TPS adaptor problem

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

It looks like Philip, Shawn and Brian have the improperly cut TPS adaptors. Please do not try to install them as they may harm the TPS.

There were 25 in the last manufacturing batch and it looks like four of them got out. The next one back was Ken but he reports that his works. Sometimes we leave one at the shop so it might have been the fourth as there was one there. The problem stems from a revision to the drawing at the shop that didn't make it back here. So the last batch was manufactured from the original drawing, not the correct drawing. My apologies for the error. The shop will cut new ones early next week and I will overnight them to those who have the incorrect part. Once again, my apologies.

[bogey]

What am I looking for on my TPS? When I open the throttle by hand, the bail the cable is on rotates nearly 90 degrees (maybe 85+). I think this is full movement.

I hate to take off the TPS to take a photo because I finally got it adjusted perfect.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

If you're happy, I'm happy. :)

I will 'assume' you got the last of the old batch. I have three to replace then.

[bogey]

I assume 90 degrees means the throttle opens fully. :)

[oe_tuner]

Tom,

Thanks for doing your Dick Tracy work so quickly.

I am glad I was not crazy. I hope to have the install wrapped up this weekend.

I look forward to getting the replacement TPS actuator.

Thanks again!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Ken,

Yep. 85-90 degrees would be right. the wrong TPS limits travel to ~60 degrees.

Shawn, Thank you for your patience and understanding. I will have it overnight to you as soon as I get them. I was going to re-slot a couple of the ones in stock. It would have been cheap and quick but I don't like 'bandaids'.

[oe_tuner]

Tom,

Could you double check the other problem I had with the TPS bottoming out on the center nub on the adaptor before it seated on the mount?

It looked like the center nub was about 2mm too tall on mine.

Thanks!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That was actually done on purpose to make a snug fit to the one we had as a sample. However, the variation is too great so we will take ~0.100" off of it. Better a fuzz loose than too tight.

[Kyp J]

That was actually done on purpose to make a snug fit to the one we had as a sample. However, the variation is too great so we will take ~0.100" off of it. Better a fuzz loose than too tight.

Another new technical term. Is a "fuzz" bigger or smaller than an "RCH"? If it is around .1" it must be a lot bigger. Maybe around 5 RCHs. Not being a machinist, I don't know all the measuring terms.

[oe_tuner]

Tom,

What's the ETA on the TPS adaptors?
I think I will have the car buttoned up this Saturday and I am excited to start it up.

Thanks.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I am supposed to have them tomorrow morning and will overrnight for Saturday delivery.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That is the most expensive TPS adaptor in the world. :) Round trip to Phoenix and back to get it and $80 for next day air and Saturday delivery but you should have it tomorrow morning.

Let me know if it has any problems. We added one more design change. You will note two flats on the major diameter. That is to make life easy to index it for the Bridgeport. That little part is done on three machines and three seperate operations. It starts life on a CNC lathe, then a CNC Mill and that last slot is done on the bridgeport.

[amgkid]

Why use the bridgeport when it's already in the CNC mill? Anyway, thanks for overnighting it. I'm 3/4 through the install and looks like tomorrow will be the day it runs.

Phil Ly

[oe_tuner]

Tom,

Thanks for getting the adaptor out to me.

I got it this morning. Seems like it fit perfect.

I managed to get the Engine room all buttoned up today except for the MAF wire extension.

Stuff always takes longer to do than I hope it will though. My Strut bar was hitting the Throttle Cable Brkt, so I had to spend time trimming things. It is still tight, but I will have to see if it hits when the engine moves and adjust from there. I made a really slick support Brkt for the Th. Cable Brkt. I will send you some pictures.

A couple of wires in the interior and it should be ready to run.
There is still the gauges and stuff to put together too.

I hope to post some pictures of the engine very soon.

Thanks again!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I sincerly apologize for sending improperly cut parts to begin with. Glad the new ones fit properly. We spent some time Friday at the machine shop and deleted any old files/parts they had on their computer so that particular problem won't happen again.

I know the problem with "stuff takes longer". The FFS hotside kit is running slow. :( Hopefully the 2006+ MP62 Miata coldside will not be too delayed.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

BTW, Philip just asked me if there was a spot to pull the E-cool wires and vacuum tube through the firewall on the passenger side. Where did you pull them? Any other 94-97 people that can make a suggestion?

[BlownMX5]

BTW, Philip just asked me if there was a spot to pull the E-cool wires and vacuum tube through the firewall on the passenger side. Where did you pull them? Any other 94-97 people that can make a suggestion?

There's a large rubber grommet on the passenger side that has a big wire loom already going through it, just poke a hole with an icepick or something and shove it through, then you'll be able to grab them from behind the glovebox.

Pat.

[amgkid]

Interesting, I'll give it another look. Thanks!

Phil

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Thanks for the quick response. You guys are great.

[bogey]

My Strut bar was hitting the Throttle Cable Brkt, so I had to spend time trimming things. It is still tight, but I will have to see if it hits when the engine moves and adjust from there. I made a really slick support Brkt for the Th. Cable Brkt. I will send you some pictures.

I found that my strut tower would not clear the bracket either. I left the STB off and thought about it for a week. Then I realized I could flip it around and mount it forward. Took the mounts off and put them on the opposites sides. The bar is moved forward about 6 inches.

A photo is here. http://www.thebogarts.net/imagelib/SCpics/Engine%20bay.jpg. This may be an option to suggest in the installation manual.

[oe_tuner]

I was thinking of flipping the STB too, but it may make trouble with my wire harnesses. Something to think about though.

As for the Harness routing and Boost Tube, I used the one on the passenger side. It is easy to get to if you pull out the Fuse box brkt. There is even a little nub on it that you can cut off and a little hole is left behind. If you pull out the Passenger seat, you can pull back the carpet and run the wires and tube through the factory tube and clips.

[oe_tuner]

Well, I tried adjusting my TPS tonight and could not understand why I was not getting continuity. So, I took off the TPS and I could make it work just fine. It turns out that the TPS adapter is still not cut at the correct angle.
If I set the TPS to a position where I am between continuity and open, I can only see the edge of the bolt holes in the adapter on the BTB. :mad:
I think I am going to unbolt the mounting adapter and drill and tap 2 new holes, so I can get the TPS adjustment finished.
Tom, you shold really double check the specs on these parts.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

We took a BTB, adaptor and TPS. Bolted it all together and adjusted the cut so that it would switch with the screws in the center of the slots on the TPS. That turned out to be the same angle as the first batch of 15 that we made a year ago. Not sure I know any other way to do it. We also measured the angle between the blade and screws on the stock TB. It was the same as near as we could measure it.

[bogey]

You probably did this already, but make sure you "preload" the spring in the adapter? The arms need to be on the correct side of the throttle tabs. Place it on there and rotate it until the spring is under tension. If the arms are on the wrong side of the tabs, it will not align enough to trip the continuity on/off.

[oe_tuner]

I assembled it correctly. The problem is that I have to preload it far enough just to get the bolts caught that I cannot un-preload it enough to find the continuity/no continuity point.
I will try to take more pictures tomorrow when I tear it apart to modify the adapter on the BTB.
Ugh.

[oe_tuner]

Here are the pictures.
I had to drill and tap 2 new holes in the adapter to get the TPS in a position where I could find the Continuity/Discontinuity point with the 035 feelr gauge in the Throttle Stop.
It seems weird that I would be the only person to have this problem with the latest batch of parts. As you can see at the sweet spot, the bolt hole is barely visible throught the slot in the TPS. With my new holes, I was able to hit the sweet spot without any trouble. The bolt is now almost centered in the TPS slot.

[bogey]

Your photo is tiny and out of context, but it looks like the TPS adapter is on the opposite side of the throttle plate as mine. See http://www.thebogarts.net/imagelib/SCpics/egr%20tps.jpg.

My TPS in inboard of the throttle, your appears to be on the outside. Where does the throttle cable attach?

Reversing these coud explain the difference in the cut.

[oe_tuner]

Sorry the pictures were small. They are as big as this site will host. I am now trying to host them on Yahoo, so the full size pictures will be available. I hope the links below work correctly. As far as the context, I tried to name the photos appropriately.
Anyway, first I double checked the TPS setting on the stock throttle body with an 035 feeler gauge in the throttle stop to see where the bolt holes landed in the TPS slots. The 2 photos labeled stock show the results. When the meter in the picture shows OL that is the position that I get discontinuity. When the meter shows a decimal value or 0.00, that is the position I am getting continuity. I am trying to show the position of the bolt holes in the TB for the TPS at this adjustment condition.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/oe_tuner/photo/294928804216025508/6
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/oe_tuner/photo/294928804216025374/10
On the original FFS adapter, you can barely see the bolt hole in the corner of the slot in the TPS. The TPS is on the left next to the meter. The black sliver in the bottom corner of the slot in the TPS is what you can see of the bolt hole in the FFS TPS adapter These are the pictures labeled FFS Continuity/Discontinuity.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/oe_tuner/photo/294928804216009907/12
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/oe_tuner/photo/294928804216016971/7
I drilled and tapped 2 new holes in the adapter that allowed me to get the TPS bolted down when it was adjusted correctly with an 035 feeler in the TB stopper. The holes I made are the ones closer to the edge of the adapter next to the ones that are centered on the ears.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/oe_tuner/photo/294928804216025420/9
End result:
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/oe_tuner/photo/294928804216025433/8
I followed the 1.8L enthusiats manual which said the set the TPS using an 035 feeler and set the TPS to the sweet spot right on the edge of continuity/discontinuity.
My TPS is on the inboard side of the TB just like yours.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/oe_tuner/photo/294928804216019150/3

I think that one of the adaptors was not made to the correct spec, so that the correct adjustment was impossible with the bolts installed through the slots in the TPS.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Just so you know, you are not crazy. There is an error in the replacement TPS adaptor. When we found the drawing problem, I thought we were all done. We even added the flats so the machine operator for the slot couldn't miss. HOWEVER, the angle was supposed to be 40*. The CNC set it for 40* but from the wrong side and it cut 50* (90*-40*). Then the mill operator set it to the flats and cut the slots. I don't know what else to do but apologize. They are making new ones AGAIN.