Eventful weekend with the coldside.

[aramis]

I now have driven about 200 miles since the install, still working out the kinks. I drove it to Mid-Ohio Sunday for the IRL race. On the way back I had a fuel hose rupture (!) right at the FPR. Car died but luckily did not burn to the ground.

Mental note: buy fire extinguisher, keep in car.
Mental note #2: pulling the fuel rail in a pizza shop parking lot to get to the @*#&% hose clamp on the FPR = not fun.
Mental note #3: keeping critical tools in the trunk is a good idea, enabling #2.
Mental note #4: time to re-evaluate my hose layout. Man, I'm tired of the garage smelling like 93 octane.

On the plus side, I fixed it and drove it home. Hooray.

In separate news, I have a strange boost lag issue. The car makes no boost at all until about 4000rpm (it varies), then the boost suddenly arrives at about 5psi and ramps up to 8psi at redline. Last week it started boosting immediately from low RPM and maxed out around 9psi.

I suspect the bypass actuator is sticking somehow but haven't had a chance to check it since Sunday. Anything else obvious I should look for?

[lowboy72]

I just got off of the phone tonight with Tom regarding exactly the same issue. My boost also seems to come on at around 5000rpm. Even more importantly it take 3-5 seconds depending on the gear for the the boost to kick in while driving. We did troubleshoot it to a possible bypass actuator problem. Tom told me to try and re-adjust the bracket for the actuator arm. He said its design tolerance is strict and if bolted to the supercharger incorrectly it may cause the actuator arm to bind. Once I can get a 5mm allen wrench (the only tool I did not bring with me), I will give it a go.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

Make sure there is nothing touching the arm on the bypass valve. It is crowded over there with fuel lines and other things. If they are touching the actuator arm that can cause a problem.

Did you say the hose ruptured or blew off? If it ruptured, was it the hose I supplied? That stuff is good for a couple hundred PSI.

[mx3jmcb]

I now have driven about 200 miles since the install, still working out the kinks. I drove it to Mid-Ohio Sunday for the IRL race. On the way back I had a fuel hose rupture (!) right at the FPR. Car died but luckily did not burn to the ground.

Mental note: buy fire extinguisher, keep in car.
Mental note #2: pulling the fuel rail in a pizza shop parking lot to get to the @*#&% hose clamp on the FPR = not fun.
Mental note #3: keeping critical tools in the trunk is a good idea, enabling #2.
Mental note #4: time to re-evaluate my hose layout. Man, I'm tired of the garage smelling like 93 octane.

On the plus side, I fixed it and drove it home. Hooray.

In separate news, I have a strange boost lag issue. The car makes no boost at all until about 4000rpm (it varies), then the boost suddenly arrives at about 5psi and ramps up to 8psi at redline. Last week it started boosting immediately from low RPM and maxed out around 9psi.

I suspect the bypass actuator is sticking somehow but haven't had a chance to check it since Sunday. Anything else obvious I should look for?

Your bypass valve is responsible for your power issue...the actuator arm has to be perfectly alligned so that it puts pressure at the good angle on the rotating bypass arm. Mine wasn't alligned perfectly when i got the blower so i had the same deal as you happening where it suddenly shot up at 5k with nothing happening before then.

Loosen the two bolts holding the actuator in place and re-allign it, it'll work.

[aramis]

Thanks for the input everyone.

Tom: Not sure of the hose source, I used the length you supplied as well as some store-bought stuff as I needed more. It ruptured right where it leaves the FPR barb. It had a fairly tight bend in it, that probably didn't help. And I've had the fuel rail in and out several times recently fixing other leaks. I may have sliced the hose on something in the process there.

Everyone: I took a quick look at it tonight and the bypass arm was definitely stuck about halfway to vertical. Nothing obviously blocking it, but I'll try to make some more clearance from the nearby hoses and realign the arm.

I'll probably wait until I can get some new injector O-rings and do it all at once. The #4 injector is weeping slightly (again --argh!), it seemed the O-ring was damaged during my roadside repair but there wasn't much I could do about it at the time . . .

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

The hose is 5/16" ID. However, there is fuel hose and fuel injector hose. Fuel hose is good for very low pressure (20PSI?). Fuel injector hose is good for 200-300 PSI depending on manufacturer. A huge difference.

[aramis]

I did purchase specific fuel injection hose for the fuel system. I will double check this weekend when I pull the rail again, but I'm confident all the fuel lines are the right spec. Whether NAPA house brand is good quality or not . . . maybe a different issue.

[Tom @ Fast Forward]

NAPA typically sells the NAPA brand or Goodyear brand which are the same thing. It is probably stamped R30C9 or something like that. Good stuff.