Fuel Rails

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Now available for immediate delivery. Fuel Rails for the 94-97 and for the 99-05. They can be configured to connect in multiple ways. Only $175.00 plus shipping. Two brass barb fittings will be shipped with the Fuel Rail. Please specify at time of order, model year and desired fittings. 90* Elbow, Straight or plug. The brass Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR, 94-97) or Snubber (99-05) Adaptor is also included.

Http://www.FastForwardSuperchargers.com/New-99-05-Fuel-Rail.jpg

[chuckerants]

That actually looks even better in person. :D

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

You need one for your hotside. After all, we know the proper way to use all the "EXTRA" fuel from ecool. Bigger pulley. LOL

[chuckerants]

You need one for your hotside. After all, we know the proper way to use all the "EXTRA" fuel from ecool. Bigger pulley. LOL

I knew I shoulda snagged one otta your trunk when you weren't looking. :D

[chuckerants]

How hard is it to install one of these?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I have a plain aluminum one that I can't sell you could have if you want it. Not very hard to install, especially on a hotside system. You could even polish it and really make it shine. :)

[chuckerants]

I have a plain aluminum one that I can't sell you could have if you want it. Not very hard to install, especially on a hotside system. You could even polish it and really make it shine. :)

Cool.

Thanks Tom.

Welcome back.

[Wayne-n-Fla]

I thought that with the no return fuel system on the 99+ that theere wasn't a problem with # 4 starving for fuel ??

OK SHRILL SHILL looks like it's time to go shrilling / Shilling again :lol: :lol:

[Wayne-n-Fla]

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=195562&page=1&pp=25

never mind

[chuckerants]

I'm still not sure I understand the need for a new fuel rail 100%, so I'll have to keep reading that thread and talk to Tom again. But, since I now have a new fuel rail, ... :D

[Serpico]

Looks very interesting!!!

Please tell us more !

Chuck, are you still on the stock fuel pump?

[Kyp J]

I don't know if the info on mnet is always 100% but after reading "popstoy's" explanation, I am now afraid to drive my car. The details keep piling up in my head and it is now going to go off like the guy in the movie "scanners". I'm going to have to quit reading these forums.
:?

[chuckerants]

Looks very interesting!!!

Please tell us more !

Chuck, are you still on the stock fuel pump?

Yup, I still have the stock fuel pump.

[Serpico]

I don't know if the info on mnet is always 100% but after reading "popstoy's" explanation, I am now afraid to drive my car. The details keep piling up in my head and it is now going to go off like the guy in the movie "scanners". I'm going to have to quit reading these forums.
:?

I agree with you 100%!!!!!

Hopefully Popstoy's advice applies mainly to those guys trying to squeeze every last drop of performance out of their engines. I'd say 160whp out of a normally aspirated motor is squeezing pretty damn hard..... and you better get it right or else :shock:

[chuckerants]

Has Popstoy ever posted his dyno sheet?

Hmm.

I don't know if the info on mnet is always 100% but after reading "popstoy's" explanation, I am now afraid to drive my car. The details keep piling up in my head and it is now going to go off like the guy in the movie "scanners". I'm going to have to quit reading these forums.
:?

I agree with you 100%!!!!!

Hopefully Popstoy's advice applies mainly to those guys trying to squeeze every last drop of performance out of their engines. I'd say 160whp out of a normally aspirated motor is squeezing pretty damn hard..... and you better get it right or else :shock:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

On the 99+, the feed is to the rear of the fuel rail (yes, I know, the hose connects to the front but a tube goes to the rear and feeds the rail) so #4 feeds first. With my fuel rail, dual feeding is available but I don't think it is necessary as the stock rail is about 3/16" ID and mine is 3/8" ID. Cross section ratio is the square of the diameters so my rail is about 4 times larger. It will feed a LOT of fuel even single ended.

[chuckerants]

If the fuel goes to #4 first, then what's this BS about the #4 cylinder being leaner? Or did I mis-read the dissertation over there?

On the 99+, the feed is to the rear of the fuel rail (yes, I know, the hose connects to the front but a tube goes to the rear and feeds the rail) so #4 feeds first. With my fuel rail, dual feeding is available but I don't think it is necessary as the stock rail is about 3/16" ID and mine is 3/8" ID. Cross section ratio is the square of the diameters so my rail is about 4 times larger. It will feed a LOT of fuel even single ended.

[Wayne-n-Fla]

I think :roll: that is a problem with the 94-97's with the return system ??

[Wayne-n-Fla]

Has Popstoy ever posted his dyno sheet?

Hmm.

I don't know if the info on mnet is always 100% but after reading "popstoy's" explanation, I am now afraid to drive my car. The details keep piling up in my head and it is now going to go off like the guy in the movie "scanners". I'm going to have to quit reading these forums.
:?

I agree with you 100%!!!!!

Hopefully Popstoy's advice applies mainly to those guys trying to squeeze every last drop of performance out of their engines. I'd say 160whp out of a normally aspirated motor is squeezing pretty damn hard..... and you better get it right or else :shock:

What "kit" does he have ???

[chuckerants]

I believe he said he had a built engine.

Has Popstoy ever posted his dyno sheet?

Hmm.

I don't know if the info on mnet is always 100% but after reading "popstoy's" explanation, I am now afraid to drive my car. The details keep piling up in my head and it is now going to go off like the guy in the movie "scanners". I'm going to have to quit reading these forums.
:?

I agree with you 100%!!!!!

Hopefully Popstoy's advice applies mainly to those guys trying to squeeze every last drop of performance out of their engines. I'd say 160whp out of a normally aspirated motor is squeezing pretty damn hard..... and you better get it right or else :shock:

What "kit" does he have ???

[Bo0osted]

I thought I'd revive this old thread to see if a fuel rail is still beneficial with the new PC-Pro.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

At the WHP levels we are playing with, I think they are of marginal good. I supply them with the 94-97 kits as the stock rail doesn't fit with a coldside. I have one on my 99 because it is a test mule. If you up the size of the injectors or cross 220WHP, the rail is probably a good idea.

[eunos1800]

Tom,

Could you please tell me the thread size of the end barbs?


Cheers
Mark

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

All three threaded holes are 1/4" NPT.

[eunos1800]

Ok thanks :)

[MikeyLikesIt]

Hey Tom, I've got a 2000 hotside, that I am getting ready to upgrade the fuel pump. I keep getting a lean on bank one error code. I'm thinking a fuel rail would also be beneficial, especially if at some point I want to add on more boost.

Which rail should I look at?

Thanks!

Mike

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

We have three fuel rails. 90-93, 94-97 and 99-05.

What is your A/F? Lean on Bank 1 is not a good thing.

[MikeyLikesIt]

We have three fuel rails. 90-93, 94-97 and 99-05.

What is your A/F? Lean on Bank 1 is not a good thing.

I would need the 99-05 model. My A/F seems to be OK, I'm not sure what I have to compare it to. It hovers at 14.1 and goes full when I'm under throttle. I'm just wondering if I'm starving the one bank for fuel. I also have the 5th injector (E-Cool) installed. I do have an upgraded pump to install, just haven't doe it yet.

Mike

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Well, if you get "lean bank 2" we have a real problem. ;) You only have bank 1. Bank 2 would be for a V6, V8, etc.

If your A/F is good, you shouldn't get t at CEL. Either your A/F is actually lean or you have a bad front O2 sensor. Do you know what are the circumstances when the CEL occurs?

[MikeyLikesIt]

I'm kinda guessing when I go FOT. I want to say it's random, but with a CEL code like that (thanks for the clarafication), I would think I'd be running lean. I have done coil pack, plugs and wires, O2 I think, is the only thing left. I do seem to get a bit of hesitation at a lower RPM, like it's being bogged down (lean?) then it seems to open up.

I'm thinking maybe it could be the O2, but getting more fuel there might help as well. The front O2 is on the downpipe, correct?

Mike

[ThomS]

Mike , Tom does he have the PC PRO's installed and have you cut the two purple wire's or reattached them and then cut the others. Is this not a problem for him Tom. Sounds like what I was going through.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Mike, Do you have a wideband installed? If so, it should show if you go lean or rich. Also, if you have one, what does it read at idle and cruise? It should show oscillations around 14.7 (14.1 to 15.3, for example). What exactly is the code number?

Thom,

He has a 2000 and it doesn't have those same two wires we cut for the 01-05. His car didn't have VTCS.

[MikeyLikesIt]

I don't have a wideband, but I do have an A/F gauge installed that I got from TDR. If I go hard on the gas, it does go full rich, and then at idle speeds or crusing, it odes oscillate where it should.

The code is P0171. I don't have the PC-Pro, I have the JR fuel card... Where there any upgrades for this?

Mike

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I would be happy to sell you a fuel rail but I think, more likely, that the front O2 might be getting tired. That's similar to what was happening to my 99 around 125,000 miles. With the powercard, you are probably running a bit on the rich side, if anything. Maybe the front O2 hass sooted up?

If you want a fuel rail, they are in stock. Call me.

[MikeyLikesIt]

Thanks for the input I'll have to scope it out this weekend...

Mike

[MikeyLikesIt]

This is throwing in a good bit of thread drift, but I did clean the upper O2 sensor, after soaking the crap out of the threads with penetrating oil, it ran fine on a fairly long highway trip, but on the return, the check engine light just 'popped' back on. I guess I could clean the lower O2 as well, but I'm a bit more skeptical that's that what it is.

I'm waiting for the wideband to show up (AEM), and see how she looks.

Mike

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I agree. Wait for the WB before anything else. The only O2 that has anything to do with fuel is the first one. The one after the rear cat is only to check the operation of the cat. The one after the first cat (California 99-00 only) is only there to check the first cat (California 99-00 only). Still could be a dying sensor. Cleaning it might have just been a momentary stop gap. Also, when you replace it, don't forget to reset the ECU. You might need to do that when celaning the sensor as well.

[MikeyLikesIt]

I agree. Wait for the WB before anything else. The only O2 that has anything to do with fuel is the first one. The one after the rear cat is only to check the operation of the cat. The one after the first cat (California 99-00 only) is only there to check the first cat (California 99-00 only). Still could be a dying sensor. Cleaning it might have just been a momentary stop gap. Also, when you replace it, don't forget to reset the ECU. You might need to do that when celaning the sensor as well.


Yes, I did do the reset after the cleaning. I'll keep an eye on the WB once I have it installed and see if the O2 NB is failing. Where should I have the new bung put in? Before the cat? Or before the upper O2 sensor?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Down near but before the cat. I put mine just before the flange on the header. I believe the instructions say the WB should be at least 16" from the exhaust ports. They can't take the heat like the Narrow Band. The NB has no heater so it relies on the exhaust to keep it hot. The WB has it's own heater and needs the exhaust to be cooler so it can maintain temperature stability and accuracy.