PcPro A/F ratio was 15:1 on default settings

[Scuba Steve]

I want to the dyno yesterday and he shut me down on the first couple of runs because my A/F ratio was 15:1 with the default settings. Sure am glad I haven't been driving the car hard.

I adjusted the entire curve on both cards to the max and the richest I could get was 14:1 at 3500 RPM, slowly dropping to 13.1:1 at 5500RPM and dropping to 12:1 at 6500 RPM

I then turned fueling off on the e-cool to see if it was working. I got
14.75 at 3500 RPM, slowly dropping to 13:1 at 5500 rpm and going lean to 14:1 at 6500 RPM. - This tells me the e-cool is working, espicially at higher RPM.

My adjustments are now as follows;
Green (0-2800 rpm) 1
Yellow(2800-5000 rpm) 2
Red (5000-7000 rpm) 1
Yellow/Blue (entire curve) 8
Red/Blue (entire curve) 8

e-cool - 8

Would I get more fuel by adjusting the Green, Yellow, and Red settings, even though the overall curve is maxed out?

I checked the vacuum lines going into the cards and they seem fine, so I believe the cards are seeing boost.

I am hoping to go to the dyno again next weekend, any suggestions for solutions?

[chuckerants]

I want to the dyno yesterday and he shut me down on the first couple of runs because my A/F ratio was 15:1 with the default settings. Sure am glad I haven't been driving the car hard.

I adjusted the entire curve on both cards to the max and the richest I could get was 14:1 at 3500 RPM, slowly dropping to 13.1:1 at 5500RPM and dropping to 12:1 at 6500 RPM

I then turned fueling off on the e-cool to see if it was working. I got
14.75 at 3500 RPM, slowly dropping to 13:1 at 5500 rpm and going lean to 14:1 at 6500 RPM. - This tells me the e-cool is working, espicially at higher RPM.

My adjustments are now as follows;
Green (0-2800 rpm) 1
Yellow(2800-5000 rpm) 2
Red (5000-7000 rpm) 1
Yellow/Blue (entire curve) 8
Red/Blue (entire curve) 8

e-cool - 8

Would I get more fuel by adjusting the Green, Yellow, and Red settings, even though the overall curve is maxed out?

I checked the vacuum lines going into the cards and they seem fine, so I believe the cards are seeing boost.

I am hoping to go to the dyno again next weekend, any suggestions for solutions?

Were you getting any pinging at all?

[Scuba Steve]

Were you getting any pinging at all?

I was not able to hear any, but the operator said he did.

[Serpico]

I want to the dyno yesterday and he shut me down on the first couple of runs because my A/F ratio was 15:1 with the default settings. Sure am glad I haven't been driving the car hard.

I adjusted the entire curve on both cards to the max and the richest I could get was 14:1 at 3500 RPM, slowly dropping to 13.1:1 at 5500RPM and dropping to 12:1 at 6500 RPM

I then turned fueling off on the e-cool to see if it was working. I got
14.75 at 3500 RPM, slowly dropping to 13:1 at 5500 rpm and going lean to 14:1 at 6500 RPM. - This tells me the e-cool is working, espicially at higher RPM.

My adjustments are now as follows;
Green (0-2800 rpm) 1
Yellow(2800-5000 rpm) 2
Red (5000-7000 rpm) 1
Yellow/Blue (entire curve) 8
Red/Blue (entire curve) 8

e-cool - 8

Would I get more fuel by adjusting the Green, Yellow, and Red settings, even though the overall curve is maxed out?

I checked the vacuum lines going into the cards and they seem fine, so I believe the cards are seeing boost.

I am hoping to go to the dyno again next weekend, any suggestions for solutions?


I thought you were installing a wideband gauge Scuba S. From what I've learned over the past year it will be the first thing that I install on any future car that I super/turbocharge.

Yes, you will get more fuel by adjusting the Green/Yellow/Red settings. I have slightly larger injectors on my 01' and if I set ALL the settings to 8, the richest I can run is 12.8 at redline (with the fifth injector unplugged).

My settings now are:

Green 2&3
Yellow 5
Red 3&4
Y/B -8
R/B -8

I have the fifth injector only supplying a tiny amount of fuel from 3.5psi on up.

This will allow me to easily add a light or two on the G,Y &R with the PC Pro when winter rolls around again.

My A/F ratio is a steady 12.2:1 at WOT gradually increasing to 12:1 at redline.

If I were you, I'd be tempted to set the PC-Pro at :

G-4
Y-4
R-4
Y/B -8
R/B-8

and make up the difference with the fifth injector as needed.

For some reason I feel better knowing that the main injectors are supplying the bulk of the fuel.

[bambam]

Tom posted on his instructions to normally leave the green, yellow and red lights on "0" and raise the fuel curve up or down with the yellow-blue and red-blue...

does anyone actually do that?

Buckwheat:devil:

[Scuba Steve]

I thought you were installing a wideband gauge Scuba S. I am, it is sitting on the shelf in my garage. :nopity: At least now I am movitated to get the bung welded on this week.

Yes, you will get more fuel by adjusting the Green/Yellow/Red settings. I didn't even think of this until this morning. That is good news. I have increased the individual settings to 4 and hopefully I can get back to the dyno this weekend.

I have the fifth injector only supplying a tiny amount of fuel from 3.5psi on up. I don't believe the PC-Pro is adjustable based on boost. I have cut this back to 4 after increasing the main injectors. We'll see how this works out.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Steve,

Did the guy at the dyno check your fuel pressure? With my 99, I can run the fuel to 10:1 with no problem.

Next question, where is your boost line located?

Last, but not least, can you confirm that the cards are seeing the actual boost? The E-Cool card should show you what it thinks the boost is at roughly 2PSI per light. How many lights were on.

It really sounds like either you are low on fuel pressure or making more boost than the cards are seeing.

[Scuba Steve]

Did the guy at the dyno check your fuel pressure? With my 99, I can run the fuel to 10:1 with no problem. No, but I do have a Walbro 255 fuel pump.

Next question, where is your boost line located? It is where the cruise control used to connect. I also had them connect another boost guage on the manifold and we both showed about 8PSI (didn't go to redline).

Last, but not least, can you confirm that the cards are seeing the actual boost? The E-Cool card should show you what it thinks the boost is at roughly 2PSI per light. How many lights were on. A quick check shows 3-4 lights, so it should be OK

It really sounds like either you are low on fuel pressure or making more boost than the cards are seeing. I would have thought so too, but if you look at loo P's post in this thread he has similar results. I now have my settings at what Loo P recommended and my narrow band definately shows more fuel. I know I know, install the wideband :hammer:

I would be very interested to see what others have for settings and what their A/F ratio is.

[99mx5]

Last, but not least, can you confirm that the cards are seeing the actual boost? The E-Cool card should show you what it thinks the boost is at roughly 2PSI per light. How many lights were on.


Tom asked me this question anjd I really couldn't give him a straight answer because there was no way I could floor it and look down at the PC-Pros. I highly recommend having a passenger watch the LEDs while you drive.


I don't believe the PC-Pro is adjustable based on boost. I have cut this back to 4 after increasing the main injectors. We'll see how this works out.


The E-Cool PC-Pro is boost-based, the main PC-Pro is RPM-based.

[cmetzner]

Tom -

I looked at the map attached in one of the postings above. Do you now recommend adding fuel beginning at 3.5 psi?

I am using a previous map of yours for the SS controller and it is set to begin adding fuel at .5psi

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Tom -

I looked at the map attached in one of the postings above. Do you now recommend adding fuel beginning at 3.5 psi?

I am using a previous map of yours for the SS controller and it is set to begin adding fuel at .5psi

It depends. If you start at a very small number, starting at 1PSI is OK. The PC-Pro starts at 2PSI. It just seemed to help to get away from the real low boost as the car is always in and out of low boost.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Hmm. Sounds more like the E-Cool PC-Pro. Is it turned all the way up as well? Can you confirm the 5th injector is pumping fuel?

No, but I do have a Walbro 255 fuel pump. I am more concerned with a dieing FPR than the pump. The pump flows fuel but the FPR controls the pressure.

It is where the cruise control used to connect. I also had them connect another boost guage on the manifold and we both showed about 8PSI (didn't go to redline). OK. Good spot.

A quick check shows 3-4 lights, so it should be OK. OK.

I would have thought so too, but if you look at loo P's post in this thread he has similar results. I now have my settings at what Loo P recommended and my narrow band definately shows more fuel. I know I know, install the wideband :hammer: Install the wideband :). However, if you are not getting sufficient fuel and have ping, I suspect the E-Cool PC-Pro first. Is it turned all the way up as well?

I would be very interested to see what others have for settings and what their A/F ratio is.

[Scuba Steve]

Hmm. Sounds more like the E-Cool PC-Pro. Is it turned all the way up as well? Can you confirm the 5th injector is pumping fuel?

I believe it is pumping fuel. When we shut down the e-cool it ran a bit leaner under 3500rpm, and much leaner after 5500 RPM as compared to having it turned up all the way.

If the e-cool pc-pro adjustment is based on boost and not RPM, what adjustments are for what boost level? All I found was this in the pc-pro instructions
For the PC-Pros used for the E-Cool 5th injector, the only adjustment is the Yellow-Blue. It will add or remove fuel across the board. The Green, Yellow and Red lights still show up but have no function.

ALso, how does one check the FPR?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Any shop worth a dime can measure fuel pressure. Should be ~60-65 PSI for 99+.

Sounds like the cards and 5th injector are working. If you turn up the yellow/blue to 8 anthen down to 1, does it change fuel? Sounded like you were saying yes?

Another way to test the E-Cool is to blow ~8-10 PSI in the e-cool card @ idle. That should stall the engine.

[Scuba Steve]

Sounds like the cards and 5th injector are working. If you turn up the yellow/blue to 8 anthen down to 1, does it change fuel? Sounded like you were saying yes?
Correct

Tom - If the pc-pro with e-cool is boost based, how is it adjusted for a specific boost level and what is the recommended setting once A/F is dialed in?

I thought I read you can only adjust the entire curve with the yellow/blue. I am headed back to the dyno tomorrow night.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

It is set to add fuel from 1-15PSI. Then you adjust the green/blue to tell it to add more or less fuel across that range (ie. raise or lower the curve).

[Scuba Steve]

Just got back from the dyno and will post maps in the dyno section when I get electronic copies. I am wondering if the dyno shop last week had problems with the wideband, or if the individual settings actually add that much more fuel.

Overall, I am now running rich (richer than 12:1) which is a lot better than the 15:1 in the dyno last saturday.

I did notice a lean spike from 5.5 to 7k on the runs. Increasing the red setting simply reduced the spike from 5.5k to 6k and it still occured at 6k to 7k. The e-cool seemed better at reducing this spike than the stock injectors.

Once I get the electronic copies I will post them with the corrosponding pc-pro settings. I will likely go back to the dyno after I get feedback on the settings. At least now I feel comfortable with the spiriited drive planned Sunday :yes:

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

I did notice a lean spike from 5.5 to 7k on the runs. Increasing the red setting simply reduced the spike from 5.5k to 6k and it still occured at 6k to 7k. The e-cool seemed better at reducing this spike than the stock injectors.:yes:

How lean? I would use the e-cool to eliminate the probem anyhow as it cures two sins at once. It adds fuel and cools the air.

[Scuba Steve]

How lean? I would use the e-cool to eliminate the probem anyhow as it cures two sins at once. It adds fuel and cools the air.

I just got the maps and will post them tomorrow. Best run was 206Hp, 166 TQ, at 6800 RPM running rich.

I believe if we lean it out and run it to 7k we will easily hit 210 HP.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Not too shabby. :)

[Kyp J]

Just got back from the dyno and will post maps in the dyno section when I get electronic copies. I am wondering if the dyno shop last week had problems with the wideband, or if the individual settings actually add that much more fuel.

Overall, I am now running rich (richer than 12:1) which is a lot better than the 15:1 in the dyno last saturday.

I did notice a lean spike from 5.5 to 7k on the runs. Increasing the red setting simply reduced the spike from 5.5k to 6k and it still occured at 6k to 7k. The e-cool seemed better at reducing this spike than the stock injectors.

Once I get the electronic copies I will post them with the corrosponding pc-pro settings. I will likely go back to the dyno after I get feedback on the settings. At least now I feel comfortable with the spiriited drive planned Sunday :yes:

That lean spike at 5.5-7 K sounds suspiciously like the one I have between 3 and 3.5 K. Actually it looks more like a hump on the graph. Also, the other 2001 at Tom's dyno weekend had one there as well. Hmmmm...

[mageep]

I can't see the chart to say definitively, but if the spikes are defined as starting and ending as nearly straight verticals, and there is no corresponding change (even small) in the direction of the HP or torque curves, then I think you have to chalk them up as reader anomalies...

[Kyp J]

Mine was definitely a hump, not a spike. I think Jonathan's was too. I didn't get any printouts since it was all tuning and not everything got worked out so we bailed on the dyno attempt. I had noises. They sounded like dead people. My car is haunted.

I had covered up the lean spot with an extra time for the cells covering that RPM range (2500 to the SS, there seems to be a discrepancy with what the SS thinks is the RPM range and what the tach says) in the SS for the E cool. Looked better on my wideband. It definitely had a power drop at that point before adding the extra fuel for that spot.