Tuning the PC-Pro on a '99

[happychap]

I've had my PC-Pro on for a couple of weeks now and it has definitely been helping but it seems it has been running lean at WOT. Today I installed my A/F gauge and Boost gauge. At WOT the A/F would go completely lean. I turned the yellow/blue and red/blue up to 5,6 & 7 but still got the lean so I then tried 2 & 3 in case i was soaking the o2 sensor. I still had the same issue. So I put the yellow/blue & red/blue back to 4 and have now got the green to 2, the yellow to 2/3 and the red to 2/3. Now the I get a rich condition all through the RPM range. It does seem to drop to lean around 4000 for a brief moment but that could of also been the road as it wasn't very smooth and I think the dip could of been a little loss of traction.

I have had to disconnect the Boost/vacuum gauge as I was only ready a 6 on the vacuum at idle and there was a distinct whistling coming from the gauge. I have a feeling my compression connector at the gauge is leaking causing the low reading.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Ian,

Make sure the vacuum line to the PC-Pro is secure. If it isn't accurately seeing boost, it might go lean as well. Did you dissconnect the gauge before or after tuning? I like to see the boost gauge connect as close to the PC-Pro as possible so that it sees what the PC-Pro sees.

[happychap]

I'm pretty sure the PC-Pro is seeing boost as I accelerate the blue LED comes on.

I disconnected the boost gauge before tuning. The car was running like crap with it connected. I am tying the Boost gauge into the Y connector at the PC-Pro. I did have a problem initially with it as the autometer boost hose is a smaller diametre than the PC-Pro hose. I used a piece of rubber hose to splice the hoses together. Not the best option but I wasn't sure how else to do it.

It's nice to even have the option to tune.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I am concerned that it see all the boost. If the engine sees 10 PSI but there is a small leak at the PC-Pro end, it might only see 6 PSI, for example. That would make the fuel lean.

[happychap]

I'm planning on getting the boost gauge problem figured out tomorrow morning I'll let you know what I find out.

[chuckerants]

Definitely check the vaccum lines. Especially at the all the "T"s. The one time I had a problem with the PC Pro, it turned out to be the vacuum line into the boost gauge as well as the "T" into and out of the PC Pro.

I swear I thought Tom was going to slap me on the back of my head when I found the problem as we couldn't figure out what my problem was. :eek:

[happychap]

I got the boost gauge leak fixed, It was my join between the autometer hose and the existing hose. I had used a peice of rubber hose over them both and then zip tied it to clamp it to the hoses but it was leaking from there. To fix it I used several layers of heat shrink. This has fixed the problem as the vacuum now reads a steady 18" Hg at idle and the car will make 5psi of boost.

Chuck, from reading another thread you have the same boost gauge as I (Autometer ATM-3301), what did you use to connect the gauge into your system?

[chuckerants]

If you mean how are my gauges attached to my car, I ordered the 1 DIN 3 gauges panel from Thomson Automotive. I originally ordered the 1 DIN 3 gauge panel from eGauges, but it was so flimsy, I tossed it in the trash.

The Thomson Panel is sturdy and it snaps into the space where my radio was. It is now my gauges, my radio, then my HVAC controls from top to bottom.

[happychap]

No I meant how did you tie in the smaller diametre hose from the autometer boost gauge into the existing system? It won't plug into the quick connects so I wondered how you got around that.

[chuckerants]

Ah.

Well, the Autometer gauge came with a small diameter hard plastic hose that uses a compression fitting to connect to the gauge. From the gauge it goes to a plastic T.

On the T, one end goes to the gauge. The line from the gauges connects to the T using a softer plastic hose that goes over the hard line from the gauge.

The other end of the T goes to the PC Pro. I can't remember how that is connected to the T though.

The last part of the T is where the vacuum line from the intake manifold is connected. That line is also Teed off for the Split Second.

I can try to take a pic of that T in a day or so after my back recovers from working on my car today.

I can tell you though that the T is where all of my problem always originated so be very careful about using a big enough lines to connect into those plastic Ts.

[Scuba Steve]

No I meant how did you tie in the smaller diametre hose from the autometer boost gauge into the existing system? It won't plug into the quick connects so I wondered how you got around that.

I used a small diameter piece of vacuum hose to connect the two different sized pieces of hard plastic. Before sliding the hard plastic into the vacuum hose, I wrapped electrical tape around the plastic to make it thicker and then used tie wraps to tighten the vacuum hose.

[happychap]

Thanks for the tips, when my way fails I'll try one of your suggestions.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

In the tuning instructions for the PC Pro I was a little confused:

"
To move the entire fuel curve up and down push the mode button until the yellow and right side blue lights appears and adjust it. That will keep the flat fuel curve but move it richer or leaner across the board.

http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers....lue_Adjust.wmv

Then press the mode button until the red and blue lights are on together and adjust the red to the same point as the previous yellow-blue.
"

Does this mean the yellow/blue and red/blue need to be at the same setting to have a flat fuel curve? Or is just the yellow/blue used for the adjustment of the entire flat fuel curve and the red/blue for skewing it at high rpm? The instructions could use a little clarification on this. Also it might not be a bad idea to state the default or suggested values to start with in the instructions for the different model years. For the '99-'00 Tom informed me that the defaults are:

green, yellow, and red all at 0
flashing yellow/blue at 4
flashing red/blue at 4

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

The yellow/blue does raise or lower the 'curve' all by itself. The red/blue is independent and raises or lowers the upper end of the curve, changing the slope from flat to more or less fuel at the top. One is independent from the other. Green, yellow and red are somewhat independent of the yellow/blue and red/blue. They add fuel in the 1200-3000, 3000-5000 and 5000-7000 RPM ranges respectively.

I thught I had that someplace? Sorry.