Fan shrouds for 37 mm radiator

[Kyp J]

Since my method of sealing the shrouds was so messy and unreliable (the foam kept falling out) I found a fairly simple and clean method while waiting for my slow to arrive parts.

For the metal shrouded fan (A/C?) I used 1 3/8" Z bar found in the carpet dept. of Home Depot. It is easily cut and the shape fits the gaps on the sides and top and bottom. On the sides I pop riveted it to the outside of the shroud and at top and bottom, to the inside and the opposite side of the Z bar. It has different dimensions on the opposite sides of the Z. I left a bit extra on the ends to fold over to close off the corners. If I did another one I could make it better but it came out "good enough" and way better than gooey duct tape.

The plastic shroud got 1/2 X 3/4 aluminum angle on the top and bottom, using the 3/4 side to block the gap, pop riveted at the ends to the plastic "ears" of the side.

It looks like they will effectively block most of the leakage around the shrouds.

If possible, I will include pictures too small to see anything.

[bogey]

An easy inexpensive solution is to use heater hose. It come in many diameters and will fit between the shroud and radiator. You can use some ultrablack sealant to hold it in place, but if you use the right size, friction will hold it tight. There is a lip on the shroud that holds it nicely.

I just left a visit with Tom, and he wants to claim this as his idea, but I beat him to it. ;)

BTW: Tom and Kathleen are wonderful hosts, despite the unbearably hot tempuratures....

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Hey, I thought I was going to post that as my idea that I came up with all on my own just after seeing yours? :)

All I can say is "What a neat idea.". The hose makes a perfect seal and won't deteriorate like the foam door seal. The instant he lifted his hood and I saw it, I was convinced.

ps. After you left, we got the high humidity to go with the 113F heat. :(

[sbeck37923]

I used heavy rubber tubing (air compressor hose) of different diameters. I held it in place by drilling small holes every 4 inces or so around the fan shroud and using very short pointed screws. In the corners, I bent some brass rod and inserted it into the hose to make it hold at 90 degrees. I used the weatherstripping foam between the 2 fan shrouds to seal them together. When removing the fan shrouds, the hose stays with the shrouds.

[bogey]

ps. After you left, we got the high humidity to go with the 113F heat. :(

I thought that the high humidity was there when I was! It was brutally hot and uncomfortable. I assume there are SOME redeeming qualities to living there...

Vegas is nearly as bad today. 108 plus humid.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

The pool and top down all winter long. We go top down most of the year. Even now it is ok if the AC is running.

[jportwood]

Those are all good ideas but I wonder why you can't cut the post/stay shorter

[bogey]

On the Koyo radiator, the posts are welded aluminum that are tapped for the screws. Cutting them would not be very easy, and I don't know if the depth of the holes would be sufficient to bolt into.

The stock radiator has the same gap, but the factory foam insulation is glued to the "old" radiator and has generally turned to dust after so many years.

Spanning the gap with "household" insulation does not work because it does not handle the under hood temperatures very well.

[Kyp J]

I used heavy rubber tubing (air compressor hose) of different diameters. I held it in place by drilling small holes every 4 inces or so around the fan shroud and using very short pointed screws. In the corners, I bent some brass rod and inserted it into the hose to make it hold at 90 degrees. I used the weatherstripping foam between the 2 fan shrouds to seal them together. When removing the fan shrouds, the hose stays with the shrouds.


I thought about doing something like this as I was wandering around Home Depot looking for something that might work. I never know what to say when one of the "helpers" asks me if they can help me find something.

How come none of these ideas came up when I asked for methods to do this way back when I originally did mine wrong?????:gun_bandana:

I always try to get someone else to do my thinking for me. It usually works out better that way.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

What would have been great would be if the posts were studs instead. But they don't make it that way.

[Kyp J]

What would have been great would be if the posts were studs instead. But they don't make it that way.

For a second I thought you were commenting on the manliness of the replies to the forum. Just proves my brain is wired a bit oddly.

The plastic shroud's sides can't get much closer than they are anyway so you would still have gaps at the top and bottom and I think the fan blade would be kind of close to the fins on the metal one.

Does anyone have any suggestions on closing in the gaps at the sides and bottom at the front of the radiator to force all the air in the mouth to go thru the radiator or would that be bad for the winter ? (Assuming you lived where that happens).

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

What difference would winter make? You can make the radiator too cold in 50F weather.

[Kyp J]

Isn't that winter?

[snakebit]

Wouldn't the t-stat manage coolant temp/flow properly despite a "too cold" rad?

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Yep. You could have a radiator as big as the great outdoors and the T-Stat would compensate.

Wouldn't the t-stat manage coolant temp/flow properly despite a "too cold" rad?

[Kyp J]

Yep. You could have a radiator as big as the great outdoors and the T-Stat would compensate.

Outboard boat motor.