Front sway bar advice wanted.

[Kyp J]

For all the successful auto crossers: Do you have any opinions to share about the various sizes of front sway bars and which might be best?

I realize a lot of it might be subjective and also different track conditions somehow affect which stiffness is best but I don't want to have a big assortment, just a reasonable compromise better than the OEM.

The size allowed by the stock classification (I have heard it is "one size bigger than OEM" but am not sure what that means) isn't a consideration since I run SM2, but maybe that is what I should get, since the C stock guys are the ones beating me. One one them told me it would help a lot.

The only other suspension changes are the KYB AGX shocks.

[mageep]

For all the successful auto crossers: Do you have any opinions to share about the various sizes of front sway bars and which might be best?

I realize a lot of it might be subjective and also different track conditions somehow affect which stiffness is best but I don't want to have a big assortment, just a reasonable compromise better than the OEM.

The size allowed by the stock classification (I have heard it is "one size bigger than OEM" but am not sure what that means) isn't a consideration since I run SM2, but maybe that is what I should get, since the C stock guys are the ones beating me. One one them told me it would help a lot.

The only other suspension changes are the KYB AGX shocks.

Since the front sway is open in CS, it is the same recommendation pretty much all the time, unless you're doing CRAZY suspension mods, and it doesn't sound like it...

This is what you want, or whatever equivalent fits your year...:
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/20-1013.html

[Kyp J]

Thanks. That is what I was looking at but didn't know if some of the others made any significant difference.

Is there any value in the adjustable end links on an otherwise stock suspension? (Plus the fact I wouldn't have any idea what to adjust or why. However, someone might say "try adjusting that more this way".)

[BlownMX5]

Is there any value in the adjustable end links on an otherwise stock suspension? (Plus the fact I wouldn't have any idea what to adjust or why. However, someone might say "try adjusting that more this way".)

The main value of adjustable end-links is to prevent "preload" on the bar. What that means is when the car is at rest, you want the tension on each end link to be equal, not one pulling and one not. You do this by putting the car on the ground and then adjusting the end links until there is no tension on either one. Now, I suppose there might be some value in intentionally having preload on the bar, but I would consider that an advanced technique and of value only in some special situation.

There is also adjustability in the bar itself; many aftermarket anti-sway bars have multiple holes in the ends where the end links attach. This is very useful in getting a specific reaction out of the bar. If you think of the bar as a lever, the further toward the end of the bar that you attach the endlink, the more leverage you have on the bar, making it "softer". The inverse is also true; attaching away from the end of the bar makes it "stiffer". Generally, softer means more grip, stiffer means less. This is much more likely the intent when someone refers to adjusting the sway bar.

Pat.

[Kyp J]

The main value of adjustable end-links is to prevent "preload" on the bar. What that means is when the car is at rest, you want the tension on each end link to be equal, not one pulling and one not. You do this by putting the car on the ground and then adjusting the end links until there is no tension on either one. Now, I suppose there might be some value in intentionally having preload on the bar, but I would consider that an advanced technique and of value only in some special situation.

There is also adjustability in the bar itself; many aftermarket anti-sway bars have multiple holes in the ends where the end links attach. This is very useful in getting a specific reaction out of the bar. If you think of the bar as a lever, the further toward the end of the bar that you attach the endlink, the more leverage you have on the bar, making it "softer". The inverse is also true; attaching away from the end of the bar makes it "stiffer". Generally, softer means more grip, stiffer means less. This is much more likely the intent when someone refers to adjusting the sway bar.

Pat.

I hadn't thought it through before, but apparently due to variations in parts or weight on the different corners, the stock links may not be quite neutral so the adjustables would compensate for that. But then it would depend on whether the driver was in the car or not, and the driver's weight, same with a passenger. Cheesh, I never should have started thinking about it. Just more details to obsess about.

And now with a fancy new stiffer sway bar, the car will do different things than I am used to and I will get worse at the next event. Carp on a stick.:nopity:

[pumpkin]

Yep, I've got the RB 1 1/8 tubular on my 99 and it is perfect.
JD

[Race Grandpa]

On the other end of things - meaning the rear sway bar - the stock sway bar is often better than an aftermarket sway bar.

I learned this from an instructor that drove my car (97- CSP until the FFS) and looked at my suspension. He said I should remove my aftermarket rear sway bar with a stock sway bar from a 92 through 94. - I guess softner is better in the rear.

This person finished at # 7 in the CSP division at the nationals this year.

I love having others make me sound like I know what I am saying.

[Kyp J]

Since the main reason I am changing the front is the 2 guys driving a C stock Miata that always beat me in my SM2, suggested it and they can't change the rear so I'm not either.

I just got mine in and discovered it hits the AGX adjustment knobs as Serpico said his did. I am now trying to figure out how to turn the shocks without going the whole route with the top Arm bolts etc. etc.

That is why I am here on the computer instead of in the garage tearing it all apart. I am hoping to waste enough time until it is Beer:30.

[mageep]

Since the main reason I am changing the front is the 2 guys driving a C stock Miata that always beat me in my SM2, suggested it and they can't change the rear so I'm not either.

I just got mine in and discovered it hits the AGX adjustment knobs as Serpico said his did. I am now trying to figure out how to turn the shocks without going the whole route with the top Arm bolts etc. etc.

That is why I am here on the computer instead of in the garage tearing it all apart. I am hoping to waste enough time until it is Beer:30.


Yeah, those KYBs need to be oriented correctly when installed! Been there myself, Kyp. 2 Miatas ago.

On the note of the rear sway, I am quickly developing the opinion that the best answer with all this power and all is to REMOVE the rear sway bar comnpletely to help get some additional bite back there. Nice side benefit is the added weight savings!! :yes:

[99mx5]

Pop in a RB tubular front swaybar and remove the rear swaybar.