Install questions for my 95 with AC

[oe_tuner]

Well, I am 4 days into the installation of my coldside kit for my 95 Miata.

The nuts and bolts part of it is not so bad (aside from the 4 bottom intake nut install).
The wire and hose routing is killing me though. I have had to buy a lot of fittings and mock things up several times to come up with placements for the IACV and the VDB that allowed for a reasonable routing of hoses and such. I am super picky about hose and wire routing. Finally I have decided to ditch the washer bottle and mount the IACV and VBD to the Washer Bottle Brkt.

I have several concerns that I have run into that I would like some feedback on.

1. The bypass diaphram hose is making hard contact with the larger AC pipe right where the hose connects to the diaphram.
Is this typical?
I am concerned about engine movement damaging the plastic diaphram case when it is being pressed against the AC pipe.

2. How are you guys routing the fuel lines.
My factory steel feed line is pointing right at the bypass linkage with only about an inch between them. Are you bending the pipe up or down?
The feed line on the car is facing rearward, the 5th injector is at the front. Due to EGR valve clearance issues, the FPR has to go in the front of the fuel rail and the feed is going in the rear of the rail. Where are you putting the T-fitting and routing the hose to the rear feed and the 5th injector at the front? Where did you route the hoses? I am thinking of running the 5th injector hose under the manifold. Also, there is a sensor on the AC pipe in front of the 5th injector that is only about an inch away from the injector. Have any of you had problems with the hose rubbing on this sensor? It seems really close to make the hose bend around to it without rubbing.

3. Are any of you having to bend your EGR pipe? I am finding that the EGR pipe/valve adapter plate is rubbing hard against the fuel rail. Is this normal?
What fitting are you using to feed the fuel into the back of the rail to guarantee clearance between the fuel hose and the EGR pipe. I really don't want my car to burst into flames if they touch and hose melts. I was also thinking of wrapping the end of the stock EGR pipe with some header wrap to keep the fuel hose safe from the heat. Any of of you try this?

4. I am trying to run an electric fuel pressure gauge. I thought I was going to put the sender in the fuel rail, but there is just no space. Are any of you running one of these? Where did you put the sender?

I probably have more questions, but I cannot think of them now.

Thanks!

[bogey]

You have hit the exact same issues I had when I installed...

1. The AC lines can be "gently" bent out of the way. There is a plastic clip towards the rear that can be removed, then the lines pulled down out of the way. I had the same issue and concerns.

2. I placed the fuel line T at the top of the line that comes up from below and branched a line forward and under the cannister for the 5th injector, and the one to the back goes to the rear of the fuel rail. The FPR mounts on the front and plug the side hole on the fuel rail. The return line from the FPR can run along the front of the manifold and loop back to the return line.

3. I had no clearance problems on the EGR line. I don't really remember bending it. Did you loosen the other end?

4. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, you could T it on the fuel line to the 5th injector or to the rail. Possibly attach sensor to the side of fuel rail, but clearance is probably a problem.

I moved the IAC to between the shock tower and radiator overflow. The bracket that has two other sensors can be used. Use the post in the center hole, and drill two other holes inthe bracket. I did not use the vertical standoff bracked on the IAC. The other sensors then get moved a few inches towards the front. My VDB is on the firewall, and the washer bottle is shoehorned in.

My engine does not move enough to "hit" anything, although tolerances are pretty close. I was concerned, but I have not had any problems with rubbing (yet?).


Make sure you check your FPR before putting everything together. If you can blow air through it, it must be replaced. Check the "Install Tips" forum and change the date to look at older messages. There are several gotcha that can be avoided.

[oe_tuner]

Bogey,

Thanks for the reply and advise.

I am excited to get this install finished, but the devil is in the details.

I will post some pics of the install when it is finished.

Best Regards!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Bogey,

It appears that we have two problems. The first is the EGR. Do you have some pictures of yours? Shawn's is touching the fuel rail and the Throttle Body. I checked my 99 as it has a fuel rail for test and I find that it is very close but not touching and I have more than an inch between the TB and EGR. Your help is greatly appreciated.

The second problem is the TPS and I am working on that one. It appears that Shawn's TPS adaptor is offset too much and, when installed, presets the TPS so much that it hits it's stop before the BTB gets WOT? That one I will resolve today but am curious if you had that problem? I assume that you can get the throttle plate to open all the way?

[bogey]

Here are some photos of my install:

http://www.thebogarts.net/imagelib/SCpics/Engine%20bay.jpg
http://www.thebogarts.net/imagelib/SCpics/egr%20tps.jpg
http://www.thebogarts.net/imagelib/SCpics/egr%20clearances.jpg
http://www.thebogarts.net/imagelib/SCpics/IAC%20installation.jpg
http://www.thebogarts.net/imagelib/SCpics/EGR.jpg
http://www.thebogarts.net/imagelib/SCpics/Throttle%20body%20area.jpg

Sorry they are so big, but I have not had time to make them smaller. At least they have a lot of detail!

My TPS allows the throttle to fully open. Make sure the little arms in the TPS sensor are set on the correct side of the flanges. You need to put the TPS sensor over the flanges and rotate it to align the mounting holes which will press against the spring. This may be the problem.

The EGR pipe has plenty of clearance behind the engine. I routed all the wiring above the EGR valve. You may need to remove the triangle sensor from the top of the EGR valve and rotate it 120 degrees so you have clearance.

The photos do not really do justice to the installation. They look like a mess of spaghetti, but it really is not that bad compared to the stock lines.

Let me know if you need any more pictures.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I went up to Phoenix today and picked up a stock TB. The tabs on the stock TB are right at 90* with the mounting holes. Ours are at 140* with the mounting holes. I don't remember why we rotated it so far but I do remember that we spent a lot of time confirming that it fit. There was a real good reason at the time for the difference. I do remember that we tested the TPS and it would calibrate with those dimensions. The TPS is like $200 but I will drive back up tomorrow and get one to test fit again. I no longer have the one I borrowed from Dan Brisco for the design. He needed it back to make his car run. :)

Shawn, if you try again and it works, let me know tonight so I don't have to buy one. If I don't hear from you by morning, I will assume it still doesn't work for you and I will go get one.

Ken, thanks for the pictures.

[oe_tuner]

Bogey,

Thanks for the good detailed pictures. It is really good to see how others are making this kit work in their car.

I see that you are running the Fuel Feed to the top port rather than the rear (horizontal) one. My EGR is not sitting where yours is mine is sitting more forward when the crossover pipe sitting comfortably. If I change my fuel feed to your position, maybe I could force it back to where you have yours. Did you have to flip the EGR pipe brkt on the rear of the engine to get that position? I was considering rotating the connector on the top of the EGR valve like you did, but I was scared that it might damage the valve. Now, I think I will try it. That will free up a bit of space behind the valve. I currently have no space between the EGR electrical connection and the Brake Booster pipe.
I mounted my IAC on top of the Washer bottle/Fuse Box Brkt. My EGR solenoids are not mounted up where yours are. Mine are mounted down right next to the SC bypass linkage. I had to slot the holes in the Brkt and pull it outward and flip the solenoid that was closest to the linkage to get enough clearance between the linkage and the solenoid coupler. Eventually I will change over to the ABS type windshield washer bottle that is mounted up by the driver side headlight.
I got the SC bolted to the manifold tonight and got most of my hose routing figured out. I will try to post pics soon. I am excited to get this thing wrapped up soon.

Tom,

Thanks for working on fixing the TPS trouble.
I confirmed again tonight on the stock TB and BTB and I am 100% positive that the position you have the actuators positioned in the kit will not work with my TPS. My TPS cannot recover the 50 degree difference in the initial position. It has internal stoppers in it, so that at about 3/4 throttle, the TPS hits its stops and prevents further rotation. Also, as I mentioned in my email, I had to shorten the center nub on the actuator because it was bottoming out on the center if my TPS before the TPS would seat fully on the BTB.

Thanks!!!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I will run up to Phoenix after lunch and pick one up and see what happens. I apologize for the trouble.

[bogey]

Gee, I did not notice how sloppy my photo taking skills are! I can see my hand in one, and the camera strap in another! :blush5:

[bogey]

Did you have to flip the EGR pipe brkt on the rear of the engine to get that position?

I did not change anything on the stock EGR pipe. It mounted right up and hung in space. Once I attached the small pipe to the throttle body adapter, there it sat.

I was considering rotating the connector on the top of the EGR valve like you did, but I was scared that it might damage the valve. Now, I think I will try it.

Just remove the three screws from the top, lift off and rotate. It does not fall apart into a bunch of small parts.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Well, I am convinced that Shawn is right and your TPS doesn't work Bogey. I picked up a TPS and it pre-loads so far that the throttle plate won't open all the way.

Bogey, would you remove the TPS and take a picture so I can see the angle of the two tabs when the throttle is closed? I would be grateful. We did make a new batch but they are per the drawing. I'm still not sure where the problem lies.

Thanks

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

http://www.fastforwardsuperchargers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=418