99 FFS coldside dyno

[TokenIndian]

Had my car dyno'd today...don't have a graph for you guys just yet since the shops printer was not working right. I'll have them soon...

Dyno'd on a Dynojet 224xLC:

Cobalt header
Roadster Sport catted midpipe
Enthuza Borla NB speeder
FFS coldside 95mm crank pulley/65mm nose

161whp/129wtq

The one troubling thing is that I think i might be running too rich. At the end of the run (ran to 7200rpm) the A/F was 10.7:1...is this too rich? I requested a printout of the A/F ratio through the rev range.

The power never dropped off no matter how high we revved the engine...makes me wonder if we could benefit from a few more revs...8000rpm anyone?? :yes:

[FormerDatsun510Man]

161rwhp on a load type dyno (Dynojet 224 is an eddy current type) isn't far off from what I would expect with a 95mm pulley. I think you have 5-10rwhp more in it though. I think the key is likely the 10.7:1 AF ratio. Lean it out to about 11.5:1 and I am pretty certain you would have made close to 170rwhp on that dyno. 170rwhp on a Dynojet 224 is equivalent to approximately 180rwhp on a Dynojet 248 (inertial), which is what our numbers are published based on. Post the chart when you get a chance and I could give you some recommended settings for your PC Pro.

If you don't have one already, a wideband is a GREAT tool to have. You can get an AEM wideband gauge for under $200 now. For that price, and the information it gives you, I consider it to be something that you shouldn't be without :).

[TokenIndian]

161rwhp on a load type dyno (Dynojet 224 is an eddy current type) isn't far off from what I would expect with a 95mm pulley. I think you have 5-10rwhp more in it though. I think the key is likely the 10.7:1 AF ratio. Lean it out to about 11.5:1 and I am pretty certain you would have made close to 170rwhp on that dyno. 170rwhp on a Dynojet 224 is equivalent to approximately 180rwhp on a Dynojet 248 (inertial), which is what our numbers are published based on. Post the chart when you get a chance and I could give you some recommended settings for your PC Pro.

If you don't have one already, a wideband is a GREAT tool to have. You can get an AEM wideband gauge for under $200 now. For that price, and the information it gives you, I consider it to be something that you shouldn't be without :).

After seeing how rich i was running on the dyno, i think an wideband O2 is probably in the near future. Eventually i plan to go all out to the 120mm crank pulley. For some reason the dyno operator said to run the gap on my spark plugs a little tighter...not sure why he said that. I'm still thrilled with the results!

Niraj

[FormerDatsun510Man]

I'm glad you are enjoying your Coldside!

If you are running the iridium sparkplugs we sent with the kit, you don't want to regap them as they have very delicate electrodes that are not designed to be regapped. I have run these plugs even with the 130mm pulley with no issues of spark breakup or loss in power. With standard V-Power plugs you can regap and for that I would recommend anywhere from .032-.035 depending on boost. Generally speaking, the more boost the smaller the gap should be... but for best possible flame-front the idea is you want the largest gap that won't suffer from spark breakup. Since you are running our lowest boost setup, the gap can be nearly as wide as stock... the only real difference is that they are one heat range cooler than stock.

If you intend to pursue larger pulleys I certainly recommend the AEM wideband. From what I have seen in the last 8 years of playing with supercharged Miatas, air-fuel ratio is where 90% of the safety, power and driveability depends upon.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Bill,

I would have considered 160/170 to be bot to bad with those pulleys, right?

[TokenIndian]

Bill,

I would have considered 160/170 to be bot to bad with those pulleys, right?

I have no reference of what is good or bad......all i know is that it feel pretty stout to me :D. I'm working on getting the graphs, once i get them i'll post em up.