Install Help/Questions

[inspector10k]

Thought I'd start a new topic that I'm sure I'll be using in the coming days. The questions are for Tom or anyone to answer. Feel free to answer as if I know nothing about the subject and you won't be off by much.

I was looking at the instructions online again and have a few questions. I know the kit comes with colder range plugs but is the gap of .030 -.032 a typo or correct?

It also says before beginning work to disconnect the battery, which I understand working around the Alt and taking the Alt out but after that in the directions it says to remove Fuel Pump relay and crank engine for 5 seconds to remove pressure from the fuel rail.

Is there any reason we can't remove the pressure from the fuel rail first so that we can leave the battery disconnected till the end?

I didn't see it in the instructions ( I could have missed it ) but is there any sort of priming of the fuel system that has to be done before starting the motor again? If so is there a special procedure?

Once I start the install I'm sure I'll have questions, I'll try not to make it too many. Just know going in that some of them may be pretty basic because this is all new stuff to me.

Thanks, George

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

All good questions.

1. The plugs come gapped at 0.032" and should be simply installed. Do not try to re-gap them.

2. You can relieve the pressure in the beginning if you wish. Most have found that by the time you get to that point there isn't much fuel or pressure left in the line so they just pull it.

3. Nothing special to start it. Typically, it is insert key, start, enjoy. :)

[inspector10k]

Thanks, more to come I'm sure.

[inspector10k]

Off topic but I was just reading posts in the Forced Induction section of Miata.net. Tom you talk about a PC-Pro, will this end up replacing the Jackson Racing PowerCard? I guess at some point it will go out with new kits, will you also sell them alone so people can upgrade to them?

P.S. I realize I'm getting a head of myself

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Sell? :)

I will be supplying them to existing FFS customers free of charge as soon as my engineering staff (me :)) approves it for use and they becone readily available. It appears that ours will be a special software edition specific to my products. I just never seem to be able to leave well enough alone. ;)

however, the 94-97 works so well with the PC/SS that they will be last to swap. You will probably notice very little change but it will be swapped anyhow. Probably early October for the 94-97 guys. 01-05 first, 99/00 second.

I might hold back on CA customers until after CARB just to make sure we don't have to tweak something for them.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

The system is on it's way. :)

[inspector10k]

:P GREAT!!! When you get a chance send the tracking number.

THANKS :lol:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I sent that hours ago before I even posted. If you don't get it, let me know and I'll re-send. UPS website was SLOOOOW today. I almost didn't ship just because I was having soo much trouble on the site. But patience prevailed. ;)

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

:P GREAT!!! When you get a chance send the tracking number.

THANKS :lol:

Done. I would post them here but somebody might be sitting on your doorstep waiting to take them before you. :)

[inspector10k]

IT'S HERE!!! Photo's and info can be found here http://miata.cardomain.com/ride/569092/8 Most likely the page won't be updated again till it's fully installed and operational but you never know.

I've taken a few days off from work next week and the week after so the current plan of attack is to do the install between 9/14 and 9/19, that SHOULD be enough time for me to do an 8 to 10 hours job! I have to work outside so I hope the weather will be good and there won't be too much going on here. I live at a Yacht club so I sort of have to work around when there are functions being held.

In the mean time I've been doing research, mostly searches on Miata.Net and found some things which may be of interest to some of you. These are both new things to me, the tape I will be using ( but it won't replace regular electrical tape 100%, to much money) and the NGP+ I really like the idea of but again it's A LOT of money and from what I've read getting ALL the water out of your cooling system could be hard but it's said to be great if pinging is your problem. Anyway here are some links, I hope someone finds them useful.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=7973&highlight=straight+coolent

http://www.evanscooling.com/main25.htm

http://www.mocap.com/silicone_tape.asp?pc=ggl here's so info about the tape, silicone wrap fuses to itself in 24 hours creating an air and water tight bond and is rated at -85F to +500F. Excellent for wiring harnesses too in place of low temperature electrical tape that gets gooey in extreme heat and cracks and peels in cold weather.

THANK YOU TOM!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

No, THANK YOU for the order. :)

I have used that silicone tape for all kinds of waterproofing. It is really neat. it might cure in 24 hours but it is stuck the instant it touches itself. I get it from the local Ace Hardware store. They even had a couple colors.

The yoyo is intended for the same reason that Napoleon carried one into battle. Stress relief. ;) if things get a bit tough. Stop, do a couple 'round-the-worlds' and then back at it. If you get bored with the install, take a minute and visit this website. http://www.theyoyomuseum.com/museum_view.php?action=profiles&subaction=yoyo_tom :)

Take a close look at the shipping box. That costs me $40 but worth every penny. We can all thank Ari (99mx5) for that. I had those made shortly after FedEx decided to run their truck over his a couple times.

[inspector10k]

OK, I getting myself mentally ready to start the install. Again plan to start on the 14th and have till the 19th if I need it. So I read the directions again I still don't understand all of it but I figure when I'm doing it and have the parts in my hand I should be able to tell what's what ( if not there is this forum and the phone ).

As Tom told me and lists in the instructions I should get new Mazda O-Rings and Insulator's for the fuel injectors. I plan on doing that tomorrow. I know what the O-Rings are but I'm not sure about the insulators. In the instructions on page 32 it shows the insulator being at the other end of the injector from the O-Ring but I thought it was the rubber part ( that kind of looks like two o-rings with a rubber spacer keeping them about 1/4 inch apart but it's all one piece ) between the O-Ring and where you plug the harness into the injector. Is that correct?

In some of the pictures it looks like there is thread tape ( not sure if that's what it's called ) being used. Is this also used on the brass fittings and the fuel plug that go into the fuel rail? Won't gas eat the tape and make it leak? Or is there a certain type of tape to be used?

I assume the supercharger is filled with oil but where do I check this and do you replace it every X miles or just check it and top it off and what type of oil is used?

I want to give myself as much room and make it as easy for me as I can so my car will be up on 4 jack stands and I'll have the radiator out ( since I'll also be replacing the fans and may or may not have fitment issues) and coolant drained. Any reason why I would not want to do that?

Also while it's up there I'll drain the oil and disconnect the oil filter relocation kit and leave the filter off to make more working room. Any reason not to do this? The relocation kit and alarm speaker are both on the passenger fire wall. I'll probably move the alarm speaker somewhere and if there is room put the filter relocation kit where the speaker was. If there is not room with the vacuum distribution block and IAC I may just put the oil filter on the stock block location.

Lastly with regard to this post and future one's please remember the saying there are not stupid questions, just people who have little idea of what they are doing :)

Thanks, George

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

The insulators are at the other end from the o-rings. They are used to keep the heat away from the injectors. They are made from a herd rubber and, with age get real hard. They need to have some elasticity so the rail can compress the injector into them and seal. They actually look like a spacer of sorts. The first ones I saw came out of my 99 and I really did think they were plastic until Mike showed me a set of new ones.

The tape you use on the brass threads is teflon tape. It is impervious to fuel and most other chemicals. The harware store is a good place to get that. Should be about $0.50 for a roll of it long enough to do the whiole system. If you have never taped pipe threads before, make sure you roll it on the thread so that when you screw the part into the fitting, the tape is going with the threads. Otherwise, it will try to un-wrap as you screw the part in.

There is a small screw (plug) on the front of the supercharger that is used to check/fill the oil.

http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers.com/Install/SC-Oil-Fill.jpg

That is a good way to do it. If the radiator has to come out anyway, that is a good time to take it out.

Leave the filter off and cover the hole with some duct tape. I have my re-located oil filter up front on the passenger fender. I did that when I added the oil cooler a couple years ago.

Better said, "there are no stupid questions. Only stupid answers.". Pleas don't hesitate to post here and ask or call my cell phone.

Sorry it took so long to reply but I had to assemble that SC to take the picture and then mark it up. ;)

[inspector10k]

as always, Thanks

[inspector10k]

Quick questions, I was in a Sears hardware store today and did not see Teflon tape ( or a sales person to ask) but I did see/buy thread seal tape (Gas Yellow Tape) same size and look of the Teflon but it's Yellow.

On the back of the package it says "for threaded pipe joints, not to exceed 1 1/2" in pipe size, in applications handling: gasoline, petroleum oils, propane butane, naptha, benzene, kerosene and natural gas (pressure not over 100 P.S.I.G)"

Is this ok to use?

I'm seeing what things I have and what I need, Allen wrench wise I have 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3,4,5 and 6 mm. Do you know what other sizes I will need?

Thanks, George

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That tape will work just fine. it is for pipe threads. Don't use it on straight threads. You should pick up a small tube of blue loc-tite and a small tube of Ultra-Black. Both readily available at your auto parts store. Use blue loc-tite, not red. Most of the small bolts come with the "patch" which is loctite so they need nothing. For the 5th injector, I use a little Ultra-Black on the threads just because.

I think 6mm is the largest Allen you will use. It is for the 8mm bolts. Four on the underside of the manifold and three on the front of the SC to hold the auto-tensioner bracket on.

[inspector10k]

I think I may have everything then, I got Ultra Black and the Blue Loc-tite today too. If I can't find my 5/16 socket I'll have to get another one of those. The Local mazda dealer's computer was down yesterday so the injector parts didn't come it today (not sure how that matters) but they "should" have them tomorrow.

Oh and I'll pick up some extra fuel line and I think that should do it.

One more thing, part of your answer makes another question for me. What's the difference between pipe and straight threads?

I'm guessing pipe thread is hollow like where the fuel hoses and vacuum tubes go and straight thread would be solid like the plug that goes into the fuel rail?

I hope all my post will help the next newbe not have to ask so many question!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Pipe threads are tapered. All of the holes on the fuel rail are pipe threads. Straight threads are what you would find on a bolt or nut where you can screw it in with no problem. With a pipe thread, it will tighten up as you screw it in instead of bottoming out like a bolt would do.

Sounds like you are on your way.

[inspector10k]

Thanks, I just learned something new!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Pipe threads have so much taper that it will be obvious when you look at one. When wraping the tape, remember to wrap it so that it wont try to unwind when you screw the fitting into the hole. If you are looking at the threaded end of the fitting , the tape would wind on clockwise. Pull it nice and tight into the threads and do about three wraps around the threads. Don't let it go over the end of the fitting. Better to let the last thread be uncovered.

[inspector10k]

Update: Doesn't look good for the good guys today, off to a rough rainy start. I did get my car up on jack stands.
It's too bad I'm not a Supermodel, I have a great wet T-Shirt thing going on!

Still waiting for the fuel injector parts from the dealership, if they come today I won't be missing much work on the car. I hope to get at least a little done today in-between the rain drops. The rain should be over by late tomorrow morning.

I hope you people with garages know how lucky you are!!

For future reference, does anyone have a better/faster method for getting your car up on jack stands? I drive the front up on Rhino ramps at the same time the rear is driving up 2 X 6 ( my car is lowered a little ). Today with the rain I could get on the wood and ramp at the same time just wheel spin and tire smell. Then I go from back to front, back to front ...... with 1 to 4 2X 6's under the floor jack till I get the car where I need it. It usually takes at least an hour getting it down is quicker but not all that much.

Looks that there is a break in the rain, it's time to do something while I can!

George

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I use Miike's Place. :-)

For work at home, I have a low profile, high lift jack.

[Kyp J]

Update: Doesn't look good for the good guys today, off to a rough rainy start. I did get my car up on jack stands.
It's too bad I'm not a Supermodel, I have a great wet T-Shirt thing going on!

Still waiting for the fuel injector parts from the dealership, if they come today I won't be missing much work on the car. I hope to get at least a little done today in-between the rain drops. The rain should be over by late tomorrow morning.

I hope you people with garages know how lucky you are!!

For future reference, does anyone have a better/faster method for getting your car up on jack stands? I drive the front up on Rhino ramps at the same time the rear is driving up 2 X 6 ( my car is lowered a little ). Today with the rain I could get on the wood and ramp at the same time just wheel spin and tire smell. Then I go from back to front, back to front ...... with 1 to 4 2X 6's under the floor jack till I get the car where I need it. It usually takes at least an hour getting it down is quicker but not all that much.

Looks that there is a break in the rain, it's time to do something while I can!

George

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40105

This is the kind of jack I use for garage work and autocross tire swapping. I've had it for several years and it is still working. You don't have Harbor freight in your area but you could order it. There is a smaller one shown to the right of this one that would probably work as well.

On a 2001 I put the pad under the pinched ridge below the door just below the side mirror and it lifts the whole side. I put it high enough for the jack stands to be raised where I want them but it may be safer to do it in stages. So far I have had mine on jack stands at least twenty times.

You do need a hard surface, so I hope you aren't working on a gravel driveway. Oh, I forgot, all of New York is paved.

[chuckerants]

What type of pad did you use?

[Kyp J]

Just the rubber pad that came on the jack. It has cut outs on the cup on 4 sides so it isn't metal to metal (slippery) which you don't want because the jack crawls under the car slightly as it goes up (why you need a hard surface). I have never had a problem with the pinch getting bent like I have seen mentioned (so they use an oak board with slot to yoke the pinch). I had already jacked the car a few million times before reading about the board thing or I would have made one.

[inspector10k]

Kyp J, Thanks for the jack info, it's now on my Miata want list. It's a very long list!

End of day two and the weather doesn't seem to care that I'm on a dead line! Had at least 2 hours of rain delays today where I had to stop and a lot of the 4 to 5 hours I did work was in a lighter rain. Yesterday I worked maybe 4 hours with much of it in the rain. They say rain for tomorrow morning too.

I have to say that even with the weather I'm really enjoying myself and having fun (read no major problems). My biggest issue is me not knowing what certain parts are called and not knowing what they look like. Even with Tom's photo's and the Enthusiast's manual and the factory workshop manual I still have trouble knowing what's what. Example it took 15-20 minutes to find the fuel pump relay between going back and forth from the car to the books (if the weather was better the books would have been outside).

For the most part I've been doing things in order of the instructions, (did fuel pump relay first) because I wanted to drain the oil and remove the radiator, some didn't apply since I didn't have a stock air intake to start with. If I got stuck at something I would skip head to what I could do and then go back.

Some other things I had to do out of order because of my car (1995, I guess they are all a little different) my intake manifold is all one piece so I had to take the fuel rail, injectors, harness etc. out first so I could get to the top 5 nuts. To make my life easier for the bottom 4 I'm going to remove the manifold support brace and alternator first.

One problem I'm having now is that I can't unscrew the 4 screws of the IAC. I've used PB buster on them still no luck I think mostly it's that I need a bigger Phillips screw driver, I have big one's but I can't turn the screws and it's starting to strip the head of one ( not bad yet) but before I try and make it worse. I think I'll buy a VERY big Phillips, then if I still can't get it you'll see another post here!

Another problem I expect to have is with the EGR, the 22mm nut is unscrewed all the way, the 2 10mm nuts from the EGR crossover tube are off but I can't even see/find the 10mm bolt from the EGR crossover tube at the back of the engine. When I do find it I don't see how I'm going to reach it.

So as of the end of today I'm more or less up to the end of page 23 except for removing the lower manifold support brace bolt, the 4 IAC screws and the 10mm bolt at the back of the engine for the EGR crossover tube. Extra's I did do: removed the radiator for more work space and I'm putting in new fan's ( 2 Spal 12") and drained oil.

I didn't get to put the new motor mounts or the new fuel pump in before I started like I wanted so they will get done as part of the install. Most likely when I'm having trouble with something else I'll leave it for a while and do the motor mount or fuel pump.

By the end of tomorrow I hope to be done with all the uninstalling but if I'm not that's ok too. I can blame the weather!

P.S. Tom, do you think this shock tower brace will fit with your ColdSide and the associated parts connected to the passenger side fire wall? Do any of you Coldsiders have this bar?
http://www.miatamania.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=46215

Notes for Tom: I guess this applies at least to '95's . Like I said earlier my intake manifold is one piece, and on the bottom of page 16, remover the 2 12mm bolts from the front of the intake manifold. My car doesn't have those. No snaps on the injector harness.

More to come.......

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I'm on my PDA so I'll keep it short. Pain to type on.

Before you tackle those screws, hit your favorite cheap tool store (Harbor Freight ) and buy an impact screwdriver set ($6-$8). It will also work with sockets. Best $6 you'll spend. Local guy is installing a hotside on a 95 and brought his TB with IAC. Screws were chewed and I had them out in seconds.

Thanks for the notes about the IM. Sorry about the weather.

I can't get to the STB picture on my phone. I don't think we have had a problem with a factory brace. My 99 and 05 both have plenty room and factory braces. Hopefully others will speak up. Fuel pump you can do anytime. Motor mounts are easiest after the uninstall and before the install.

[chuckerants]

http://www.miatamania.com/Graphics/Products/Large/904-651_1.jpg

[Kyp J]

An opinion and a suggestion:

Suggestion: Sometimes if you just whack the screwdriver into the screw real hard, it breaks loose whatever is keeping it so tight. (lock tite or corrosion) I used to have an impact tool but that is easier than trying to find it.

Opinion: I don't do any extra functional changes when I do something major and complicated. If you put in the fuel pump and the blower at the same time, if something doesn't work, it complicates troubleshooting. When I R & Rd my whole engine, I was pretty surprised when it started first try. If it didn't it would have been head scratching time.

[inspector10k]

Kyp J, I already got the impact screwdriver set this morning, in two minutes I had all 4 screws out. I may hold off on the fuel pump but short of having the header out I don't see how I would ever have more room to do the motor mounts. Doing it now with the intake, oil filter and Alt out.

Today I worked a little less then 4 hours ( it was a nice day too ) I'm ready to start putting it back together but like I said I think I'll do the motor mounts first tomorrow.

The last bottom intake nut was no real problem I was able to do it the same way I did the other 3 , from underneath with an extension and a socket ( no alt, oil filter or intake support bracket ).

My big problem today was step 29, the EGR bolt in the back of the motor, I could hardly get a socket or wrench on it and after a 1/2 hour I gave up.

I was able ( not easily ) to get the EGR crossover tube off of the back on the intake manifold without hurting anything.
Tom do I really need to get that bolt out ( and on mine it's more of a bolt in a bracket ) for the reinstall?

So three days I'm guessing 12 to 14 hours total to be 1/2 way done. With no big problems.

That's all for now.

P.S. does the picture ( 2 carrots?) next to this topic mean I shouldn't put any new posts here?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Everybody should have an impact wrench in their toolbox. Took me about 10 minutes to find mine when Chris came over. I probably use it once ebery couple years.

Those are not carrots. :) Those are Chilli Peppers. That means this is a hot topic. Keep up the good work.

[inspector10k]

I keep forgetting to ask. Is the air filter ready to go ( I have not taken the plastic wrap off ) or does it need to be oiled like the K&N filters?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Ready to go.

[inspector10k]

No progress today towards putting it all back together. I cleaned the engine bay a little, replaced the two coolant hoses that run under the intake manifold.

Spend most of my time with the Spal fans, yes two 12" 1630 CFM can fit with a 55mm Koyo and FM Sway bar. It fit, just rubbing a slight amount without trimming the fans but I trimmed them anyway.

Didn't get to the motor mounts. I'm going to do that first tomorrow and then will start putting it all back together.

So today no time was spend on the install but to make up for it I put some pictures up on my cardomain page
http://miata.cardomain.com/ride/569092/8

No details with the photo yet, when I'm all done I'll edit and explain.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Take your time.

Those are BIG fans. Make sure they seal to the radiator or put a strip of weather seal areound them to make sure. It is night and day difference. Close is not good enough.

[chuckerants]

I was thinking about getting these Spals.

http://www.dewitts.com/images/sp846.jpg

http://www.dewitts.com/pages/productdetail.asp?ProdID=211

[inspector10k]

Chuckerants, if those are the two HP 11" fans that will work. I remember seeing either a post on Miata.net or they were on someone's Cardomain site IIRC they worked great and they liked them.

I did installed the Mazdaspeed motor mounts today both of the old ones were compressed and the rubber was separated from the metal ( more or less right at the stud ) but nothing was bent. From when I started till I was done was a little over 5 hours. I'd say 2 - 2 1/2 hours of real work the rest of the time was helping out with some stuff around here.

Then when I was about to get a least one thing done toward putting it back together. A boater came to the door that had run out of gas. So I gave him a ride to get gas then made sure his boat started.

Bottom line no official progress today, motor mounts aren't part of the kit so they don't count.

There is always tomorrow!!

[inspector10k]

No update/progress today, got side tracked with other things. Will keep you posted.

[Kyp J]

Inspector

I Just looked at your pictures. I got rid of my old ramps because the car just pushed them around and I never got it to go up them. I didn't know they were for standing on. Damn, I could use them on my truck. I have to get a ladder to check the oil almost.

Unless you have rain like I used to have in Reno, (along with 60 mph wind) it looks like an "easy up" would give you some added work time so you wouldn't have to cover and run every time it starts raining. It would also give your tires a function (hanging from the corners to keep it from blowing away).

[inspector10k]

I think I said it to Tom over the phone but I don't think I said it here. I live at a Yacht club. There is no marina or docking but we are right on the Bay.

So a lot of the time it is very, very windy here. I do have a tarp. In the past I've put over where I work on my car between the building and the club garage ( the garage is filled with all sorts of stuff no room for a car).

It's not really worth it, it just flaps around and gets ripped apart by the wind. Lots of the time it would be nice to have more for the Sun then rain.

Because it's not my own place I try not to be doing work when events are going on here or have my stuff all over that area. So far as much as I know no one has complained about me working on my car but I try mostly to do it when no one is around.

Last year my car was up on jackstands in that area but more in the middle of it for most of the month of November when I did my timing belt because of weather and waiting for parts I wasn't planning on needing. I had a big crank key way problem had to 660 lotite that ( took almost a week to find the 660 lotite ) need to replace the bottom pulley the timing belt goes around.

I got along great with the last Commodore but a different member becomes Commodore every year and it just changed this past Monday so I'll see what happens.

I'm not a member, I just live here and I try not to make waves.

[inspector10k]

Fuel rail questions.

I'm not up to this part yet but I looked at the instruction I have some questions.

At the rear of the fuel rail ( closest to firewall ) a 90* bass fitting goes in that end, correct?
The plug is also at that end. What is the reason for the plug? Is that where you would connect a fuel pressure gauge if you wanted one?

At the other end of the fuel rail ( toward the front of the car ). This is where the straight bass fitting goes, correct? If so should it fit flush with the fuel rail? The part you tighten goes all the way to the rail, like can be seen in the photo on the top of page 36 of the instructions. On mine test fitting it without tape on only doing it finger tight it only seems to go about 1/2 way before I can't turn it anymore and it has about 1/2" on threads still sticking out. At the other end with the 90* fitting all the threads go in.

Last but not least, I don't see how to attach the FRP to the fuel rail. See photo page 59, I've checked all the bags should there be a fitting with "wings" that the FRP would connect to then that fitting would go into the front end of the fuel rail ( not the straight one like I said earlier ). If so I don't have that fitting, if not then like I said I don't see how it attaches

Thanks, George

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

There is an assortment of fittings because different people have wanted to do it different ways. Personally, I would feed one end and plug the other. I don't really see a need to dual feed the rail with that big 3/8" bore. However, some have desired to do so. Therefore it is capable of feeding both ends. The assortment of fittings allows you to pick what is desired for the angle of the hose or front or rear feed. There is a straight, 90* and 45* fitting. Your choice. There should have also beed a brass fitting with a flange to mate with the FPR. If it is missing I will drop another off to you. It should have been in with the other fittings.

The FPR adaptor could go in any of the 3 locations on the rail too. For example, you might want to feed from the back and put the FPR on the front.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

It is on the way. Overnight mail.

[inspector10k]

Thank you!! I'm 99% sure I won't get to where I will need it till sometime on Friday.

It's hard to believe with all the times I read the directions and looked at all the stuff that I didn't notice it till now!

I just checked everything again, nothing with a flange ( or as I say wings ) to mate to the FPR

[inspector10k]

Slight progress today. Did get the intake manifold in but still need to tighten the back two bottom nuts. Were you guys able to get a torque wrench on the bottom nuts especially the back two?

Did a few other quick things, removed TB and TB adapter, did some nice wire wrapping, picked up my cut and painted cam cover and some other things that I can't think of right now.

[99mx5]

I used an open end wrench and positioned it behind the starter for the bottom 2 nuts. Makes that job easy.

[inspector10k]

I've been thinking about it and I think I need to move myself back more under the car. When I could use a socket and extension because the intake have the grooves I could reach the nuts with my head near the front of the car.

Since this intake is flat and I can't get a socket with extension to seat well on them I'll try an open end and move under the car more.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Shallow 12mm wobble socket with 1/4" drive and a long piece of pipe will do it too. :)

[inspector10k]

Tom, just to let you know the flange part just got here a few minutes ago. The intake is now on, I couldn't get an open end or the wobble socket on it and get a good angle but was able to get the last two with the crow's foot and a lot of cursing!

[inspector10k]

I didn't get as far as I wanted today, I wanted to have everything behind the cam cover bolted in, I took the coil pack out, the CAS and most other bolts and connections so I could get to the coolant temp sensor. I needed to connect a wire to it for the Spal fans. Replaced the O-Ring since the CAS was out.

Still I'm happy with the progress made. The more I do the more the instruction make sense. I did have some questions today but right now my mind isn't working so maybe I'll post them in the morning when I can think again, hope I remember.

I posted a few more pictures on my webpage, at least now it looks like I'm making progress!

http://miata.cardomain.com/ride/569092/8

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Actually, that looks like a lot of progress. The blower is in.

Looking good.

[inspector10k]

Tom, I finally got the steel pipe in. What worked for me was disconnecting it from the EGR adapter plate then connecting the bottom part. Disconnecting the EGR pipe from adapter plate and undoing the 22mm nut and the bolt in the back of the motor.

I then connected the steel pipe back to the top then the EGR pipe back to the plate and connected the 22mm nut again and back bolt.

New question, just want to be sure I have enough hose barbs. I have the plug for the fuel rail and the flange ( you just sent ) for the front end of the rail for the FPR. For the rear of the fuel rail I have 2 - 90* hose barbs, 1 - 45* hose barb and 1 straight hose barb. So I'll be using one of those 4 for the rear of the fuel rail. So I'll then have 3 left over.

Reading a head the instructions say to connect a hose to the hose barb under the IAC plate. There is no hose barb there but there is no reason I can't use one of the left over three hose barbs there and I should also use Teflon tape on it correct? One of the 90* one's seem to make the most sense to me.

Other then on the IAC plate all other hose barbs are installed?

Thanks, George

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Tom, I finally got the steel pipe in. What worked for me was disconnecting it from the EGR adapter plate then connecting the bottom part. Disconnecting the EGR pipe from adapter plate and undoing the 22mm nut and the bolt in the back of the motor.

I then connected the steel pipe back to the top then the EGR pipe back to the plate and connected the 22mm nut again and back bolt.

I think that is why the instructions call for loosening that nut. That EGR tube is the only fitup issue as we have no control over where it falls and aftermarket headers don't help. Once you get it all lined up and bolted down it has nowhere to go. NOTE: make sure nothing is close to the EGR assembly. It gets real hot and will melt anything it touches.

New question, just want to be sure I have enough hose barbs. I have the plug for the fuel rail and the flange ( you just sent ) for the front end of the rail for the FPR. For the rear of the fuel rail I have 2 - 90* hose barbs, 1 - 45* hose barb and 1 straight hose barb. So I'll be using one of those 4 for the rear of the fuel rail. So I'll then have 3 left over.

Yep those are leftovers that you get to keep as miscellaneous leftover spare parts. Everytime I do a job like this I get those but yours are on purpose. ;)

Reading a head the instructions say to connect a hose to the hose barb under the IAC plate. There is no hose barb there but there is no reason I can't use one of the left over three hose barbs there and I should also use Teflon tape on it correct? One of the 90* one's seem to make the most sense to me.

Yes. Use teflon tape on all hose barbs you install. Yep you can use one of the unused ones from the fuel rail. 90* or straight as you feel the hose fits best.

Other then on the IAC plate all other hose barbs are installed?

I sure hope so. Other barbs are the one 90* out the bottom of the BTB and the two 90* off the BTB-A manifold and the two on the side of the manifold and the six or seven on the VDB as the case may be.

Thanks, George

You are welcome.

[inspector10k]

Nothing was done yesterday, rain in the morning and I had to go someplace in the afternoon. The light at the end of the tunnel gets bright then fades and keeps doing that.

A few questions, the vacuum distribution block, I just noticed that mine has 4 barbs on the bottom not 5 and I have cruise control. Do I need a different one?

This one I think is just a misprint but I want to be sure. On page 50 the illustration of the vacuum distribution block on one of the barbs it says to FPS, should that be FPR?

Speaking of vacuum tubes what would you suggest is the best place to connect the vacuum tube from a boost/vacuum gauge?

Fuel line confusion, just want to be sure I have it right. Stock, before doing any of this the hard fuel lines (pipes) on the passenger side. The rear most pipe had a fuel line coming off of it which went to the front of the stock fuel rail which is the fuel feed. The front most pipe had a fuel line coming off of it which went to the rear of the fuel rail to the FPR.

So that means the 3 hoses from the kit that meet at a T-connection hook up like this. The center ( bottom part of the T ) line goes to the E-cool injector, one of the other 2 ends would go to the rear of the new fuel rail where I have the fuel feed and the other end of the fuel line would connect to the rear hard line ( pipe ) on the passenger side.

The front hard line would connect to the FPR which is now at the front of the new fuel rail. Is that right? It also looks like it may be a little hard to connect the fuel line to the FPR when it's in place on the rail, so I guess you would do that first then if it doesn't bend at too much on an angle you can route in under the intake manifold? Can the fuel line to the rear of the fuel rail also be routed under the manifold?

Last bit of fuel line confusion. Also with the kit was about 6 feet of fuel line with a short bit of heater hose clamped to one end of it. This line says on it XL fuel line 3/8 inch SAE 30R7 not for fuel injection systems. What is this fuel line for?

For the most part I've been doing things in order but sometimes I would skip ahead if I wasn't sure about something and it looked like it wouldn't effect anything else.

One of the parts I skipped is on the bottom of page 37 of the instructions. Bolt the ground wiring harness to the cam cover . Mine doesn't look anything like that picture ( guess the photo is of a 99 & up ). I don't think it will reach but if it does can I connect the ground wire to fuel pressure regulator solenoid that will be connected to the second from the front valve cover bolt, if not can I just connect it to the first valve cover bolt which I'm sure it will reach and if I do I would also have to sand the paint on the valve cover under that bolt down to bare metal, right?

I like asking question better over email because I can't always hear great with my cordless phone and this way I can go back to the answer I don't have to remember or be worried I wrote it down wrong and it's also here for other people to use in the future.

Today they say maybe on and off thunder storms so I don't know how much I'll get done today.

Again for all of you out there, it's really been nothing too hard, it's just that I have very little idea of what I'm doing and what things are called and I only working a few hours at a time. If you are thinking about installing it yourself I would say do it because it seems I'm able to do it.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I forgot we swithced from 4 to 5 for the 94-97. You can tee one of the other lines or I can send you a new VDB. DZepends how soon you need it. I believe that is a 1/4" barb on the FPR, correct?

Yep should be FPR.

I would tee the B/V gauge off of the tube going to the JRPC and SS. They come off the 1/8" barb on the IM. That way you see what they see.

You will plumb the Fuel rail the same. The one hose to feed the rail and the return hose to the FPR. Now, you have choices. You could simply remove the two short hoses from the SS tap and cut the line to the fuel rail and insert the tee there and run the third leg of the tee to the 5th injector. In your case, that is probably what I would do. Find a convenient spot in the fuel feed hose and tap it. The normal way would be harder. The newer cars we remove the jumper hose over at the passenger fender (like the picture) and install it there. The other way described above would be simpler.

You can route the lines wherever it is convenient. Just make sure they are out of the way of rotating parts (pulleys and belts) and hot parts (like the EGR assebly). If you single feed the fuel rail, it may also be possible to mount the FPR on the back of the rail and plug the top hole? Not sure what fits back there. No magic as to the rotation of the FPR either. Endless possibilities.

That 3/8 line is for vacuum hose. Start with the end with the piece of 5/8" hose. That will mount on your IAC valve and run as in the diagram. I use fuel line for the vacuum hose as it has a stiffer wall and less prone to sucking in the wall. There are several places that require 3/8" vacuum line. There should be adequate hose for all of it.

Any place on the engine that looks like a solid metal ground can be used. That was just a convenient spot for the picture. However, make sure you have a good ground.

The key to success is to take your time.

[inspector10k]

Well first of all if the key to success is taking your time then this should be VERY successful!

If you don't mind could you send the 5 barbed VDB, I just figure less chance for a vacuum leak, and I'll mail this one back to you when I get it. This is the outer diameter of the 4 bottom barbs, the big TBA ( I'm guessing throttle body assembly) is 6/16th, the FPR is 4/16th ( or 1/4 ) and the other 2 are just under 3/16th's

All the abbreviations are getting me! IM is intake manifold?

I don't know if you will be able to tell anything from the pictures but when you get a chance could you take a look at the last 4 photo's here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/569092/8 and let me know if you think it looks right. I only put the pulley on to make me think I've made some progress and to test fit it the bolts are all the way in but I didn't torque them yet.

One other question that may be coming up or I might figure it out when I get to it. The small coolant hose that comes off of the ring around the oil filter and goes to the front of the car. What does the end at the front of the car attach to? I guess I'm asking the question now and it looks like I messed up a little.

On page 26 of the instructions it says to unclamp the hose on the thermostat side that goes to the throttle body. Well it's still on my thermostat so I must have disconnected it from the throttle body. Does this answer my question above? Do I need a new one piece hose that goes from the thermostat to the front connection on the ring around the oil filter?

OK, I guess that's it for now. As always thanks for your time!!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I'll get it off tomorrow.

Yep. IM is intake manifold. You will be an expert at abbreviations when this is over. :)

Hard to tell from the pictures but it looks good. The new pulley should be about an 1/8" from the stock pulley.

There should be a coolant hose from the oil filter and another from up front by the thermostat housing. Those two hoses go to the IAC valve and connect to the two smal barbs on the top of the valve. Connection doesn't matter. Ether hose on either barb. You may need to buy a length of that hose if the old ones are not long enough to where you mount it.

On the 99+ I supply a hose to go from the oil filter to the thermostat. However, on the 94-97, you have to run the hoses to the IAC or it will not work correctly.

[inspector10k]

I don't think either hose will reach where the IAC will be. I don't know what the diameter of the two hoses but it's not big. Do they sell small diameter coolant hoses off of rolls and you can get whatever length you want? Can I use fuel line hose like you are doing for vacuum hose?

I'm really starting to miss my car! Can't wait to drive it again!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

They should have heater hose in that size but I would guess you could use fuel line as well. Take one of the hoses with you for size. I would guess 5/16" ID?

[Kyp J]

I'll get it off tomorrow.

Yep. IM is intake manifold. You will be an expert at abbreviations when this is over. :)

Hard to tell from the pictures but it looks good. The new pulley should be about an 1/8" from the stock pulley.

There should be a coolant hose from the oil filter and another from up front by the thermostat housing. Those two hoses go to the IAC valve and connect to the two smal barbs on the top of the valve. Connection doesn't matter. Ether hose on either barb. You may need to buy a length of that hose if the old ones are not long enough to where you mount it.

On the 99+ I supply a hose to go from the oil filter to the thermostat. However, on the 94-97, you have to run the hoses to the IAC or it will not work correctly.

There seems to me to be something wrong here. Maybe I've been away from the abreviations too long. "...coolant hose from oil filter...to the IAC valve..."? Idle Air Control with coolant?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Only on the 94-97. The thermal valve is integral to the IAC and needs heat to shut off. 99+ IAC valves don't need the water lines.

[Kyp J]

Sorry. I was imagining mine with water and couldn't get it through my head. I had heard of water lines (I thought) going to the Throttle Body on older Miatas but this is the first time I heard of the IAC connected to water. I'm going to have to look closer at other cars to see what the differences are.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Both the 94-97 and 99+ have water lines to the stock throttle body. The 94-97 go to the IAC mounted on the throttle body and the 99+ go direct to the throttle body. When you sit the throttle body aside for the new BTB, the water line connections go away. However, the thermal valve is still part of the IAC on the 94-97. It is a normally open valve that closes with heat. If you don't heat it, it never closes and plays real havoc with idle and even normal driving. That's why it is imperative that they be connected on the 94-97.

[inspector10k]

Today the only thing I did was torque the Crank pulley which was more then I expected to get to but tomorrow I don't have to go to work so I should get some stuff done. After that I don't think I can get to it till Thursday afternoon so it will take how ever long it takes but I'm thinking maybe Friday or Saturday I could be done!

Oh, I also stopped at NAPA and got the 7 feet of 5/16th non fuel injector fuel hose to use for the coolant hoses I need for the thermostat and oil filter area to the IAC. 5/16th is the same diameter as the hoses that were used.

[inspector10k]

IAC question ( not that I'll get to it today ) but does it matter which way you mount it? Originally the coolant hoses would connect to the bottom of it. In the illustration in the instructions it's mounted with them on top. Do you think it makes any difference for coolant flow or it doesn't matter?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

It makes no difference the direction you mount it or the connection of the two water lines. There is no specific in or out to the water lines.

[inspector10k]

Well I'm happy with what I got done today. More harness wire rewrapping, lots more ( don't ask ), I Teflon taped all the barbs, plug and flange for the fuel rail and IAC. I practiced with the IAC barb a few times then did the others. I installed the two hoses that will go to the IAC, drilled holes to mount the IAC. I didn't drill holes to mount the VDB because I'm not sure if the holes line up the same with the 4 and 5 barb VDB.

Did the connections for the Air/fuel gauge will do the boost/vac gauge when I do the vacuum lines. Installed the Alt and belt. I'm at least up the middle of page 48 in the instructions. Some stuff ahead of that is also done like the crank pulley and spark plugs.

If I'm lucky I'll be home from work by 3 tomorrow and may get to do a little but I'm not counting on it. Thursday I should be home by 1:30. I still will have to do the wiring for the fans but I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel again!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

When you re-install the alternator and tighten the belt, make sure the pivot bolt is TIGHT. It is the ground for the alternator and if it is not tight, it will not run well.

[inspector10k]

I will double check it tomorrow.

Thanks!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

If you click on "Install Tips" you will see that there is only one "Sticky Note" and it is about that bolt. It is that critical.

http://www.fastforwardsuperchargers.com/miata-forum/alternator-wire-and-mou-nting-bolts-vt136.html

[inspector10k]

Made a short list of things to get to, it went ok but could be better. Tighten Alt pivot bolt and nut, the pivot bolt was tight but I was able to get it a little tighter. The nut wasn't loose but I was able to make it a fair amount tighter.

Do the bottom part of the manifold bracket bolts, no problems.

Air filter, slight problem the plug to the MAF would not click into place. I must have broken the tab or something when I disconnected it. It goes in and stays there but a good bump might make it loose so I'll have to figure a way to make sure it won't pull out. The only thing that comes to mind is to wrap tape (silicone tape) around it unless someone has a better idea.

Installed belt tensioner and belt, no problems.

Throttle cable, PROBLEM!! I think I know how to fix it.
Tom, please take a look at the photo's at the bottom here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/569092/8
and let me know what you think.
I have it adjusted to take as much slack as I can out and it's still too loose.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Do you have a Home Depot or Lowes or ACE nearby? If so, they sell a next size up pulley. They are sliding glass door wheels ($3 for two). Measure that one and get one size up. They come 1", 1-1/8" and 1-1/4". Might even be 1-3/8. I think that, if you drill a new hole, it will be too far.

[inspector10k]

Thanks, I'll stop at Home Depot on my way home from work.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Pop the wheel off and take it with you for size.

[inspector10k]

Just took it off to bring with me, great minds! Looking ahead in the instructions I have a question, # 53 measure the resistance between the 2 pins corresponding to the Red and Black/Blue wires of the TPS. What do I measure it with and what should it be?

It also says the contact should just close before the throttle arm hits the throttle stop screw, what contact? It may be clear when I'm doing it but right now just reading this I'm not sure what contact. Something on the TPS?

I have not read any of the Power Card and Split Second Extra Injector info yet so I may have a question or two about those when I get to it. I'm pretty sure there will be one or two or.... vacuum tubes that I won't be sure where they go. As always I'll try to do it on my own first then if I'm not sure about something or have a question I'll ask.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

The 94-97 TPS has a potentiometer to show position of the throttle plate like all other years but it also has a contact switch closure to tell the ECU that it is at the idle (throttle plate closed) position. That switch needs to make just before the throttle plate closes fully. If you don't set it, you can have some really weird idle issues.

You can disconnect the electrical connector from the TPS and connect an ohm meter across the terminals. The meter will either read open circuit or closed circuit. Loosen the screws on the TPS and adjust for it to just close when the throttle plate closes and opens when the throttle plate opens.

[Kyp J]

Quote:
"I have not read any of the Power Card and Split Second Extra Injector info yet so I may have a question or two about those when I get to it. I'm pretty sure there will be one or two or.... vacuum tubes that I won't be sure where they go. As always I'll try to do it on my own first then if I'm not sure about something or have a question I'll ask."

Vacuum tubes? Do the kits for the old Miatas use vacuum tubes. I'm glad I have one of the new transistorized Miatas

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I thought the same thing at first read. LOL We must be old.

[99mx5]

I remember the vacuum tube testing stations at the local supermarket....

Oops! Did I just show my age?

[inspector10k]

I didn't really get much done today. The new VDB came and it's mounted. After I get the car done I'll mail the other one back to you. The IAC was mounted but with the coolant hoses & hose clamps connected it hits the hood so I need to lower it a little ( can't just flip it over it won't clear the water bottle ).

I got two different size pulleys for the throttle, the bigger one worked but I had to move the cable all the way back and the pulley was right up against it. I didn't really like it so I did drill another hole a little bit forward of the other hole and used the medium size pulley, all in now fine.

I'm going to watch TV now, I'll be adjusting the rabbit ears while I wait for the vacuum tubes to warm up!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Can you leave the bracket screwed to the firewall and simply flip the plate? That might do it as well. Then the fitting would be pointed up and the IAC would be under the plate. You might also try mounting it sideways.

Glad the pulley did the job. :-)

[inspector10k]

I just took a quick look, sideways is something to think about.

I may have a rain delay in the morning either way I need to go out a get a little more fuel injector line, I have an 18" piece I got for the FPR but it looks like that will be too short.

I'm getting close!!!!

[99mx5]

you can also try mounting the backing plate to the top side of the IAC plate instead of the bottom. this will allow you to lower the valve.

[inspector10k]

Vacuum hose questions. Most of it I can do from the instructions but there are a few hoses I'm not sure about.

Please check my work and tell me where these other hose go if you can.

The VDB with 7 barbs the (drivers side) left most one on the side this goes to the hard line brake booster.

The next one the 1st one on the bottom of the 5 on the bottom goes to throttle body adapter (right/passenger side), not the one behind the EGR stainless steel tube

The 2nd of the 5 bottom ones goes to fuel pressure solenoid then a hose goes from the front of the FPS to the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

The middle of the bottom 5 barbs go to the cruise control.

The 4th bottom one I have a question about, I don't know where the boost sensor is if I have one. I looked in the enthusiast's manual and don't see it listed

The 5th bottom one goes to the Purge Control Valve, I found that one thanks to the enthusiast's manual

The last barb on the right/passenger side of the VDB go directly to the barb on the bottom of the IAC (see below)

I think all the above is correct and I just don't know where to connect the 4th bottom one (boost sensor)

From the Cam Cover area

Already said FPR to the FPS then the back of the FPS to the second from the left bottom barb.

The PCV to the barb very close to it on the throttle body adapter, just behind the EGR stainless steel tube.

The Valve cover breather, goes to the left side of a T connector, the center of the T goes to the Throttle body barb the Right side of the T goes to the big 5/8" pipe on the ICA using the hose adaptor.

The right/passenger side of the SuperCharger ( three connections)

The one closest to the front of the car goes to the Power card and Split Second and I also T into this one for my boost/vac gauge

The next one came already connected to the third one which is on the bottom of the bypass actuator. So I just leave those connected to each other.

If all I wrote above is correct I have these questions/problems.

What to connect the hose for the boost sensor to

I have two left over hose from the passenger side of the car, they are both black hoses one with red dashes on it the other with blue dashes on it. The one with red was connected to the barb coming out of the top of the EGR so I assume I just reconnect it to that. The one with the Blue was connected to a barb coming out of the stock intake manifold. Do I connect this to anything or seal it off or is this what's connected to the boost sensor barb on the VDB?

Lastly on page 50, step 32 of the instruction is says "Install a 3/8" T in the hose from the VDB to Throttle body adaptor and run a hose from the T to the hose barb under the IAC plate but in the illustration on page 4 on the instruction it just show a hose going from the VDB to the Throttle body adapter and another hose from the VDB to the IAC bottom barb. The only T shown in that picture is the one for valve cover breather to throttle body to the big 5/8" pipe on the IAC. Is the second T no longer used because of the right most end barb on the VDB?

If I wasn't confused before typing all this just made me so!!

99mx5, I still have to look but I think sideway might work best for me.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Vacuum hose questions. Most of it I can do from the instructions but there are a few hoses I'm not sure about.

Please check my work and tell me where these other hose go if you can.

The VDB with 7 barbs the (drivers side) left most one on the side this goes to the hard line brake booster.


Correct

The next one the 1st one on the bottom of the 5 on the bottom goes to throttle body adapter (right/passenger side), not the one behind the EGR stainless steel tube


Correct

The 2nd of the 5 bottom ones goes to fuel pressure solenoid then a hose goes from the front of the FPS to the Fuel Pressure Regulator.


Correct. The FPS is really FPS. My error earlier when you asked if it should read FPR and I agreed.

The middle of the bottom 5 barbs go to the cruise control.


Correct

The 4th bottom one I have a question about, I don't know where the boost sensor is if I have one. I looked in the enthusiast's manual and don't see it listed


There should be two small hoses coming from the fron of the passenger fender. One from the boost Sensor and one fron the Purge Solenoid. I think they are typically black with a red tracer. Those two hoses go to the 4th and 5th barbs.

The 5th bottom one goes to the Purge Control Valve, I found that one thanks to the enthusiast's manual


See above

The last barb on the right/passenger side of the VDB go directly to the barb on the bottom of the IAC (see below)


Correct

I think all the above is correct and I just don't know where to connect the 4th bottom one (boost sensor)

From the Cam Cover area

Already said FPR to the FPS then the back of the FPS to the second from the left bottom barb.


Correct

The PCV to the barb very close to it on the throttle body adapter, just behind the EGR stainless steel tube.


Correct

The Valve cover breather, goes to the left side of a T connector, the center of the T goes to the Throttle body barb the Right side of the T goes to the big 5/8" pipe on the ICA using the hose adaptor.


Correct

The right/passenger side of the SuperCharger ( three connections)

The one closest to the front of the car goes to the Power card and Split Second and I also T into this one for my boost/vac gauge


Correct

The next one came already connected to the third one which is on the bottom of the bypass actuator. So I just leave those connected to each other.


Correct

If all I wrote above is correct I have these questions/problems.

What to connect the hose for the boost sensor to

I have two left over hose from the passenger side of the car, they are both black hoses one with red dashes on it the other with blue dashes on it. The one with red was connected to the barb coming out of the top of the EGR so I assume I just reconnect it to that. The one with the Blue was connected to a barb coming out of the stock intake manifold. Do I connect this to anything or seal it off or is this what's connected to the boost sensor barb on the VDB?


If there was a hose coming from the EGR valve before, it should go back. I don't remember that one. The other device must be the boost sensor and it used to go to the manifold and now goes to the empty VDB barb you still have as noted above.

Lastly on page 50, step 32 of the instruction is says "Install a 3/8" T in the hose from the VDB to Throttle body adaptor and run a hose from the T to the hose barb under the IAC plate but in the illustration on page 4 on the instruction it just show a hose going from the VDB to the Throttle body adapter and another hose from the VDB to the IAC bottom barb. The only T shown in that picture is the one for valve cover breather to throttle body to the big 5/8" pipe on the IAC. Is the second T no longer used because of the right most end barb on the VDB?


Correct. The second tee was eliminated when we went from the 6 port VDB to the 7 port VDB which is why you got the wrong VDB. We used to use the tee and then switched to use the 01-05 seven port VDB.

If I wasn't confused before typing all this just made me so!!


Shouldn't be too confused as you were correct on all counts. :)

99mx5, I still have to look but I think sideway might work best for me.

[inspector10k]

OK, looks like I have a hose for every barb and a barb for every hose. The 3 hoses from the passenger side are now spoken for. The Black one with the Red dashes was connected to the top of the EGR and will be again, The plain Black one which is attached to a small box thing has a second hose on the box going to big Black canister and a electrical connection on another part of it so I'm 99% sure that's the Purge Control Valve. Which leaves the Black hose with Blue dashes and since it's the last one left it has to be for the boost sensor.

Notice how I didn't say vacuum tube in this or the last post :)

I just tried one more time and I got the plug for the MAF to click into place, guess I didn't push it in enough or have a good grip/angle on it last time. I didn't like the idea of using tape to hold it together.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel, eh? :) Of course in England, I think they call those railroad tunnels TUBES.

[Kyp J]

Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel, eh? :) Of course in England, I think they call those railroad tunnels TUBES.

But they call vacuum tubes "valves". (If any Brits are still alive that are that old to remember vacuum tubes). That could get really confusing.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

And here I thought they were diodes, triodes and pentodes. Too late to teach me they are valves.

On another British note, we dropped the rebuilt engine and tranny back into the 61 BugEye yesterday. The tranny now has square cut gears. And the GT6 convertible is almost together. Total restoration there. Stole the drivetrain out of a GT6 and the chassis is a 66 Spitfire. So it is now a Spitfire 6.

But enough thread stealing from the inspector. ;)

[inspector10k]

Tom or anyone else can steal this thread anytime, just return it when you are done. Yes with the MAF clicking in there was light but it quickly faded after that.

When to put the hoses on the ends of the fuel rail since it seemed it would be hard to connect them once the rail was in. Well one end was very hard to connect while I sat on my couch. The FPR end went on fine but the barbed other end would not. It took awhile before I realized the barb wasn't a 5/16th like the fuel line. I was using the straight one and I checked the 45* & 90* but all three were the same size. Then I figured I can get it on there anyway and it will be extra nice and tight. It took about a 1/2 hour but I finally admitted I couldn't do it and would have to go the NAPA for a fitting with a 5/16th end.

Got the fitting then while installing the fuel rail I lost 2 of the 3 washer/spacers that go under the bolts for the fuel rail. One I found right away the other was about 25 minutes of looking for a black plastic spacer somewhere in black engine parts in dimness with a lot of cursing feeling around I knock it out from somewhere and it rolled next to the jack stand.

This time I put a dap of high temp silicone on the 3 washer/spacers and fuel rail is installed. It was a little hard doing it with the hoses on it but I still think for me it was easier that if I had tried to connect the hoses after.

That's about it for today, oh yea there was the hour and a half of attaching the IAC to the firewall sideways. It's a much better fit for me that way but I had to do some remodeling of the firewall with the Dermal so it could sit flat. Even with a paper template for the holes it still took a while to get it all right. That will be a Spring project to put Aluminum along there and make it look nice.

It's been over two weeks now so I put the trickle charger on the battery in case I do get done tomorrow.

I know I'm getting close but I think there are still mistakes to be made :) I think I've redone almost everything on the install part of this at least once!

[inspector10k]

I got all the vacuum line hooked up today and was doing the fuel lines and the way I had the fuel feed line at the rear of the fuel rail it was sitting right on top of the EGR Pipe. I didn't see that till I was under the car. To get that line off and the new one on was a big pain.

I had to undo the Vacuum lines from the VDB so I would be able to take the EGR off so I would be able to get the fuel line off. Did that got the new line put the other stuff back in then it got dark. The FPR fuel line is done so I just need to connect the other fuel lines, the Power Card and SS, triple check everything install the radiator and fan and do the wiring for the fan put the splash pan.

I think tomorrow may get rained out but I don't have to work again till Wednesday. So I should be done Monday or Tuesday with a very slight chance it may get done tomorrow.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

It is a disaster if ANYTHING touches the EGR tube or any part of the EGR assembly or even the small tube from the EGR to the BTB-A. Glad you caught it.

[inspector10k]

Me Too!! Before I put the splash pan back on I'll check everything to make sure it's all out of the way of pulleys, belts and heat.

My big worry is fuel leaks but I think I did everything right. I guess I'll find out pretty soon.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That little water hose from the thermostat housing comes to mind as an issue of getting too close to the belt. A couple people have cut it.

[inspector10k]

More questions, you didn't think I was done did ya :) It rained most of the morning yesterday and I took the afternoon off from doing this.

Everything is done for the SC except for the Power Card and Split Second E.I.C. I found all the wires to tap into on the ECU for the Power Card.

My question is the 3 non fuel injector wires from the SS, the Red for power, the Black for ground and the Yellow/Black for the tach . With the Yellow/Black I can just tap into the ECU Tach wire Black/White # 2I . Is that right and can I tap into the power and ground wires coming from the Power Card instead of tapping into the power and ground wires coming from the ECU twice?

Any suggestions on what to do with the extra 3 fuel injector connectors and be nice about it! I was going to tape up the ends of them and zip tie them together and put them someplace out of the way in the engine bay. Is there any reason why I shouldn't cut the 3 injector (head) ends off of the other 3 wires?

I guess I T the Power Card and SS hoses together as close possible near the ECU and then run that one hose into the engine bay and T into it again for the boost/vac gauge and then connect that hose to the SC on the right/passenger side to the barb closest to the front of the car?

I've taken the passenger seat and glove box out to give me more space to work and I hope make it easier to find a place to run the hose and injector head and wire into the engine bay. Is it a bad idea to cut the SS injector wire to run it into the engine then reconnect it rather then finding or making a hole big enough to fit the injector head ( part that connects to the e-cool injector )?

Other than the above I have to put the seat and glove box back put the radiator/antifreeze and fans in and do the wires for that (that may take a little time), check every thing one more time do the splash pan connect the fuel relay and battery and take the car down off the jack stands and of course turn key and enjoy!!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

More questions, you didn't think I was done did ya :) It rained most of the morning yesterday and I took the afternoon off from doing this.

Everybody needs a day off once in awhile. Speaking of which, I will be gone in about a half hour and back tomorrow. Off to the mountains to test altitude and cold on the PC-Pro. If you have a specific question and I am out of computer range, call me.

Everything is done for the SC except for the Power Card and Split Second E.I.C. I found all the wires to tap into on the ECU for the Power Card.

My question is the 3 non fuel injector wires from the SS, the Red for power, the Black for ground and the Yellow/Black for the tach . With the Yellow/Black I can just tap into the ECU Tach wire Black/White # 2I . Is that right and can I tap into the power and ground wires coming from the Power Card instead of tapping into the power and ground wires coming from the ECU twice?

Yep. Red to read and black to black will do just fine. Yellow/Black to the tach (2I) is also correct.

Any suggestions on what to do with the extra 3 fuel injector connectors and be nice about it! I was going to tape up the ends of them and zip tie them together and put them someplace out of the way in the engine bay. Is there any reason why I shouldn't cut the 3 injector (head) ends off of the other 3 wires?

They are unused unless you add WI later. I would also roll them up and cover the ends with some black tape to keep the dirt out and stuff them aside.

I guess I T the Power Card and SS hoses together as close possible near the ECU and then run that one hose into the engine bay and T into it again for the boost/vac gauge and then connect that hose to the SC on the right/passenger side to the barb closest to the front of the car?

Yep. Exactly

I've taken the passenger seat and glove box out to give me more space to work and I hope make it easier to find a place to run the hose and injector head and wire into the engine bay. Is it a bad idea to cut the SS injector wire to run it into the engine then reconnect it rather then finding or making a hole big enough to fit the injector head ( part that connects to the e-cool injector )?

I would cut and re-splice before cutting a big hole like that.

Other than the above I have to put the seat and glove box back put the radiator/antifreeze and fans in and do the wires for that (that may take a little time), check every thing one more time do the splash pan connect the fuel relay and battery and take the car down off the jack stands and of course turn key and enjoy!!

Call me if you need me. I should have phone service even if I don't have computer service.

Sounds like you are on the home stretch.

[inspector10k]

I'm getting close I can feel it but I think it won't happen till tomorrow. First snag I put the radiator back in and added antifreeze/water while waiting for your reply and when I pumped the top hose to spread the antifreeze/water around I got a leak from the IAC. There is a gap 1/8" maybe a little more between the plate and the IAC but I figured it was because of that gasket in there. In the stock part that it attached to there was a cut out for it that it sat in so it was flush.

I also have it mounted vertically/sideways I going to try to get all the wiring done today ECU stuff and fans then take out the IAC take it off the plate make sure the gasket is in there good and maybe put Ultra black around the outside of the gasket area then tighten it down as much as I can, I hope with no gap. I did that last time but the gap was there. This time ( # 3 ) I'll mount it like it was in the stock position, with the water hoses on the bottom if I can, I think there is space to do that. I know you are not reading this till tomorrow, I don't think I need to call about it. I just hope to get the wires done today and the IAC out!

Have fun testing!!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

You don't use that gasket with the IAC valve on the 94-97. Just face to face. A thin wipe of ultra Black would be good but there is no groove for that o-ring. I think most of the 94-97 people just mated it face to face. However, There should be NO water coming out anyhow? The water circuit is seperate from the air circuit. Something is not right.

[inspector10k]

Glad you got to read this! That didn't seem right to me because there was no grove for it but in the instructions step 32 page 50 it says "Install the IAC with the four original screws and gasket to IAC adapter plate." So I did. You may want to change the instructions for that and on page 18 step 26 it says " Remove the four screws from the IAC and carefully remove the IAC so as to not damage the gasket. Use a razor blade if necessary to remove the gasket. Save IAC. gasket and screws for reuse."

Tonight I will use a small amount of ultra Black screw it down tight face to face and see how it works tomorrow. I just think it was because of the gap when I pumped the water it went anywhere.

I got things done at the ECU still need to run the hose and wires for the PC, SS and Spal fan in the firewall but I think I found the best place. It's looking good for tomorrow!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

For 99+ that is true. The hazards of cut and paste in modern technology. :) I'll fix both of those instructions in the manual. Thanks.

Aren't PDA's helpful? ;)

[99mx5]

Tom, what are you doing here? go have some fun in the 05 ;)

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I am. I have my PDA and can type as I drive. If I get close to hitting something Kathy YELLS real LOUD and I correct. ;)

BTW, it works flawlessly with altitude changes. I am currently at 7000 feet and we went through higs and lows getting here. A lot of it I just set the cruise and let it climb and dive the hills. Never changed more than 1 MPH according to the GPS on uphills One was about 5 miles of 8% grade and turns. Set the cruise at 70 and steered. :) Only had a couple YELLS on turns where I was typing one of the replies. A couple of 8% downhills needed a little help from down shifting.

Low 60s now and had ZERO CELs since I installed the VTCS actuator and modified the PC-Pro software.

[Kyp J]

I've never been through Higs. Where is it? Been to Lowe's for plumbing parts though.

I love it when you type on your PDA. So many opportunities for fun.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Kyp, The PDA has such little bitty keys and I have such big hands and the mountains were pretty twisty and she kept YELLING and insisting I put at least one hand back on the steering wheel and.........

[inspector10k]

SOOOOOOO CLOSE!!! If I didn't add the new fans I would have finished today. Super Charger wise all is done except the water bottle it won't fit with the way I have the IAC but a big bottle of Windex will. I going to have to find another plastic bottle that will fit in there and use that.

To be done all I have to do is connect two positive wires with inline fuse holders to the battery. Which is most of the reason I didn't finish today one of my inline fuse holders was missing the metal that it fuse plugs into, it was just rubber I also have to connect a wire to a switched ign wire. The fan don't use the stock wiring, it has it's own little brain box that work the fans.

I have to put the passenger seat back in, plug in the fuel relay and take it down from the jack stands. No matter what I don't see how I can stretch it out much more. With work there is a chance I won't get to it till Thursday afternoon but I'm going to try to get to it before then.

My ISP Optimum online was Optimum offline today, as soon as I see it's working I'll post this.

[inspector10k]

" IT'S ALIVE!!! " It took some doing, at first it would just crank like it wasn't getting fuel ( I still find it a little hard to believe there is not some priming method for after things have been totally disconnected ) I unplugged and plugged the fuel relay back in just in case it wasn't all the way connected but I think it was.

Still no luck then I remembered one of the connections at the back of the motor on the right/passenger side. At some point during the weeks of working on the car an Orange part of the connector had fallen out ( just seems to be like a spacer and I guess with it in there, there is no way for the metal prongs to touch each other ) anyway I had put in back in but when I did it never clicked together so again like with the MAF (I did get the MAF to click in after I got a better grip on it) I pushed it as close as I could get it I never heard a click but it stayed together and I put some tape on it to be sure. I took the Orange part out and was then able to click it together. Even without the Orange part in there I don't see how the prongs would ever touch each other and I'm sure it's in there for a reason but I couldn't get it to connect with it in there. Anyway after I did that IT STARTED!!!!

There are some problems, from spraying the header and cat bolts ( I may be putting a new exhaust in when I do the clutch in the next month or so ) there was some smoke from that stuff burning off. That didn't worry me too much because I had it happen back when I installed the headers there was a lot of residue and a lot of smoke.

I've only had the car running a few minutes ( less then 5 ) at a time. I don't know if I have to do that but other wise I get a lot of smoke from the residue on the header burning off and if I do it a little at a time I feel safer.

No fuel smell or leaks visible but I'll still be watching for that for a while.

The main ( minor ) SuperCharger related problem is that if I take my foot off the gas it stalls. I have not done any of the IAC and TPS stuff yet. I just think the idle screw is set too low and that's my problem. I can't adjust it with the Allen wrench, with the wrench in the screw it's up against the top of the throttle bracket and I can't move it and if I try to insert it lower so I can turn the screw it doesn't match up in the space I have to move it to insert in the screw. If I put a feeler gauge in-between it will idle fine till I rev it and it falls out. I tried grabbing the screw with a needle nose and turning it but was unable to.

Do they make Allen wrenches about 1/4 -1/2" long attach to a knob about Dime sized with something like that I could turn it easily. I just need to raise the idle a little then I could do the IAC, TPS stuff. Another thought I just had is maybe I could back the adjustment screw out and then try to move it forward again. Any ideas?

I have not driven the car yet, it's off the jack stands but the front is still up on ramps in case I had to adjust the Alt belt or whatever.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

So, how fast does it feel on the jack stands? ;)

Way to go. Sounds great. That screw is a bear.

[Dr Evol]

I used a dremmel to put a slot on the end of the idle screw. That way I can use a small blade screwdriver to adjust.

[inspector10k]

It seems pretty fast just sitting there idling! Well all the header stuff has burned off, there is still some excess anitfreeze smoking away but that should be gone soon.

My first try at setting my fans failed, there has to at least a 20-25 degree difference between the low and high setting. If not the three led lights on the brain box blink and the fans don't come on. I was just guessing with the low setting at just before the normal needle position and the high setting a little past 12 o'clock I'm going to let it cool down a bit disconnect the fans and try it again.

After I get the fans set I'll work on the idle screw and the IAC TPS stuff.

Yea, I install superchargers (er)

[inspector10k]

WOW, WOW !!!! Finally on the road, not 100% but in the short drives I did, WOW.

Don't try to go for your first test drive on a Friday night between 4:30 and 5:30! On the neighborhood roads couldn't safely do anything and it was traffic every place else I went but I got into Boost a little! Looked like 8 LBS in 1st and 2nd other times in higher gears and not as high revs more like 5 LBS. I was able to go from 25 mph in 5th gear with no problems. This is with a 110 MM pulley.

Still having fan problems, I made sure I had enough of a temperature spread today and still didn't work so I think maybe I don't have a good connection on the temp sensor wire or I'm connected to the wrong wire. One is a ground and the other is the one I need to connect to. I'm 95% sure I'm connected to the correct wire but to get to it I'd have to undue all the vacuum hoses take out the EGR valve and un zip tie all the connectors behind the coil packs which I don't feel like doing for a 4th time right now.

So I made a wire harness from the stock fan's connectors to connect the Spal fans to the stock wiring and I think I'll keep it that way till I do the clutch and then with the transmission out it will be easy to get to the temp sensor at the back of the motor from underneath.

I have not done all of step 53 yet, mostly cost I have some questions and it was getting dark. All I've done so far is adjust the throttle screw for no change with the IAC valve connector disconnected. What worked for me to turn the throttle stop screw is that I dremeled the Allen wrench so it's less then an inch long then put it in the screw ( it's like playing Operation ) then turn it with a needle nose between that and taking the throttle bracket off and using a longer Allen wrench I can move it but it takes time and you don't know if it's the right spot till you put it back together and try it.

So right now I do have some idle issues but I'm sure it's because I have not done all the steps yet. When I'm slowing down as I come up to a stop sign or light the idle goes up and down between like 1,000 and 1,800 rpm's and if I'm there for a minute or so it will come down to about 850 and stay there. Like I said I have not done the feeler gauge thing or TPS yet. I know I asked about that already and you gave an answer but again because of ISP problems I can't get online since around 8 pm last night. I understand putting the feeler gauge in, someone lent me a ohm meter but what should the resistance be between the pins for the Red and Black/Blue wires? Maybe this will be clear when I do it but when it says adjust the TPS until the contact just closes, what contact is this? Between the throttle and the throttle stop screw? Or is it an electrical contact and I'm looking for a number on the meter? Or is this a contact on/in the TPS?

Last question in step 54 where it says after driving the car for a few days to repeat the procedure. Is that just the IAC connector on and off or is it the whole thing adjusting the TPS again?

Sometime next week I should get the first VDB in the mail to you. I'm a week or two I'm post more info and pictures on my cardomain page and after I drive it a little more and I'm 100% done I'll be putting a post up at Miata.net about my experience too. I didn't want to do that till I was all finished!

Finally after my drive today I felt like I've done something!!!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

If your only problem is idle, rst assured that will go away after proper setup. One thing coldsides are noted for is stable idle if properly set.

You are looking for a contact closure with a continuity meter. It is a switch that is open off idle and closed on idle. Disconnect the connector and go to the pins that correspond to those two wires. They will be the two end pins on one end or the other. Put an ohmeter or other continuity device on the two pins and set the TPS for a contact closure (continuity) when in the idle position. DOn't worry too much about it for a couple days as long as it runs. Then do the procedure.

Congratulations on a well done install.

[inspector10k]

Thanks! ISP been offline again all day till now. I didn't think I was doing any harm but I didn't want to drive it too much till I knew for sure if that stuff had to be set first.

Now I know I can drive it first I'll go for a nice early Sunday morning ride then set it when I get back.

What would the normal boost range be? Can Boost gauges read high? I was at redline in 1st or 2nd and I thought I saw the needle at 10 today, could that be right?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Should run OK but maybe not idle. Boost should be around 10PSI and maybe a little more.