VTCS Codes

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

OK. I took the VTCS actuator off the stock IM and hooked it in line as per the original vacuum lines.


http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers.com/VTCS-Vacuum-Lines.jpg

There must be a second check valve and "vacuum chamber" that I didn't see. My guess is that the vacuum chamber is not very big. In any case, I will let you know if I get either code. 1512 or 1518. I actually get P2004 which, when I do the search, is the same as 1518. VTCS stuck open. I will let you know if this eliminates the problem. Now that I re0did all the vacuum lines (well, Ari did them for me) and all is tight, I get the code quite often. I really think it needs the ability to bleed off at the sensor and the valve might do it. That "Delay Valve" is now in my circuit. Maybe the 'delay' is important too?

[Kyp J]

I was getting those codes before I moved, had no belt on and seemed to have low vacuum. Since I picked up the car after moving, at low elevation, belt on and vacuum seems higher than originally at high elevation; i don't seem to have those codes anymore.

However, I still get a check engine light but when I check codes, it is "Zero" and a bunch of icons are flashing. I read my code reader book a little and didn't figure out what it meant yet. If you already know the meaning of this phenomenon (?), please tell me.

[sinuous]

Well I must be the lucky one for once.
Since putting the green and white thing back in the line..No More Codes.

Jared.
2001

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I think the check valve might be the answer. It seems there are two of them. One in the line from the manifold to the VTCS solenoid and one in line with the actuator (Delay Valve). I don't have the one in line from the manifold, just the actuator and delay valve.. :( Does anybody remember what the "vacuum chamber" was/is?

[Kyp J]

I put all the hardware leftovers in a couple of boxes that are now at the bottom of a pile of boxes containing Dodge truck and HD motorcycle leftovers. If I unpacked it all, I might never get it back into the boxes again. It would be easier to look at a stock car unless it is incorporated into and inside the stock manifold so its not visible.

If nobody else finds out, I could dig into the boxes.

I do remember at least 2 check valves and I don't have either one on now.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Thanks. Wait till I see if this woorks or not. It might be all I need.

[elerner]

I'm still running all the original VTCS piping, check valve and vacuum servo. The only time I get any VTCS codes is if the car happens to low idle too long when I first start it up, and that only happens maybe once a month.

I've only got one valve (Check, delay??). Its a green one, it's next to the vacuum servo and the arrow points away from the servo.

I actually got around to buying some more hose this weekend to try and swap out the original plumbing (maybe I'll get to it before it snows) :D

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Snow. We have had a cold snap out here as well. Two days in a row under a hundred. Had to dig out sweatshirts. Thankfully the cold snap should end today and get back into the 100s for some relief from the cold.

[Kyp J]

I didn't believe it when I was told that you get used to the heat. I've been in Texas for about 2 months, most of it over 100 with lows in the 80s and now that the days are only 90 and the nights get down to 60 (brrrr) it seems almost cold driving with the windows open when it is 75 about 9 am. Everything is relative. I don't want to be cold when it is 65 degrees. That is what I kept my house at in the winter in Reno.

[ThomS]

Tom I don't want to hear about your cold snap. You are breaking my heart. The days here maybe get to 69 this time of year, and the nights well as low as 50, not pretty.

I get the cell most of the time, and yes Jared you are very lucky. But I have to get this fixed for sure, because I have a emissions test hear and if I have had the code in the last few months I either have to show paper work that it is fixed or I will flunk the test and won't get my plates.

There are two valves one is green/white and one is green/black.
One I can blow into one direction and one I cant blow into either direction?
When I had them in they didn't help at all, But might not of had them in right spot. Hope we can figure this out before the next Aim test in Ohio.

I wish I knew more about the car then I do< but ? I also know many of you guys are working on this problemas best as you can.
The car and the supercharger are outstanding and working great.
Right Tom

[ThomS]

I know this is really a dumb question but here it goes.

What does the VTCS do for this car and why is it there?
Do we still use this item or are we tring to figure out how to trick the computer that we are still using this item?

Everyone talks about the vacumn lines working to well and that they didn't get the codes when thay had leaks in the lines, so I am ready to put holes in the lines to create that leak.

[elerner]

Linky: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTCS One thing not covered by that explanation is that it only closes the intake flaps when the engine is cold to help heat up the O2 sensor more quickly.

Thom, to ease your mind about the upcoming inspection, why not just put all the original stuff back on? The vacuum servo (thing that pulls the flaps) is easily removed from the stock intake and you've got the original hoses. Put it all back on and get it to the point where you've got no CEL's. Then you know you can pass inspection and you also know it's not anything else. Just my $.02

[ThomS]

Linky: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTCS One thing not covered by that explanation is that it only closes the intake flaps when the engine is cold to help heat up the O2 sensor more quickly.

Thom, to ease your mind about the upcoming inspection, why not just put all the original stuff back on? The vacuum servo (thing that pulls the flaps) is easily removed from the stock intake and you've got the original hoses. Put it all back on and get it to the point where you've got no CEL's. Then you know you can pass inspection and you also know it's not anything else. Just my $.02
I do appreciate your $ .02 but how can I put that stuff back on with the Sc installed? that might be dumb question and if so I am sorry. It is not an option to put the car back to stock. I do not have the stock intake on any more with the cold side SC. If I understand what you are saying I would need help to put on the servo. Can this happen Tom

[elerner]

When it was stock, the ECU didn't really know that the flaps in the intake were closing properly, all it knew was that the vacuum servo was moving the flap lever when vacuum is applied. So, if you unbolt the vacuum servo from the old intake manifold and hook it up to the VTCS hoses to imitate stock then the ECU is happy.

On my '02 this means a hose from the bottom of the VTCS solenoid to the Vacuum Distribution Block, a hose from the side of the VTCS solenoid to the factory "Y" splitter, one side of the "Y" to the VTCS sensor near the fendor, the other side of the "Y" to the Green check valve, the other side of the check valve connects to the Vacuum servo, and the Vacuum servo lever connects to...nothing. The arrow on the check valve points away from the Vacuum servo.

Evan

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

When you remove the actuator from the original manifold, it looks like the circled part in the first picture. It even has a "Y" connector on the end of the vacuum line. Simply cut the vacuum line between the solenoid and the sensor on the fendor and install the two open ends of the "Y" or, like I did, replace the Y with a T. Then stick the actuator someplace, anyplace, out of harms way. I have not had a CEL since I did this.

Thom, in your case, I think that line is already cut and spliced with an inline splice. All you should need to do is replace the splice with the two open ends of the Y.

http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers.com/Install/VTCS-1.jpg

http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers.com/Install/VTCS-2.jpg

http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers.com/Install/VTCS-3.jpg

[ThomS]

The check valve that you used in this process is the green /black one. Can you blow into either end of this valve? Mine I can not. Maybe it is blocked. I will do this tomorrow and let you all know the answer by this weekend.
Thom

[elerner]

Hey Tom. With all the stock stuff in place as you have it, have you ever tried removing the vacuum servo and capping the hose to it (leaving the green check valve in place)?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Hey Tom. With all the stock stuff in place as you have it, have you ever tried removing the vacuum servo and capping the hose to it (leaving the green check valve in place)?

I just installed it the other day. I haven't tried that. At the moment, I'll take anything that will make the CEL go away so I can pass CARB. I think it might need the bellows moving in the actuator to get away from the CEL. There is a time factor for the code. It tells the actuator to move and then checks the vacuum level (Pressure?) and then it tells it to turn off and waits a time period to see if the vacuum went away. Without the actuator circuit, the only way to bleed off the vacuum is to have a leaky system. Ours is tight. :)

[Kyp J]

Hey Tom. With all the stock stuff in place as you have it, have you ever tried removing the vacuum servo and capping the hose to it (leaving the green check valve in place)?

I just installed it the other day. I haven't tried that. At the moment, I'll take anything that will make the CEL go away so I can pass CARB. I think it might need the bellows moving in the actuator to get away from the CEL. There is a time factor for the code. It tells the actuator to move and then checks the vacuum level (Pressure?) and then it tells it to turn off and waits a time period to see if the vacuum went away. Without the actuator circuit, the only way to bleed off the vacuum is to have a leaky system. Ours is tight. :)

Can you post a picture of what all these parts look like? I can't remember anymore (I could leave that comment right there) where and what was connected on the stock setup.

[Kyp J]

Also, I will try this question again: What might be the cause of a "MIL" or "CEL" with a code of zero (0) and a few flashing icons. I get it right after starting to drive after resetting it. I haven't tried removing boost or disconnecting anything yet. The car is running like a (insert really fast sounding cliche' here).

I hooked up the SS and ecool for the first time. It made it go back to 10 -1 (I had it about 11.5-1) on low RPMS but keeps it under 13 to rev limit. It had been getting to about 13.5 by rev limit on just the ELF. This is the best it has been since I started on this project.

[ThomS]

Tom do you know what I should do with the check valve. Should the green/black one be able to blow into it, mine does not maybe it is blocked?
Or should I use the green/white one which I can blow into it in one direction? What is the purpose for the check valve now?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Kyp, It doesn't make sense but the best I can find is "P0000 No Self Diagnostic Failure Indicated". If there is no failure, why is there a code? Glad it is working well. You should be nicely over 200WHP by now.

Thom, I am just using what you see. Still NO CODE. :) At the moment, I would suggest you do what I did. Take that assembly off the stock IM and plug it in there like I did. Sit the other check valve aside in case we need it later.

[ThomS]

I will install these parts just the way you have it, and see what happens.
.
But Iam asking, is the check valve suppose to be able to let air pass through so it will leak out slowly once it gets to the VTCS acuator?? If so mine will not let that happen if it is plugged up and then what. I can not blow through the check valve at all.Should I be able to blow through it?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I went out and pulled that actuator line off the car. The Green and black device has an arrow pointing away from the actuator. If I suck on the line, the actuator moves so it must be working. Maybe you can't blow in the green end but you should be able to suck on the black end and have air flow.

[ThomS]

Well you are right again. I can not blow into the green end or the black end either. NO matter how hard I try. But I can suck on the black end and it moves the actuator. Don't understand but it works.. THANK YOU

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Now you know why the boss pays me the big bucks. ;)

[ThomS]

Now you know why the boss pays me the big bucks. ;)

I thought you were the BOSS> HMMMMMMMMMM :lol: :lol:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Tell her that. After 38 years, I have 'learned' who is the boss.

[ThomS]

Tell her that. After 38 years, I have 'learned' who is the boss.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

[ThomS]

Tom here is how I installed the VTCS actuator what do you think?[/URL]
[URL="http://upload4.postimage.org/1277529/photo_hosting.html"]http://upload4.postimage.org/1277529/Reunion016.jpg (http://upload4.postimage.org/1277523/photo_hosting.html)http://upload4.postimage.org/1277615/P9300004.jpg (http://upload4.postimage.org/1277615/photo_hosting.html)

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

email me the originals in full size of the second and third picture so I can blow them up and zoom in.

[elerner]

Thom, one definite problem I see is that it looks like you've got the hose running to the EGR Boost Sensor instead of the VTCS sensor. Perhaps you've got the two hoses swapped. The VTCS sensor has a round top and snaps into a metal holder. The EGR boost sensor is the one right next to the fender.

Tom, do you agree?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That's what I thought too but his codes went away? I couldn't tell completely as I can't tell which tube runs to the VTCS solenoid.

[Kyp J]

Please post a good picture, when you find one, of the exact parts to be connected vis-a-vis the diagram at the beginning of this thread.

I was searching for my fuel line tool and found my manifold stuff. There was a check valve in a short hose between two pipes in the (upper?) half of the manifold. Would that maybe be the vacuum chamber they spoke of? It went from the area just inside of the TB to a mystery area in the casting. I found where it led by blowing in it but forget where it came out since I didn't know where that went anyway.

I now have 3 check valve looking things. The biggest, a green bodied with black end that was in the location just mentioned. A smaller nearly spherical white bodied with green end and a small cylidrical blue bodied with black end. The black ends and the green end are the ones the arrows point to. They all pass air fairly freely in one direction and the white one sounds like a whistle.

I have no idea which goes where. If I ever find someone with a stock 2001, I will study its vacuum tubes closely.

I just replaced my fuel pump but now have a fuel leak in the hose for the ecool. (I saw it just before I swapped pumps so it wasn't related.) It must have been taken on and off too many times. I had to go buy some more hose and haven't driven it yet.

[ThomS]

Thom, one definite problem I see is that it looks like you've got the hose running to the EGR Boost Sensor instead of the VTCS sensor. Perhaps you've got the two hoses swapped. The VTCS sensor has a round top and snaps into a metal holder. The EGR boost sensor is the one right next to the fender.

Tom, do you agree?I can not get my pics posted. Sorry elerner

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Here are the pictures. It does look like the wrong location.

http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers.com/ThomS1.JPG

http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers.com/ThomS2.JPG

http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers.com/ThomS3.JPG

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Well, The car started flawlessly at 7000 feet and upper 40s. HOWEVER, it tossed a P2004 code which, for the 04/05 Miatas is the same as P1518 for the earlier ones. !@#$%^&*I(*&^%&*(*&*()*&^%$#@

[99mx5]

P1518 Intake Manifold Runner Control fault - Stuck Open ?

P2004 – IMRC stuck open, vacuum operated..

hmmmm....

[Kyp J]

Sounds like a sense line wants to come in delayed from another sense line and a race is being won by the wrong one, sometimes. Maybe an RC network to gnd with about 100 msec delay to hold the late one down if you could figure out which one. I used to know how to figure out the resistance and capacitance to do that back when they made stuff out of parts.

Can you put some arrows and labels on the pics to point to the parts as they are in the diagram? OOPs never mind, I must have missed the pics on the first page. I think someone inserted them after I looked there. Thanks for ignoring my request instead of telling me to "look on the first page, stupid".

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I still have the check valve NOT in my system that was there originally. I will have to go root through all the original parts and see if I find it. It was probably there for a reason. :?: They call it a vacuum chamber in the drawing too???

[Kyp J]

So it looks like ThomS should have the TEE in the line that looks to be a red and black line butt connected?

Which color check valve don't you have in the system (do you now have 1 or 2?) See my earlier post for a discription of the 3 I found. I could swear the one you are using to the vacuum actuator is the one I just found connected between 2 short hoses on the same piece of Manifold.

[ThomS]

Ok guys it does look like I have the " T " in the wrong hose, but I am not getting any codes :?:

Tom the line where you have the " T " where does the other end go , its hard to follow :?:
One end to the actuator one to the VTCS and one too ?
On a different note.

Still can not post Pics and now getting a new message. Invalid file error
and now the pics I did post are gone too.

[Kyp J]

Ok guys it does look like I have the " t " in the wrong hose, but I am not getting any codes :?:

Tom the line where you have the " T " where does the other end go , its hard to follow :?:
One end to the actuator one to the VTCS and one too ?
On a different note.

Still can not post Pics and now getting a new message. Invalid file error
and now the pics I did post are gone too.

I think I would leave it like you have it. If it ain't......you know.

[ThomS]

Ok guys it does look like I have the " t " in the wrong hose, but I am not getting any codes :?:

Tom the line where you have the " T " where does the other end go , its hard to follow :?:
One end to the actuator one to the VTCS and one too ?
On a different note.

Still can not post Pics and now getting a new message. Invalid file error
and now the pics I did post are gone too.

I think I would leave it like you have it. If it ain't......you know.

I think you are right, leave well enough alone.
But what I would like to understand is why Don't I have any codes with it hooked up this way?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I have the items in red and don't have the items in blue.

http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers.com/VTCS-Vacuum-Lines2.jpg

[elerner]

I've only got the things in Red as well, Tom. I'm trying to remember though, where does the VTCS solenoid get it's vacuum from? I was looking at my old intake manifold and saw another check/delay valve (green and white) on a short hose between the manifold halves. Perhaps the "vacuum chamber" is actually internal to the intake manifold and that green and white valve comes into play?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That green and white check valve is the one in question. Can you investigate your IM and see if there is a hidden chamber in there? Because the drawing shows that the vacuum starts at the IM (the big square where I start my red line) and goes to the check valve and then the "vacuum chamber". If it is in the IM, it must be a seperate section. Mine is stored at my sons about 25 miles from here.

I fixed the picture on the previous page to show the IM.

It ran soooo sweet up in the mountains and hot and cold and AC on/off. It was heartbreak to see that code this morning. It happened at the first couple seconds of start. The car stumbled and caught and that code popped. I hope just the check valve will cure it. Other than that I am sure it will pass CARB now.

[Serpico]

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=202052

Hope this helps....

[ThomS]

Tom I have the green / white check valve so far I don't need it. if you want I can send it to you. I might have the T in the wrong place but no codes so far. drove it again today and pretty hard. I also had a visit from Miles from detroit, Mich. he came down, we talked about the car and the SC
I took him for a RIDE. and he drove it he liked it very much And I hope he will calling you . He might want your Hotside instead, not sure.

[Kyp J]

Just an update on what my code situation is. I had a "0" code from my reader but from 2 others I have a P0012. That says the VVT is too retarded. Must be soaking thru from the driver. I found a Sevice bulletin that states 2001 has an ECU with bad logic causing erronious P0012 codes. The fix is a new ECU with repaired logic. I had an ECU replaced with the recall earlier in the year so that should have the better logic.

I tore down the valve cover and VVT stuff and checked valve timing. OK.

Will put back together tomorrow.

Still no return of the VTCS codes but I put on the vacuum actuator thing like Tom has (not Thom unless I get codes for that, then will put it like ThomS's)

[ThomS]

Well lets hope you get no more codes. What are you going to do about the P0012. Maybe the ecu needs replaced again. It should still be under warrenty.
Since that part has 8yeard or 80,000 mile warrenty from mazda.

[elerner]

That green and white check valve is the one in question. Can you investigate your IM and see if there is a hidden chamber in there? Because the drawing shows that the vacuum starts at the IM (the big square where I start my red line) and goes to the check valve and then the "vacuum chamber". If it is in the IM, it must be a seperate section. Mine is stored at my sons about 25 miles from here.

I fixed the picture on the previous page to show the IM.

It ran soooo sweet up in the mountains and hot and cold and AC on/off. It was heartbreak to see that code this morning. It happened at the first couple seconds of start. The car stumbled and caught and that code popped. I hope just the check valve will cure it. Other than that I am sure it will pass CARB now.

Here we go. I opened up the two halves of the stock IM. In the IM, there is a chamber formed by the two halves that looks totally devoted to the vacuum path for the VTCS. Vacuum is pulled through a passage in the top IM half, through the white/green valve, through the chamber, and then through the nipple on the lower IM half that connects to the VTCS solenoid. I don't know how you would duplicate that cavity (or if we need to). The correct placement of the white/green valve would be green towards the VTCS solenoid, white towards the "T" for the VTCS sensor and the VTCS vacuum servo. I'm not so sure having that check valve in place is going to make it 100% though. I ran code free for weeks with almost daily use. One morning it stumbled a little too long on a cold start and the code popped. It went away by itself in a couple of days. If there were some way to raise the idle on initial start and ensure there would be little to no stumble that might make it fool proof.

For sh*ts and grins, I took the vacuum servo off last Wednesday night and plugged the hose. I drove it Thursday and Friday but not Sat.-Monday and things looked good, but then it popped a CEL this morning with very little stumble on the cold start. I think the vacuum servo is part of the "dance" with the sensor. I put it back on.

[elerner]

Tom I have the green / white check valve so far I don't need it. if you want I can send it to you. I mihgt have the T in the wrong place but no codes so far. drrove it again today and pretty hard. I also had a visit from Miles from detroit, MIch. he came down, we talked about the car and the SC
I took him for a RIDE. and he drove it he liked it very much ANd I hope he will calling you . He might want your Hotside instead, not sure.

Thom, are you sure your CEL light works? I believe it should come on when the ignition key is turned on as part of the lamp check. Just wondering, since it seems weird that you're not getting any CEL's with the way you've got it hooked up.

-Evan

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I'm 'almost' ready to connect mine like ThomS. :)

[ThomS]

Thom, are you sure your CEL light works? I believe it should come on when the ignition key is turned on as part of the lamp check. Just wondering, since it seems weird that you're not getting any CEL's with the way you've got it hooked up.

-Evan

YEP. the light comes on every time I start the car. I know this because it scares the sh*t out of me. But it alwasy goes out. Now like you I have had this happen before where I drove it for a week and no codes, then all of a sudden pow. It has not been week of driving yet, but soon.
Thom

[elerner]

My CEL cleared itself after a day and a half of having the vacuum servo back in. So, for me having just the green delay valve and vacuum servo in place provides good results (green/white check valve not installed.

I wonder if you lower the manual idle the stumbling cold start will always happen so you could reliably reproduce the problem. Maybe the role of the vacuum chamber is to always supply vacuum immediately on startup or even before startup during cranking?

[Kyp J]

My similar codes went away when I put on the blower belt which also pumped the vacuum a bit and cured the idle dips. I didn't have the check valves or vacuum servo either. I put them on just to be safe, but I think the idea of the constant vacuum availability is probably the answer. Can you buy cans of vacuum like you can compressed air? Gas stations with suck hoses to refill the vacuum? (I know, you can get vacuum from the engine, I just like to imagine other options.)

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Well, I also studied the old intake manifold and it does, indeed, have a small vacuum chamber. I now have the check valve and will install it later today. At the moment, I am off to search Phoenix for either cans of vacuum as suggested or a large enough canister to hold ample amounts of nothing. I have a nothing pump here so I can easily fill it with nothing. I just hope it lasts longer than the bottle of water when I had WI. I wonder if I couldn't duplicate the vacuum chamber by running 4 feet of vacuum hose? The chamber didn't look to large.

Someplace in here, somebody posted which way that check valve should be installed in the line from the manifold to the VTCS solenoid. Anybody remember where?

[Kyp J]

I would think a small container capable of holding whatever negative pressure with appropriate sized in and out nipples, connected to the (edit: vac. manifold or the boost sensor, wherever the vacuum originally came from) via the green and white Czech valve pointed to the (edit: manifold or boost sensor) and the other connected to the solenoid switch input nipple with the output going to the servo via the green black valve. This would build vacuum and store it for when ever.

Edit: For the vacuum servo to release the flap in the original context, a full check valve wouldn't work it, would have to leak down. Maybe that is what they mean by delay valve. Is that the green and black one?

Also, I too had been thinking the extreme variability of this might be related to different cars having varying amounts of various stiffness vac. hose in the system. Cars with lots of stiff hoses may never see the code and short or squishy hoses may get lots of them. (Having trouble staying away from using "tubing" in my description.)

[99mx5]

Tom, maybe a small fuel filter in the vacuum line would work as a air chamber. Its basically a canister with 2 hose connections.

[ThomS]

I would think a small container capable of holding whatever negative pressure with appropriate sized in and out nipples, connected to the (edit: vac. manifold or the boost sensor, wherever the vacuum originally came from) via the green and white Czech valve pointed to the (edit: manifold or boost sensor) and the other connected to the solenoid switch input nipple with the output going to the servo via the green black valve. This would build vacuum and store it for when ever.

Edit: For the vacuum servo to release the flap in the original context, a full check valve wouldn't work it, would have to leak down. Maybe that is what they mean by delay valve. Is that the green and black one?

Also, I too had been thinking the extreme variability of this might be related to different cars having varying amounts of various stiffness vac. hose in the system. Cars with lots of stiff hoses may never see the code and short or squishy hoses may get lots of them. (Having trouble staying away from using "tubing" in my description.)

Tom or Kyp J why one one hand are you looking for a place to handle more vacuum or diving around AZ for vacuum in a can?
We just installed the VTCS actuator with the check valve in the line
to release some of the presure which it does well.
Again after the car sitting for a day and half it started well and went for long drive out to the wine country and back, NO CODES STILL. But always looking at the board making sure the Engine light goes out after start up.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Thom, It was a kind of a half joke, half serious comment. The original manifold had a 'vacuum chamber' and we were trying to duplicate that if necessary, to make this thing pass CARB.

There is no "vacuum in a can". This is more or less like going on a snipe hunt. I've been on several of those and carried two shotguns just in case but never found a snipe yet.:lol:

This time you are the lucky one. Works for you and not for us.

[Kyp J]

The fuel filter idea looks like a good one to me. If I had the codes I would try it. The little cone shaped things that go on a motorcycle should work.

[ThomS]

I understand it was a joke and so was I joking. What I was not joking about it that you somehow want to have more, or better vacuum. Before we were tring to let it leak out a bit.why the change??????????????????????????

[ThomS]

I would think a small container capable of holding whatever negative pressure with appropriate sized in and out nipples, connected to the (edit: vac. manifold or the boost sensor, wherever the vacuum originally came from) via the green and white Czech valve pointed to the (edit: manifold or boost sensor) and the other connected to the solenoid switch input nipple with the output going to the servo via the green black valve. This would build vacuum and store it for when ever.

Edit: For the vacuum servo to release the flap in the original context, a full check valve wouldn't work it, would have to leak down. Maybe that is what they mean by delay valve. Is that the green and black one?

Also, I too had been thinking the extreme variability of this might be related to different cars having varying amounts of various stiffness vac. hose in the system. Cars with lots of stiff hoses may never see the code and short or squishy hoses may get lots of them. (Having trouble staying away from using "tubing" in my description.)

Kyp J I have the squishy hoses and even though I have part hooked up wrong I am not getting the codes. It sat all day again and I just took it out for a short run and it started up no codes and it is only about 50 degrees out.
Thom

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I understand it was a joke and so was I joking. What I was not joking about it that you somehow want to have more, or better vacuum. Before we were tring to let it leak out a bit.why the change??????????????????????????

The original IM had a vacuum chamber and I thought maybe adding one to our system would bring it back to what it was. A small tank with a very small inlet and outlet might duplicate the stock IM?

[ThomS]

Tom Now thats a real joke. You don't have 93 octane out where you live. LOL. Well little over a fifteen hundred miles on the car since I changed the vacuum lines, and even though they are wrong still no codes. All have been done with cold starts under all kinds of conditions.And yes all lights on the dash are working.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

You have to earn more octane and boost by posting. I'm just more active. ;)

[ThomS]

You have to earn more octane and boost by posting. I'm just more active. ;)

I figured that but still thought it was funny, 93 octane.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I just want to know why you 'Easterners' get 94 for less than we pay for 91.

[Dr Evol]

I don't know, may be some type of government plot against Phoenixians. But here in NE Ohio they just raised the cost of 100 octane unleaded from $4.85 to $5.38. The cost of track days just went up!

[Serpico]

Be glad you don't live in MA/CT....

I pay 8.25/gl for 100 octane !!!!!!

[chuckerants]

The one station I know of near Firebird Raceway charged $5.99 /gal for 100 octane.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That station by Firebird used to be $5 per gallon when regular fuel was $2.50. Regular fuel went a little over $3 and the race fuel went to $6. Now regular is ~$2 and race fuel is still $6.

[Kyp J]

They probably haven't thought of posting a sign similar to the price for Lobster at restaurants. "Market price" Or in other words, "Whatever we think we can get."

[ThomS]

What does octane gas and its cost have to do with VTCS codes? I know I started it with the octane remark to Tom and I guess we have written all we can about VTCS.

[Kyp J]

What does octane gas and its cost have to do with VTCS codes? I know I started it with the octane remark to Tom and I guess we have written all we can about VTCS.

Ouch! Discipline. Ready for Miata.net

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

LOL. We have no moderators here so leniency is a bit broader here. :)

[ThomS]

Ouch! Discipline. Ready for Miata.net

Sorry I didn't mean it to sound like that...:(

[Kyp J]

Just kidding. More a comment about M.net having a bunch of hostiles and you might be ready to join them. (Not really)