Any advice or experience on engine removal / rebuild?

[mageep]

My 99 is running perfectly fine, without a single issue at just under 80K miles.

So, let's pull that sucker out and tear it apart! :rolleyes:

Seriously, it's due for the new timing belts and water pump anyway. Plus I wanted to make it stout for 225+ hp (I hope)... So engine removal / rebuild seems the only way to go for what I am after. The parts are coming in...

- .5mm overbore 9.0 pistons
- Carrillo Pro A-Beam rods
- New ACT Stage 1 clutch
- All the other standard rebuild items. seals, bearings, etc...
- Maybe some port-work?
- Machine the crank?

The blower buy comes when either the IRS gives me back some of my money, or the local guy finally comes to pick up the Impreza wagon he's buying, so I fugure if I start the motor by next weekend, the timing should work out well...

Sooo, a few things...

- Anyone have general advise about things that make life easier, things to watch for, etc.? I've done American Iron and bike rebuilds, but I read a post on some other forum where a guy who's done 6 other rebuilds (3 American, 2 Brit, and one Honda) claims this was the most complicated he's done??

- Would it be easier to do the CS install OUT of the car, or on the car, or no difference? I was guessing out of the car?...

- lastly, anyone interested in participating in the extraction, rebuild or reinsertion? I live in Massillon, Ohio, and have large quantities of Guinness in the widget bottles.... mmmmmmm.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Install the CS manifold out of the car would be a blessing.

I would go ACT stage 2 for that system. I just like it better.

My method foe engine removal and replacement is to take it to Mike and say "Here it is, do it. " :)

[Kyp J]

Well......I pulled my engine out last year because I cooked it at the track. Coldside with no improvements in cooling and too stupid to pay any attention to the stock gauge. Since then I hear the stock gauge doesn't give much warning.

I haven't pulled many engines. It is a lot lighter than a big block corvette but seemed a lot more complicated in terms of how many things that had to be removed, but not beyond my retarded abilities. I'm 64 years old and had 2, 67 year olds helping me on the day of actual pull and the day of install.

The biggest problem for me on the install was aligning the transmission straight with the engine as they were being mated. they were at an angle with horizontal so had to be jacked a little, pushed a little, etc. I was afraid of tweaking the clutch disc if they got in a bind.

If you are going for over 250 hp I assume you are going hotside so I can't give an opinion on when to do that install. If it was a coldside I would definitely recommend installing the intake manifold out of the car due to the lower bolts. That is the only thing I would do as far as the blower is concerned. If you are thinking of doing a coolant reroute and want the thermostat at the back the way the engine was originally designed, it almost has to be out of the car to accomplish, plus you may have to have some additional head work done unless you can find a thermostat housing with a heater outlet pre thermostat and pointing the way you want the main hose going. The stock thermostat housing pointed the wrong for me on the back end of the engine.

If you PM me with an email address I can give you some pictures. I can't get them on this forum. I've tried.

Another thing to do while the engine was out on mine (don't know about 99s because I think the header and down pipe are different) was pull out the header and down pipe together after it is taken off the head. (If you are going to change exhaust) The bolts for the down pipe were impossible. I put new studs in and used bigger nuts and it is still nearly impossible in the car.

I had the head ported somewhat and 9:1 Wiseco pistons put in with the first size over stock to accommodate the cylinder honing. They were scraped up pretty badly. I used the stock rods which the builder balanced with the pistons and had a 3 angle grind on the original valves and new guides. It only had about 25K miles and the guides were sloppy. Everything else except the water pump was good. Used all new belts and hoses. Make sure you get a complete gasket set that includes all seals. I ordered a head gasket and didn't know I had to order all the other stuff so I ended up with an extra head gasket because the set comes with it.

The builder was a high performance race engine builder for the local drag racers etc. (where I used to live) and had never rebuilt a little thing like mine and was way impressed with the crank in the stock engine. I don't know what you could do with the crank to make it better except some initials Tom was throwing around the other day. It seems 2001s have something that helps prevents crank flexing that a 99 wouldn't have. I forgot what it was so you might find that out.

Hope this rambling helps in some way.

[mageep]

Install the CS manifold out of the car would be a blessing.

EXCELLENT. Kind of what I suspected.

I would go ACT stage 2 for that system. I just like it better.
OK... I am in no position to disagree from personal experience. I was going from input from Brian at Good Win when I placed the order, who said the pedal effort on Stage 2 was a significant step-up, and that up to 250 hp / lb-ft, the Stage 1 was adequate?

My method foe engine removal and replacement is to take it to Mike and say "Here it is, do it. " :)

I'm not sure this is a convenient option for me? Unless Mike lives in Ohio?? LOLOL

[mageep]

The biggest problem for me on the install was aligning the transmission straight with the engine as they were being mated. they were at an angle with horizontal so had to be jacked a little, pushed a little, etc. I was afraid of tweaking the clutch disc if they got in a bind.

Since I am doing the clutch, I figured I'd pull the engine AND tranny together. I have seen where it is actually easier to re-install as one connected part, please easier to do the clutch outside the car!...

If you are going for over 250 hp I assume you are going hotside so I can't give an opinion on when to do that install. If it was a coldside I would definitely recommend installing the intake manifold out of the car due to the lower bolts. That is the only thing I would do as far as the blower is concerned. If you are thinking of doing a coolant reroute and want the thermostat at the back the way the engine was originally designed, it almost has to be out of the car to accomplish, plus you may have to have some additional head work done unless you can find a thermostat housing with a heater outlet pre thermostat and pointing the way you want the main hose going. The stock thermostat housing pointed the wrong for me on the back end of the engine. No... going Coldside per Tom's recommendations on the other section of the forum, but apparently I need to read up on coolant re-routing? Is that any system, or just Hotside?

If you PM me with an email address I can give you some pictures. I can't get them on this forum. I've tried. I will PM you...

Another thing to do while the engine was out on mine (don't know about 99s because I think the header and down pipe are different) was pull out the header and down pipe together after it is taken off the head. (If you are going to change exhaust) The bolts for the down pipe were impossible. I put new studs in and used bigger nuts and it is still nearly impossible in the car. I understand... Somehow I got lucky when I did the header on my 94. I soaked the studs for 2 days in PB Blaster before I so much as turned a wrench, and they backed RIGHT out with a little grunt. The aft-cat O2 gave me more difficulties! LOL


Hope this rambling helps in some way.
Absolutely! Thanks a ton...

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I had the Stage 1 and it was adequate but grabbed too close to the floor for my taste. I installed the Stage 2 and it is more than adequate but grabs in the stock location. The Stage 1 is like stock pedal pressure and the Stage 2 is stiffer.

Remember, the ACT specs are for CRANK HP/Tq, not wheel. Whatever you are going to do at the wheels, crank is +30 to 40.

[FormerDatsun510Man]

One thing I will tell you all, do not use the ACT XT unless you like gorilla leg press pedal effort! It engages near the floor, causes the shifting to be clunky, and goes through slave cylinders once per year! I will say though it has never slipped LOL. When engine #2 goes in either I will use an ACT HD (which I think is the same as the ACT Stage 2?) or I might just use a Spec 2 as a local guy here has one and I really like it as it feels like stock. Seems to hold his Uber's torque with no issues now for over 75k miles with no problems so I think I am weighing towards it. Of course, having adapted to the ACT XT in my car I have found the ACT HD to feel like stock also LOL!

Bill

[dazooom]

Just picked my car up after having a SPEC II installed. I had one of those in my car before putting in a Mazdaspeed clutch, because the SPEC II, chattered. (Never had the flywheel turned). dumb...dumb..dumb. Then, the darn Mazdaspeed clutch started slipping, because it couldn't take the power! (232/220)

Well, had the flywheel turned this time, and this SPEC II, is smooth as butter, and absolutely no chatter! And it does feel like OEM!

[mageep]

re: cooling... I plan to upgrade the radiator. Any thoughts as to whether a 37mm KOYO would be sufficient, or is a 53mm necessary? Again, not living in AZ, but AM autocrossing it, and occasionally it DOES get hot at some of the locations we visit. If the 37mm will do, I'd of course prefer it (less liquid weight!!):devil:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Big is good. Bigger is better. Unless you are looking to do an A/A IC, I like the 55mm.

re: cooling... I plan to upgrade the radiator. Any thoughts as to whether a 37mm KOYO would be sufficient, or is a 53mm necessary? Again, not living in AZ, but AM autocrossing it, and occasionally it DOES get hot at some of the locations we visit. If the 37mm will do, I'd of course prefer it (less liquid weight!!):devil:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I have had both and my findings are that the stage 1 (HD?) is like stock pedal pressure but grabs close to the floor and was kind of on/off. It also tended to squeek. I drove my car to ACT in California and they tried a couple things but the squeek was still there and it only moved the engagement point a little higher but was still annoyingly close to the floor. The stage 2 (XT - extreme?) has the heavy pedal (high clamping force) but grabs at the normal position and is easier to control.

One thing I will tell you all, do not use the ACT XT unless you like gorilla leg press pedal effort! It engages near the floor, causes the shifting to be clunky, and goes through slave cylinders once per year! I will say though it has never slipped LOL. When engine #2 goes in either I will use an ACT HD (which I think is the same as the ACT Stage 2?) or I might just use a Spec 2 as a local guy here has one and I really like it as it feels like stock. Seems to hold his Uber's torque with no issues now for over 75k miles with no problems so I think I am weighing towards it. Of course, having adapted to the ACT XT in my car I have found the ACT HD to feel like stock also LOL!

Bill

[FormerDatsun510Man]

It sounds to me like the Stage 2 is the ACT HD and the Stage 1 is something that is even lighter. I recall the HD has a pressure plate with 33% more clamping pressure than the stock pressure plate and the XT has one with 66% more clamping pressure. They both use the same ACT performance clutch. So the Stage 1 sounds like something even lighter than the HD. I am pretty sure you would hate the XT :).

Bill

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

First one came in a box labeled ACT HD. Second one (in the 99 for the last 35,000 mikes) came in a box labeled ACT XTREME (XT). I think they only make two versions. When I move back and forth with the 99 and 05 (stock clutch) I have to re-learn how to drive. ;) The real problem with the 99 and XT is the light flywheel. I would never do that again.

[mageep]

Stage 1 and 2 may just be Brian's names for the ACT systems...

Here is what he refers to as 'Stage 1'
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/15-1020.html

In the text, he also points out that his 'Stage 2' is the Extreme...