Pro device. They are hex files and must be unzipped first before flashing to the PC Pro. The files are as follows:

Bill_Main - File for the PC Pro Main card. This file uses a boost range of 0-12psi for the fuel (above 12psi the same amount of fuel is added), includes accelerator pump and uses the voltage A for the O2 clamp and voltage B for the TPS clamp. For wiring, please refer to the PC Pro instructions for your model year Miata. Basically, only connect the voltage A wires if you have a 1st gen Miata.
The recommended settings are:
format: G - Y - R -- GB - YB - RB
'94-'97: 4 - 0 - 0 -- 4 - 5.5 - 6
'99-'00: 4 - 0 - 0 -- 4 - 4 - 4
'01-'05: 0 - 0 - 0 -- 4 - 4 - 4

Bill_EC - File for the PC Pro E-Cool card. This file uses a boost range of 0-15psi (above 15psi the same amount of fuel is added) for adding fuel via the 5th injector.
The recommended settings are:
format: GB
'94-'97: 5
'99-'05: 4

Bill_TC - File for the PC Pro Timing card. This file retards timing 0-8 deg in three rpm ranges (0-3000, 3000-5000, 5000+ rpm)
The recommended settings are:
format: G - Y - R
'94-'05: 0 - 1.5 - 2.5
note: add an additional degree in each zone per 5mm main crank pulley size increase over 115mm for '94-'97, 110mm for '99-'00 and 105mm for '01-'05

[FormerDatsun510Man]

And this is the PC Pro Main Card file for setups that do not use a 5th injector. The only difference with this file is that it adds fuel in the boost range of 0-8psi. Above 8psi the same amount of fuel is added as at 8psi. The purpose of this is so that the amount of fuel added per psi on the main injectors is a lot higher and also that typically this pertains to setups limited to about 170-180rwhp or about 8psi.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

And also here is the file for larger injectors which has a larger range for the main fuel adjustment. Whereas all of the Bill_Main files allow one to run the injectors at the max allowable duty cycle if the YB is set to 8 lights (100%), if set even to 0 lights they still have a minimum fuel addition of about 30% over what the stock ECU is adding. Bill_Main_FullRange differs in that it allows a complete range of fuel addition over stock of 0-100% with the YB setting range of 0 to 8 lights. The drawback? Since the range is larger the adjustment is a bit coarser. The standard Bill_Main is recommended unless one is running larger injectors.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Here are the two installation files for the PC Pro programmer. Gen3codersetup.exe is the installation for the program that allows the programmer to flash the cards. Drivers.exe installs the drivers needed (works on both Vista and XP) for the programmer to work. Note that if you have Vista you need to run the gen3 program in XP compatible mode.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Well, have an update already :). Never fear, what I did was simply preset the default light settings that I described above for each model year range. In other words, the functionality hasn't changed a bit, I simply have it so as soon as you flash the correct model year range for your Miata, the lights will already be at the presets that we have determined works best. This single zip file has all of the files.

Note: Bill_Main is for setups that run a 5th injector. Bill_Main_8psi is for setups that do not run the 5th injector.

Hard to believe all of those hours and hours of hard earned dyno time amounts to 44k :biggrin:

Bill

[FormerDatsun510Man]

And here are the instructions for the PC Pro programmer.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Here is an update for '90-93 Miatas. I have attached the wiring pinout and also have the files for both.

Bill

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Here is an update I have made for the Timing Card. It functions the same as before except now there is the G-B zone which pulls timing as the a function of boost. At 8 lights, the maximum setting it pulls 1 deg per psi.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Here is an update for the Main Card file for the '01-'05. We have now removed the TPS clamp. Additionally, it is IMPERATIVE that the solid lights G, Y, and R are all set to 0. The '01-'05 stock ECU doesn't like us trying to add much fuel below 3500rpm so I suggest allowing it to run 13:1 up to 3500rpm, after which it should drop to 12:1 and richen up to about 11.5:1 from 5000rpm on up. Leave the AP (G-B) at 4 lights. The A/F curve should be adjusted solely by the Y-B and R-B lights. Adjust the Y-B so that you see no richer than 11:1 at 5000rpm. Then adjust the R-B so that it doesn't lean out more than 11.5:1 by 7000rpm.

Also, after testing quite a few Miatas out here, even with the standard 105mm pulley I recommend a Walbro 190 fuel pump. The stock fuel pump is at its limits. In every case, when replacing the stock fuel pump the A/F richened up at 5000+rpm with no changes in the card settings. This indicates the fuel pressure was dropping off with the stock fuel pump. In one case, the fuel leaned out enough at high rpm that the car would ping no matter how high I turned up the card settings. With the fuel pump replaced with the Walbro 190, this problem went away and we had plenty of fuel up top. That 6500-7000rpm fuel especially depends on having a sufficiently strong fuel pump.

These default settings on the Main Card will cause the car to run a little rich with a Walbro fuel pump, but are about right with the stock fuel pump. With the Walbro, I determined the Y-B needs to be at 3 lights.

Bill

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Major update. We have now tested on a '96, my '00, '01 and '02 models and have found that we no longer need TPS nor O2 voltage clamps! No more mucking with the ECU! The key is adding just the right amount of fuel at low to mid rpm so that the ECU stays happy. As a result, I have done some pretty major changes with the programming for the Main Card. The fuel trims have been removed as they are redundant when the fuel curve is properly set in the first place. Additionally, I have found that some tuners used the fuel trims incorrectly which would make the engine run ok in one case (i.e. WOT) but not correctly in the transitions. In a nutshell, I think we had too many variables in the past versions of the card. Also, the Accelerator Pump is no longer an adjustable parameter. It still works, it is just that I have found there is no need for adjustment. The default setting has worked on every Miata I have tested to date. Thus, I have used the Green-Blue as a third parameter in adjusting the fuel curve optimally, which I think is much more useful. The instructions are attached.

The new PC Pro files are also attached. I now have a standardized way of naming the files so that I think it will be much easier for everyone to stay on top of what version file they are running. For all of you with programmers, I recommend giving these files a try. Like the instructions state, you don't have to remove the wires from outputs "A" or "B" on the card... the reprogramming takes care of disabling the O2 and TPS clamps and allowing the signal from the sensor to simply pass through the PC Pro as if it weren't there.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Attached is my next update. The Timing Card and ECool files are the same (ver001) as the previous post, however the Main Card file has been slightly revised. The Main Card file now uses Gen 3.25 code (as opposed to 3.00 code), which is the latest code that is available for the PC Pro hardware. What is the improvement? Well, it works the same except that now it incorporates a percentage function in all of its fuel calculations. This percentage is relative to whatever the stock injector duty cycle is. So the amount of fuel that the PC Pro Main card adds is now a percent per psi of boost relative to what the stock ECU does. This means that it thus automatically adjusts for changes in weather conditions and engine conditions in coordination with the stock ECU. The function of the lights is exactly as explained in the previous post here regarding Version 001.

Please note that the default settings are on the rich side. I highly recommend using a wideband to adjust your Air/Fuel ratio to the mid 11:1 range.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Please note that regarding ver001 and ver002 updates above that these files will work with larger injectors. The reason is that the Y-B and R-B settings on the Main Card have a full range from 0 to 100% extra fuel. Thus you guys running larger injectors that only need a small amount of extra fuel added to the stock duty cycle will find these files work great, just adjust them to lower values than the default settings. I would start by reducing Y-B until the low and midrange fuel come in line.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

For you guys running the 1.6 cars attached are PC Pro updates for them. The main card file includes E-Cool since they run the main injectors in batch mode and we are thus able to run both the Main and E-Cool injectors on one card. The Timing Card is a little different than the other cars. I will post instructions when I get a chance, but the short of it is that only channel 1 is used and it is hooked up with the crank angle sensor wire rather than the coil pack wires. We intercept the CAS before it goes to the ECU. So channel 1 input wire goes TO the CAS and channel 1 output goes to the ECU for the CAS. I have also attached the pinout for the 1.6 which includes the terminal for the CAS labeled. Like the 1.8 Miatas, I no longer see any need for O2 nor TPS clamps on the 1.6.

The settings are as follows:

Main Card:

G, Y and R: disabled (but visible as always)
G-B: E-Cool (only applicable for those with channel 0 hooked up to 1 or 2 extra injectors)
Y-B: Main Injectors Boost fuel
R-B: Main Injectors High Rpm fuel


Timing Card:

Same as for 1.8 Timing Card

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Attached is the file for the 1.6 Hotside. It is for the main injectors only and uses the same instructions as I have attached on post #10.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Another update:

All of the updates here have to do with the default settings on the cards. The functionality has not changed since the last update. Specifically:

1) Timing Card - ver002 - the default setting is G-B at 6 lights. I have found this to be a safe setting in all cases tested on 91 octane. For those with 93 octane, likely 3 or 4 lights is the ideal setting. For '01-'05, on 93 octane, likely 4-5 lights is the ideal setting. It may sacrifice 5-10hp from the absolute maximum, but I 'd rather be safe for the worst case.

2) E-Cool - ver002 - this has a default setting for G-B of 3.5 lights. This is specifically the best setting when used with the new dual injector setup. For those running the single injector (both hotsides and coldsides) ver001 is the one to use which has the default setting for G-B at 4 lights. Be forewarned, that those with dual injector setups, the E-Cool setting is VERY sensitive. 1/2 light changes the AF ratio 1/2 point. I strongly suggest leaving it at 3.5 lights for those setups.

3) Main - ver003 - for all of the Coldsides running the new dual injector setup. The only change is that R-B has been reduced from 6 lights to 3 lights. This gives the perfect a/f mixture and best safe power. So that means the defaults settings are now 4-6-3 (G-B, Y-B, R-B). For the Hotside files nothing has changed because they don't run the dual injector setup. One should see 11.5:1 with the correct Main and EC files selected and if everything is running right.

I have attached the latest files and also a txt file that explains it all.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Here is the next PC Pro update. Remember, this thread is where you get your latest PC Pro flash updates. Just check the last post and that is the latest revision available. This update concerns the Main Card. However, to keep things simple and complete I have included all the latest files (Timing Card, E-Cool and Main Card) and they are all designated as ver004. This update concerns some problems we had with some customer cars that would experience a random miss at idle. Problem solved :). All the card settings are the same as before so no fueling adjustments need to be made. The number of files is streamlined too in this update. I found I was using the same settings on all '94-'05 for example, thus I have the main card flash for that entire year range rather than separate files for '94-'97, '99-'00 and '01-'05. Also there is only one E-Cool file. The idea is that E-Cool is used on the Coldside and all Coldside kits sold now use the dual injector setup so that is the setting it is set for. If you are running a single extra injector setup simply move the G-B on the E-Cool card from 3.5 lights to 4 lights and you are done.

One other note, all of these files use the new account name. Those of you with PC Pro Programmers should have this latest account name and password.

Also, I suggest that those of you that are regularly flashing cards favorite this page.

Bill