Air Intake Relocation Question?

[sbeck37923]

I am working on installing the coldside kit in my 99 Miata. I work slow (going on 2 weeks now). I got to point of routing the air intake under the supercharger. I have a few questions or thoughts. This looks like it will make changing the oil filter a real pain in the future. Does the air filter just lay in the splash pan or do I need to cable tie it to something. The real point and question is has anyone tried moving the purge canister, washer bottle, and radiator overflow tank to the driver side of the engine bay? Would this allow enough room to route the air filter around the passenger fender side of the supercharger up top? This would leave the air filter behind the passenger headlight. If necessary you could manifold the 2.50" line down to two 1.75" lines (or three 1.50" lines) then manifold it back up to 2.50" for the MAF and the filter. This would maintain the same cross sectional area. Is there a downside to this or is it even possible? It would only require some different hoses and a couple of brackets. Should I just give up on this idea and order an oil filter relocation kit? Thanks...

[Kyp J]

I'm not a math whiz so I can't reliably argue the numbers about cross sectional area, in fact I thought about trying multiple tubes to get air from behind the fog lamp (2001) and figured it was not enough area but I may have been wrong, I usually am. Also, I thought the flex tube was 3".

There have been several attempts at putting the filter in other areas. You might find some of them on the SOT forum if they still have all the old posts from BRP. Some put them in the area of the wiper arms and cut holes in the separation above the firewall. It takes some work with various tubing alternatives. Miata.net may have the same info. The original idea (I think) came from a company that made kits some time ago and had a picture on their site of the filter on the drivers side by the wiper arm. I can't remember the name but it was in Florida. The car had a license plate reflecting the name of the kit.

The benefit of the remote oil filter makes it worth it regardless of the air filter issue. I didn't like it at its original spot mainly because of the sloppy mess it made. With the Thompson, you don't have to spill a drop of oil and it takes only a few seconds to change the filter. Just get the front end up hill a bit and wait a few minutes for it to drain back to the engine. Some say to poke a hole in the filter end to allow it to drain back better.

[sbeck37923]

I was basing the 2.50" value on the internal diameter of the MAF.

[amgkid]

How critical is the length of the tube from the throttle body to the MAF? Does it have an impact on performance, driveability, etc? I am thinking that a stubby version that is close to the firewall work might work just as well. I fear the next time I am going to change the oil filter. It already is a pain to remove in stock form.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I did a test for the RHD guys and dropped a silicone elbow off the BTB straight down. Connected the MAF to the elbow and the filter to the MAF. No noticeable difference, so I left it there. Been there for a couple months.

[Kyp J]

I did a test for the RHD guys and dropped a silicone elbow off the BTB straight down. Connected the MAF to the elbow and the filter to the MAF. No noticeable difference, so I left it there. Been there for a couple months.

Does that mean the filter is way further up in the area of the oil filter or did you extend the tube down to the alternator area?

Re the original question, I was searching the "other" forum and saw a lot of your old posts about alternate locations for a cooler air filter spot. I couldn't find the one I remember about going through into the lower windshield area with some actual pictures of them. Do you know if any of those were successful? I know I don't have enough unobstructed firewall space to do that now, but during initial installation and moving a lot of stuff around it may be possible.

[Wayne-n-Fla]

Try a search over there for "cowl induction" one CS owner made a "cold Air" box and mounted it with the air filter inside to the firewall with several holes to allow cool air from in front of the windshield

[Wayne-n-Fla]

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=198810, If the link dosen't work , do the search here

[Kyp J]

I found the cowl induction threads but didn't find the examples of the filter in the actual windshield wiper cavity (cowl?).

Wayne, do you know of the FL based miata supercharger company that may be out of business now, but he had an extreme high horsepower coldside set up with all kinds of extra stuff crammed in the engine compartment and also had a coolant reroute that I got my idea from, running the coolant from the back up past the exhaust header? He had a filter in the drivers side cowl I think.

I like Gord's idea though. I just couldn't see enough room to run the big tube through that area on mine.

[Ronin]

...FL based miata supercharger company that may be out of business now, but he had an extreme high horsepower coldside set up with all kinds of extra stuff crammed in the engine compartment and also had a coolant reroute that I got my idea from, running the coolant from the back up past the exhaust header? He had a filter in the drivers side cowl I think...Here's (http://biggulp.home.att.net/Aboutbigulp.htm#Some of the latest pictures of Big Gulp 8/29/04) the link. Photo's are from 2004 and are part-way down the page. Please note that this guy is not actively working on kits for Miata's anymore.

[Kyp J]

Thanks that was it. I just wanted to refer "Sbeck####" to that method. However, I saw some who said that area is actually a low pressure area unless you do something to force air into it.

I think Gord's idea is the best and I just re looked at mine and I do have room. I think I was trying to stay further from the tire but as long as I don't drive in the gravel it should be OK. Now if I can find more of that 3" tubing....

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Does that mean the filter is way further up in the area of the oil filter or did you extend the tube down to the alternator area?

It is straight down. 90* down off the back of the BTB to the MAF and then the filter. They hug the firewall. Works great. With two of the 90* elbows, you could probably 90* off the BTB to the passenger fender, then 90* again towards the front with the filter. Just eliminate or move the water bottle.

[Banshee]

Here's (http://biggulp.home.att.net/Aboutbigulp.htm#Some%20of%20the%20latest%20picture s%20of%20Big%20Gulp%208/29/04) the link. Photo's are from 2004 and are part-way down the page. Please note that this guy is not actively working on kits for Miata's anymore.


Ah, Big Glup. So much potential. I wonder what happened to him. He fell of the face of the earth right when things got interesting.

I notice that he's running a stock radiator with that setup. Impressive.

[Banshee]

Tom,

Have you considered doing a 3" MAF?

http://biggulp.home.att.net/frankenmaf1.jpg

http://biggulp.home.att.net/frankenmaf2.jpg

[sbeck37923]

Here are a couple of pictures of what I had in mind. Note that it is just laying in place at the moment. Does this seem ok?

[Banshee]

I don't see any advantage to laying it on top. Seems to be more trouble than it's worth.

Perhaps Tom can make a custom silicon hose ala Flyin miata and route it where it is currently. It will take out all the ridges from the flex hose, and wouldn't transmit too much engine heat. I'm sure a lot of us would upgrade.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I bought a sophisticated one that was programmable and loaned it to the guy developing the ELF for that other company and never saw it again. However, that shory piece of small tube has little effect on the air flow.

Tom,

Have you considered doing a 3" MAF?

http://biggulp.home.att.net/frankenmaf1.jpg

http://biggulp.home.att.net/frankenmaf2.jpg

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Wasn't me, I promise you Tom. I didn't know there was a big MAF over at BRP when I was working there... if I did I would have definitely tried it :). From what I understand, the landlord or whoever cleared out the shop, took/removed everything that was left in the shop when BRP was cleared out. There was a lot of stuff in there from what I heard. I had a lot of parts from my car that were in there that I was planning to get when I had a chance, but unfortunately didn't make it back up there in time.

Bill

[FormerDatsun510Man]

Here are a couple of pictures of what I had in mind. Note that it is just laying in place at the moment. Does this seem ok?

I like it! I would probably do something like that if I had a Coldside because down here in New Orleans we have flooding fairly regularly. Plus where you plan to put it would keep it away from dirt and other road debris and make changing/cleaning the filter a lot easier! And of course the access to the oil filter is made better.

Bill

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I sent it to Chuck (? the ELF guy) but I don't have a way to contact him and ask him to return it. If you know how, get him to send it and the software to you. After you figure it all out and make it work, send it to me. :)

Wasn't me, I promise you Tom. I didn't know there was a big MAF over at BRP when I was working there... if I did I would have definitely tried it :). From what I understand, the landlord or whoever cleared out the shop, took/removed everything that was left in the shop when BRP was cleared out. There was a lot of stuff in there from what I heard. I had a lot of parts from my car that were in there that I was planning to get when I had a chance, but unfortunately didn't make it back up there in time.

Bill

[sbeck37923]

The primary reason for this proposed location was to allow access to the oil filter without dumping oil all over the MAF when changing oil. More protection from water was a secondary concern. I will probably mock some stuff up this weekend, and try to machine a few brackets at work next week for the washer bottle, and the pruge canister. I am going to study and see if the coolant overflow bottle needs to be moved also.

[Kyp J]

I sent it to Chuck (? the ELF guy) but I don't have a way to contact him and ask him to return it. If you know how, get him to send it and the software to you. After you figure it all out and make it work, send it to me. :)

I don't know any names but Stephanie Turner at Bell Engineering told me she knew the guy who made th ELF and got an answer for me regarding it. (Same answer as the SOT site. "It is almost done.") Maybe she would tell you how to contact him. stepht@bellengineering.net

[GO MAN GO]

I like this.
I was thinking of this idea myself, Tom.
Just a 3" 90? how long? and where do you have the temp. sensor located?
I'm guessing you had to cut the BTB side shorter than the down hose or no?
---------------------------------------------------
It is straight down. 90* down off the back of the BTB to the MAF and then the filter. They hug the firewall. Works great. With two of the 90* elbows, you could probably 90* off the BTB to the passenger fender, then 90* again towards the front with the filter. Just eliminate or move the water bottle.

[Race Grandpa]

I have been looking at various pictures of this mod.

However, I do not believe I had seen a picture of this mod done to a 97.

It seems that where ever I look to put it other than below the alternator there is not any room. Maybe there is a way to get it in by moving the water bottle.

But I can not see :1eye: how it can be done

Maybe it does not make much of a difference by moving it to the top of the engine bay. :confused:


Your thoughts are appreciated.

[snakebit]

How about doing something like this - http://www.revlimiter.net/mods/coldside_isolator.html - but instead of the NACA duct in the 1st gen headlight, cut a hole below the back of the NB's headlight to allow air in from the already vented fender liner? (Look at the liner; it's slotted.) I.e., duplicate the factory cool air feed that is on the driver's side over here on the passenger side. Looks to me like the easiest routing would be to simply extend the hose forward from where the filter is presently located, then 90* up and 90* towards the headlight area. That's a lot of bends but it would avoid having to relocate the evap canister and maybe even the puke tank could stay put.

If someone could post some pics of their FFSC coldside install that would help. (Tom, you really ought to have some linked to your home page.) I don't have mine - yet - saving up for it.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I found a 3" to 2.5" 90* elbow that is even better but, alas, the 2.5" MAF would NOT go into the 2.5" elbow. :( SO, I have now ordered a 3" to 2.75" elbow. It should be here today or tomorrow. On my 99, I put a 3" to 3" elbow and it has been there for ages. No problems so far.

They come from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/category.php?cat=14&osCsid=971bda4402a31bb447f833c4464ba54c and are very high quality couplings. However, they don't stretch (which is a good thing but it means that 2.5" is 2.5". :)

[snakebit]

What do you think of this intake routing: http://www.bellengineering.net/Images/P1222824.JPG? What I wonder is that it increases the throttled volume considerably; what would that do to the throttle response? Since E-cool does such a good job of keeping intake air temps down, maybe Tom's idea of just dropping the filter straight down from the TB is best. I would happily trade 5 hp or so for great throttle response.

[snakebit]

Now i'm wondering if I even understand "throttled volume" correctly.:blush5: Is it the air going to or coming from the TB? The name would seem to indicate the latter . . . .

[Wayne-n-Fla]

Now i'm wondering if I even understand "throttled volume" correctly.:blush5: Is it the air going to or coming from the TB? The name would seem to indicate the latter . . . .
THROTLE VOLUME= the Vol.of air from the TB to the intake valves;
Stock= TB+IM
C/S= TB+SC+IM
H/S= TB+ SC+ {IC & or PIPING} + IM
I don't think the length of "hose" between the filter and the TB matters much ust as long as it isn't restrictive.

[snakebit]

THROTLE VOLUME= the Vol.of air from the TB to the intake valves;
Stock= TB+IM
C/S= TB+SC+IM
H/S= TB+ SC+ {IC & or PIPING} + IM
I don't think the length of "hose" between the filter and the TB matters much ust as long as it isn't restrictive.
Thanks, got it!

[carlb]

What do you think of this intake routing: http://www.bellengineering.net/Images/P1222824.JPG? What I wonder is that it increases the throttled volume considerably; what would that do to the throttle response? Since E-cool does such a good job of keeping intake air temps down, maybe Tom's idea of just dropping the filter straight down from the TB is best. I would happily trade 5 hp or so for great throttle response.

Won't the air in that design be heated along the way? This may be particularly so because it looks like there's contact between the intake tube and the valve cover.

Someone made another comment on the potential dead air if you put it throught the firewall into the bottom of the windshield area. Would that really matter in a supercharged environment? I really understand that sentiment with NA (where ram air really has an impact). But, with supercharger shouldn't it suck the air in without problem?

[snakebit]

Won't the air in that design be heated along the way? This may be particularly so because it looks like there's contact between the intake tube and the valve cover.

Someone made another comment on the potential dead air if you put it throught the firewall into the bottom of the windshield area. Would that really matter in a supercharged environment? I really understand that sentiment with NA (where ram air really has an impact). But, with supercharger shouldn't it suck the air in without problem?Yes, both your concerns are valid. I am leaning towards something more like this: http://forum.miata.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=25809

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That's pretty clean.

[Kurt]

Tom,

Let us know how the new elbow works out. I am seeing intake temps upwards of 160 and it is only May in Ohio :sweatdrop:

Any relocation away from the radiator has got to be an improvement.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

A long time ago I bought a Radio Shack battery indoor/outdoor thermometer (~$10) and stuck the sensor all over under the hood. The coolest spots were down on the pan and didn't seem to vary much anyplace down there.

I will post as soon as I get to test it.

[rlyneis]

Well?
Any results? Or has this moved to another post?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Maybe Ari will post some pictures. He has been doing all the design/testing. When we tested mine, there was zero WHP gain. I was mostly doing this for the RHD guys as the big hose doesn't fit with the clutch master cylinder in the way.

[GO MAN GO]

What I ended up doing was leaving the original supplied air tube to the MAF
then I put on a sililcone reducer on front of the MAF, (from the sight Tom posted), to 2" PVC. I piped it through a hole I cut in the plastic under cover,
into the hole in the passenger wheel well behind the passenger fog light and
removed the fog light.... Ram Air,.. but, it has a way to travel. I'll try to get
some pictures up, just not sure that I'm finished. I wanted to get the MAF
right behind the filter in that little area behind the fog light hole put it's
gonna require some tight plumbing with too sharp of angles for flow I think?

What I wanna ask you guys is, where do ya'all have your air temp sensor
located? Right now mine is sitting up in the windshield washer reservoir
area. and I want to get it down in the new filter area behind the passenger
fog light hole.

Jared.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Most of the time it goes in the end of the air filter. Some nice cool place is good too. As the IAT temperature goes up, the ECU reduces fuel. A nice cool spot can avoid that. :)

[99mx5]

How does this look? ;)

[99mx5]

Another shot from the bottom.

[99mx5]

Shielded from the wheel well.

[99mx5]

Top view showing clearance to firewall.

[snakebit]

Here's another idea: how about using the stock air box? After looking over all the options mentioned here and elsewhere, it looks like this is by far the easiest to do. All you need is about 7 feet of intake plumbing - out from the TB and back under the oil filter just like in the kit, but then continue it back up around the front of the SC and over across to the stock air box. You could probably do all or most of it with a good long piece of the same corrugated hose that's already in the kit. Make some heavy wire S clips to control the radius of the bends. It wouldn't be beautiful, but I'm a function-oriented guy.

Would all that intake length significantly impede airflow?

My mine objective is hydrolock prevention, as it can flash flood severely where I live. Could even run a Randall cowl induction from the box for cool air and insulate the hose to reduce heat soak.

[snakebit]

K&N Apollo: http://www.knfilters.com/universal/apollo.htm. IF it fits, put it and the MAF under the SC and route the intake wherever you want. I think it's about 9" diameter and 10" long. Found it on eBay for $225.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I can supply it in any length for $6 a foot.

[rlyneis]

Hey 99mx5,
Is that a 180 piece of silicone tubing? It looks clean!
Does it really matter how long (within reason) the MAF is from the TB?
With the MAF located as close to the AF, does that decrease turbulence?

[mx5jmcb]

Very nice 99mx5!....i might very well go for something exactly like what you got, what are the exact parts need?

[99mx5]

Thanks! Its a long leg 90 degree elbow with an angle cut. The long leg is required because the MAF is brittle plastic and will get damaged if it rubs on anything. It is located below the shelf of the firewall under the intake manifold. The MAF is the same distance to the air filter as before. The inside of the elbow is smooth and should help flow. The added bonus is that access to the oil filter is easier than stock.

[mx5jmcb]

Thanks! Its a long leg 90 degree elbow with an angle cut. The long leg is required because the MAF is brittle plastic and will get damaged if it rubs on anything. It is located below the shelf of the firewall under the intake manifold. The MAF is the same distance to the air filter as before. The inside of the elbow is smooth and should help flow. The added bonus is that access to the oil filter is easier than stock.


Is it the same K&N filter as stock or smaller?

Hard to say by the pics, looks smaller and was that 90 degree elbow bought from Tom's link :

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/category.php?cat=14&osCsid=971bda4402a31bb447f833c4464ba54c

?

THanks!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

The filter is a special oval filter. The elbow is from a different place because we needed one with one long leg. We will get part numbers and where to buy up as soon as it is finished.

[rlyneis]

So the whole setup is only one 90 degree? And the MAF and AF are now verticle?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Yes. I have been running a similar setup in my 99 for most of 2007. Ari is making it a production version.

[rlyneis]

Will pre-production customers qualify for discounts?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

We'll put up a list of what to buy and where to buy it and you can get the parts for the same price I do. These are small volume parts and I don't get any discounts.

[Steve]

K&N Apollo: http://www.knfilters.com/universal/apollo.htm. IF it fits, put it and the MAF under the SC and route the intake wherever you want. I think it's about 9" diameter and 10" long. Found it on eBay for $225.

I just got one of those to play with. My initial thought is a 90 off the TB and run the hose into the wiper tray. (Don't need a washer bottle since I don't even have wipers.) Only concern is if the assembly is too long it will run into the fuse box, so plan B is to add a second 90 to turn it forward.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I would LOVE to have my air filter in my wiper tray. When you figure it out, I may follow you. Not for the cooler air but for the sound. Having the filter in the tray right in front of the driver would be music to my ears. It should really scream there.

[Wayne-n-Fla]

It should really scream there.
Actually it would SUCK like like a muscle car of the 60's , well ? thats what the Randell Cowl induction tube I had on a M-1 reminded me of.

[Mark]

I created my own Randal back when the car wasn't blown. Used a piece of aluminum dryer tubing and put a hole in the firewall to the cowl. It sure sounded nice and made for a fairly constant intake temperature. I'd love to be able to hear the SC from that area!!!

[tony soprano]

I ended up using this 3" 120* mandrel bent tube.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-STL-025&Category_Code=PPB

I cut one of the legs off, close to the bend in the tube, and connected it to the throttle body with a 3" silicone coupler. The resulting angle is such that it curves away from that little shelf on the firewall and points towards the front of the car. I currently have the hose that's supplied with the kit clamped on to the tube and have the filter located behind the front fascia.

A few caveats - as you can see, the tube is steel. They used to sell a mild steel version and a stainless version. In any event, it's going to be heavier than some of the other solutions in this thread. Also, it potentially will retain more heat than some of the other solutions in this thread. Lastly, it's a pretty darn tight fit. The mandrel bent tube is 3", the O.D. of the throttle-body is 3", and the silicone coupler is 3" I.D. It can be a PITA to get everything together in the limited space that's available between the throttle-body and the firewall.

[SteveAU]

I would LOVE to have my air filter in my wiper tray. When you figure it out, I may follow you. Not for the cooler air but for the sound. Having the filter in the tray right in front of the driver would be music to my ears. It should really scream there.

Soo like mine then??


http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/3707/mx5mp62coldside026pd7.th.jpg (http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mx5mp62coldside026pd7.jpg)

One of the (few) nice things about being RHD is that we have some space over that side. It does indeed sound REAL good though not quite as loud as you would expect I have to say. I had the same intake on it when it was N/A and it was louder then . Believe it or not the sound of the intake changes tone depending on where the demister is set.

Sorry Tom. I know you have seen the pic but just couldn't help having a little boast...:scooter: :)

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

That's really 'cool', so to speak. ;)

I would expect it to really be loud. Right at the drivers side of the windscreen. (That was a joke). :)

[Tink]

I have an my FFS on about a month. We have a lot of hot days and my intake temps are very high. Last Sunday we had a relatively cool day (say 85) and the car ran so much better.

I can't cool the world and I don't think moving is in my future, so I want to get some cooler air.

The kit I got from Tom comes right off the s/c and goes straight down. As a result picking up hot air from radiator.

A cowl solution looks like a good idea, but, maybe it's just me, I don't want to run all that tubing to the drivers side. Love the way the engine compartment looks now.

I don't see a good way to run into the passengers side cowl. Lots of stuff would have to be moved and looks like a really tight for for MAF.

So I have been thinking of several alternatives.

- enclose the filter, with some type of box and vent the wheel well into the box. Cut the vents lower and bending down so any water would be pushed down. Gord and 99MX5 both have this type of setup, I think. Hard to get good pics in those area.

- Run some kind of tubing from the filter area to right front of car (through the fog light?); same idea as cooling brakes

By the time I get this out of design we will have some cooler weather, I think I will hope to get this done by late spring.

I have tried to read all the threads and and on m.net about this subject.

Any feedback/ideas?

[snakebit]

Here is my setup using the stock air box:
http://www.fastforwardsuperchargers.com/forum/showpost.php?p=10521&postcount=8
The IAT is consistently about 20*F higher than ambient. I think the rad air heats the hose. But it's very safe from hydrolock; running from a fog light hole would be a liability for that.

[Tink]

Here is my setup using the stock air box:
http://www.fastforwardsuperchargers.com/forum/showpost.php?p=10521&postcount=8
The IAT is consistently about 20*F higher than ambient. I think the rad air heats the hose. But it's very safe from hydrolock; running from a fog light hole would be a liability for that.

Nice setup and good pictures to explain.

I have an oil filter relocation kit and that takes up the space under the s/c, forgot to mention that in my post.

Thanks!

[99mx5]

Here's a redesign of my intake. This will be redesigned again so that it doesnt enclose the MAF and will have a better air filter shape, it should also clear the supercharger for hotsides.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/810000-810999/810280_119.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/810000-810999/810280_118.jpg

[chuckerants]

I'll be happy to test one on my HS for you. :)Here's a redesign of my intake. This will be redesigned again so that it doesnt enclose the MAF and will have a better air filter shape, it should also clear the supercharger for hotsides.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/810000-810999/810280_119.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/810000-810999/810280_118.jpg

[maggie]

Really nice setup. Does this design interfere with the EGR tube or valve? There was a previous post with that dilemma. Any pro's or cons to having the MAF inside the box? I usually try to think outside the box...:dots: Any AIT data for comparison with the stock vs. wheel well vs. new setup?

[99mx5]

The flex tube will crossover will not interfere with the EGR valve, the rigid hose I currently have will. The MAF doesn't need to be inside the airbox. Coldsiders could use the box as is, but I think a uniform design would be better.

[lds2002black]

Just to add one more to the mix .. here is mine. I did fabricate a shield for the forward facing side of the air filter so that any water coming in from the grill area would not impact directly on the filter. I have been in a couple of pretty heavy rains and have not had an issue to this point. Picture shows how I routed the duct to the front fender.

[Tink]

Here's a redesign of my intake. This will be redesigned again so that it doesnt enclose the MAF and will have a better air filter shape, it should also clear the supercharger for hotsides.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/810000-810999/810280_119.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/6/web/810000-810999/810280_118.jpg


Nice! You fabricating the box? Can you suggest a source for tubes?

What kind of temps vs. ambient are you seeing?

Thanks, that's kinda of what I am looking for.

[Tink]

Just to add one more to the mix .. here is mine. I did fabricate a shield for the forward facing side of the air filter so that any water coming in from the grill area would not impact directly on the filter. I have been in a couple of pretty heavy rains and have not had an issue to this point. Picture shows how I routed the duct to the front fender.

Tubing runs from s/c through the bottom splash shield to where? Can you provide more pics?

Nice simple solution.

What kind of air temps are you seeing vs. ambient?

Thanks!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Tink,

My tests showed about 2-3 degrees above outside ambient at the box and another 2 degrees or so above that at the throttle body. In other words, at the throttle body it was about 5 degrees or less above outside temperatures.



EDIT: This was in answer to the first question about Ari's (99MX5)

[lds2002black]

Tubing runs from s/c through the bottom splash shield to where? Can you provide more pics?

Nice simple solution.

What kind of air temps are you seeing vs. ambient?

Thanks!

The filter is in the area behind the fog lamp. I opened up the grill slightly to make sure I got some air from the front of the car. If you are moving I see the IAT come down to the temps I see on bank signs! If sitting in traffic it will go up 5-10 degrees then start back down as soon as you move. I also find it will take a while to come down if the car is setting in the sun heating up the black surface. I did not cut the inner fender shield where the tubing goes up into the fender ... there is a hole their from the factory. The only hole I cut was the one in the belly pan you see in the photo. I'll try to get some other shots later.

[Gord96BRG]

So I have been thinking of several alternatives.

- enclose the filter, with some type of box and vent the wheel well into the box. Cut the vents lower and bending down so any water would be pushed down. Gord and 99MX5 both have this type of setup, I think. Hard to get good pics in those area.

- Run some kind of tubing from the filter area to right front of car (through the fog light?); same idea as cooling brakes

When I first installed the FFS Coldside 2 years ago, I ran my intake hose under the supercharger and out to the right front fender area. I had posted pics of that here, where I made a splash shield from light sheet aluminum to prevent spray from the wheels soaking the filter (the NA does not have a factory splash shield like the NB). With the install of the Italia kit, I redid the splash shield to fit the new fender profile and provide a bit of bracing and a stronger filter mount. I used a heavier diamond plate aluminum, and a truck mud flap for a liner to keep it a bit quieter.

Note, I use the 1991 Honda Prelude Si paper filter, 3" flange slides right in the intake hose provided by Tom; intake temperatures are right at ambient!

[ROZ]

Man that's a sweet looking car.....

[chuckerants]

Hmm. I wonder if I can do that for my HS in the drivers side fender?When I first installed the FFS Coldside 2 years ago, I ran my intake hose under the supercharger and out to the right front fender area. I had posted pics of that here, where I made a splash shield from light sheet aluminum to prevent spray from the wheels soaking the filter (the NA does not have a factory splash shield like the NB). With the install of the Italia kit, I redid the splash shield to fit the new fender profile and provide a bit of bracing and a stronger filter mount. I used a heavier diamond plate aluminum, and a truck mud flap for a liner to keep it a bit quieter.

Note, I use the 1991 Honda Prelude Si paper filter, 3" flange slides right in the intake hose provided by Tom; intake temperatures are right at ambient!

[lds2002black]

That is basically the same configuration as mine only I had the advantage? of having the inner fender shield there from the factory. I went on this modification as on a 100 degree day with the A/C on I was seeing 138 degrees on the IAT. Now it makes no difference if it is on or not.

[Tink]

That is basically the same configuration as mine only I had the advantage? of having the inner fender shield there from the factory. I went on this modification as on a 100 degree day with the A/C on I was seeing 138 degrees on the IAT. Now it makes no difference if it is on or not.

Suggested tubing source? 3"?

Did you have to do any electrical work anywhere?

Thanks for all the info.

[ROZ]

How noisy is the air intake. I was wondering about taking the inlet through the cowl below the wipers, but someone mentioned the roar might be too much????

[lds2002black]

Suggested tubing source? 3"?

Did you have to do any electrical work anywhere?

Thanks for all the info.

I didn't change any wiring ... the MAF is still in the same place and I put the IAT in the tubing ( a little RTV keeps it in place). Used the same diameter tubing don't remember the size as I set here) that Tom has in the kit to gain the additional length to the fender. I did make a fiberglass tube that fits inside the air filter and that the tubing slides over .. both secured with clamps.

[Tink]

I didn't change any wiring ... the MAF is still in the same place and I put the IAT in the tubing ( a little RTV keeps it in place). Used the same diameter tubing don't remember the size as I set here) that Tom has in the kit to gain the additional length to the fender. I did make a fiberglass tube that fits inside the air filter and that the tubing slides over .. both secured with clamps.

I did some shopping today and found needed parts.

I also crawled around the right front of the car. Until I jacked it up and took the wheel off I did not realize the hole was there!

One final (right) question.

Does the filter from the kit fit through the hole or did you buy another filter? I did note you did not cut inner fender.

Again, thanks, great solution IMO. All goes well, mine goes in tomorrow.

[lds2002black]

I did some shopping today and found needed parts.

I also crawled around the right front of the car. Until I jacked it up and took the wheel off I did not realize the hole was there!

One final (right) question.

Does the filter from the kit fit through the hole or did you buy another filter? I did note you did not cut inner fender.

Again, thanks, great solution IMO. All goes well, mine goes in tomorrow.


Used the same filter. Only cut the hole in the belly pan.

[Tink]

Tink,

My tests showed about 2-3 degrees above outside ambient at the box and another 2 degrees or so above that at the throttle body. In other words, at the throttle body it was about 5 degrees or less above outside temperatures.


Any re-wiring required to move the MAF or IAT?

Is it as simple as it appears? Flip the tubing over and run a flex tube to the MAF/Filter in the box?

This alternative is becoming more attractive. We get a lot of rain here and water ingestion is not a good thing!

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Yep. You are putting the MAF and filter back where they were when stock.