Tapping wires

[Banshee]

Can you guys tell me which wires I need to tap to get the 12volt battery and accessory?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

What year?

[Banshee]

2001.

I'm also looking for the rpm wire and a/f wire.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

GRN/RED - ACC and Run

Front O2 sensor BLU

RPM can be either :

Crank Sensor GRY/RED

Cam Sensor GRY/BLU

Note that the crank sensor is 2 pulses per revolution and the cam sensor is 1 pulse per revolution. It depends what device you are connecting and whether it handles the 2 pulses or not.

[Banshee]

Which wire for the constant on 12v?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

BLU/RED is hot all the time.

[Banshee]

thx Tom, that helped a lot.

This is what I'm trying to hook up.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Swoosh-ART-Digital-Revsr-Shift-Light-Air-Fuel_W0QQitemZ8058093588QQcategoryZ72215QQssPageNa meZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

As you know, I am a gadget freak. Let me know how it works.

[Banshee]

Tom,

Do you know of any fuse in the fuse box under the dash that has constant on (even when the car is off) 12v?

I figure it would be easier to use a add a fuse tap there, instead of splicing wires. I think I'm going to use the cigarette lighter fuse for the accessory power tap.

Where is the easiest place to ground a wire?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

There should be a WHT/GRN wire going to the brake switch. It goes to what is called the "Stop" fuse. It is hot all the time. There is another one called the "Room" fuse. It has the BLU/RED wire coming from it.

Should be BLK wires running all over under the dash. They are Ground.

[Banshee]

What's the difference between switched and unswitched?

And does it matter for what I'm trying to do?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I would think that gadget only needs to be hot in the run mode. Does it say it requires a 'hot all the time' feed?

I am not sure about the definition of "switched" as you used it but typically, 'switched' means that it is hot when a switch is on. Like the wire that is hot in run mode or start mode.

I have all of my gauges on in run and start. I have nothing connected to a 'hot all the time' wire as that would e a drain on the battery even when the car is parked.

[Banshee]

The instructions states that it needs the following wires

1) 12v battery ( I assume this is the hot all the time wire)
2) acc (?Accessory wire) I assume this is the hot when on wire
3) a/f wire
4) ground
5) rpm

I assume the hot all the time wire is for the memory function, as you can set the high/low and shift light rpm, as well as the a/f level

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Just like the radio. It has a hot all the time to support the clock and pre-sets.

I think we have them all covered then.

1) 12v battery ( I assume this is the hot all the time wire) BLU/RED off the "Room" fuse to the radio.
2) acc (?Accessory wire) I assume this is the hot when on wire BLU/BLK off the "Radio" fuse. On in ACC and Run.
3) a/f wire BLU
4) ground BLK
5) rpm Either GRY/RED (2 pulses/rev) or GRY/BLU (1 pulse/rev)

[Banshee]

Success!!!

Works great. The a/f stays fairly constant at 14-15 at idle, and decrease on acceleration and increase on deceleration.

Easy rpm tap too. fairly accurate above 2.5k rpm.

definetly worth the $100 I paid including shipping.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Which RPM tap did you use?

[Banshee]

Gray/blue wire. It's dead on accurate above 2.5k, below that, it reads high.

At idle, my tach shows 950, but the meter shows 1.1k.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Ah. The CAM wire. I thought it would prefer that one. The SS modules do as well.

Great. Give it a few days and then we need a full report here. :)

[Banshee]

Do any of you guys have a problem with keeping the car running after a cold start? No problem if the car is warm though.

The car would want to die on me for the first min or so.
Never had this problem before. Just started yesterday after I hooked up the air/fuel meter. I don't see how the meter would have anything to do with it. Perhaps just coincidence. As a side note, I'm getting a little groan from the IAC.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Time to adjust your idle perhaps?

Plug and un-plug the IAC valve connector and adjust for no change in idle. Do NOT jumper 10-GND.

I hope that new device is not effecting the O2 sensor? That would effect idle as well.

[Banshee]

I don't see how it would as the car is running open loop rich when it cold start right? I'm seeing full rich from the o2 sensor for 30sec or so until the o2 sensor warms up.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Then try the idle adjust procedure.

[99mx5]

No 10-gnd in the idle adjust anymore Tom? Why?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

10-GND resets the ECU. What you want to do is find the spot where the ECU want's to be and set the idle there. You just can't win trying to fight the ECU. It has a mind of it's own, so to speak.

This method seems to work perfect. However, it takes a day or two for the ECU to learn so the first day, just get it close and drive it.

[Banshee]

Tom,

The little gadget works great. Obviously a wideband will be better, but for a narrowband sensor, its pretty cool. Seems acurate as well. Would fluctuate around 14-15 at idle and cruise, goes lean on deceleration and goes rich on acceration. Its a steady decline and incline too, not just jumping to full rich or lean.

The other function is the shift light. It has 2 different colors. (3 actually, one for a/f you can set it to warn you at a certain ratio if you wish).

You can set it for 2 different rpm. I guess one to warn you that shift point is comming, then one to shift. The only thing I noticed is that the rpm seems to be a little slow in response, a few miliseconds. So I just compensated for it by setting the shift point a little lower. Works like a charm.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I wonder if you can set one light as the up shift and one as the downshift? One at 7000 and one at 5000, for example?

Price wasn't too bad either.

[Banshee]

The way it works is once you get pass a certain rpm, one light would go on and stay on, once you get pass the next set rpm the second light would flash and beep.

I guess if you train yourself to down shift when the first light turns off while decelerating or braking, it could work like that.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Might be handy for track racing. Right now I just have the one light and set it to turn on ~7000. Gives me time to push the clutch before it hits cutoff. Great for the 1/4 mile. On the track a downshift light would be nice to have.

[Banshee]

Can you guys help me with the following?

I want to hook up the device to turn OFF when the parking brake is applied and turn ON when the parking brake is release. Any ideas on how to do this? The device have the standard 12v power wire and ground wire.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

The BLU wire goes to ground when the parking brake is on. I suppose you could ground the meter to that wire?

[Banshee]

The BLU wire goes to ground when the parking brake is on. I suppose you could ground the meter to that wire?

Wouldn't that cause the device to turn on when the parking brake is pulled up? Because that would complete the circuit right?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

DOH!

Yep. :oops:

[Banshee]

Turns out the a/f meter was responsible for the eratic coldstart problems I was having.

What color wire is the parking brake light hooked up to?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I believe the dash has it's own micro-computer and the lights are driven by it.

[Banshee]

I guess I'll use the blue wire from the hand brake. It goes to ground when the hand brake is pulled up right?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

You could pick up a simple 12VDC relay from Radio Shack or other place of choice and wire it to swt=itched 12 and the parking break wire for ground. Then, the relay would be on in Park and off when not in park. You could then use the NC contact on the relay to run the meter. The contact would be close when the brake was off which would, in turn, turn on the meter.

Just curious why you want the meter controlled by the parking brake?

[Banshee]

The meter interferes with the coldstart for the first 30 sec or so. The car wants to stall during this time. When I disconnect the meter, the coldstart is fine. No problems. Since I always park with my parking brake on, I figure that when I start the car, the meter would be off. Only when I'm ready to go, will I release the parking brake and hence turn on the meter. Hopefully by then, the car would be out of its coldstart mode.

I could easily hook up a toggle switch to the meter, but I don't want to manually turn on and off the meter.

Ideally, I would like to hook it up to a timer so that it turns on 1 min after receiving power, but I just don't see a simple way of doing that.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

A simple time delay relay from Radio Shack would cure that.

[Banshee]

That's awesome. Didn't know they made such a device. I take it that it comes with different timers?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

RS may be a bad choice anymore for time delay relays but any GOOD electronics supply house has them and a lot of electrical supply houses too. You want simple and cheap . Not sure where to send you anymore? I used to use that stuff all the time but not in years.

[Banshee]

Tom,

You wouldn't happen to know what color the high beam wire is do you? The wire inside the cabin.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Looks like the white wire.

http://www.fastforwardsuperchargers.com/Headlights.jpg

[Banshee]

Last question, I swear...

Is there any fuse in the fuse box that is hot in both run and start position, but not in off position?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I think we should chip in and buy you a manual. :)

BLK/WHT off of "engine fuse" would do it.

BLK/YEL "Meter" fuse

BLU/WHT "A/B" fuse (Anti-lok Brakes)

I would go for the A/B fuse if you don't have A/B

[Banshee]

awesome, thx.

I found a relay switch with a timer, but the damn thing got a trigger. No way to by pass it. So what I got to do is hook up the a/f meter to this fuse, then hook the trigger to the ignition wire so that it sends a signal to trigger the relay to start the timerwhen I start the car. Damn complicated. But I think I finally got it all figured out.

[Banshee]

Victory!!!!!!!!!!! :D

Finally got everything working right. Solved my cold idle issue. Thanks Tom for all your help.

[Kyp J]

How was meter causing idle problems???? If I remember, it was a combo gauge of some sort. Loading the voltage supply wire used somehow?

By the way, Banshee, I have some info about boost pressure and VVT. I will post it on the other thread.

[Banshee]

Its a combo gauge, digital air fuel (Very accurate for a narrowband), and 2 indepedent shift light. I highly recommend it if you're not going to get a wideband.

It takes the narrowband a/f voltage from the car's cpu. For some reason (I haven't figured out why), but it would mess with the cold start up idle. Causing the car to keep drooping to 500 rpm for the first minute. After that, the car ran fine. With the little time delay relay, I was able to keep it turned off for the first min hence bypassing the cold start issue. All is well again.