MiataMTF
09-09-2007, 10:45 PM
Hi All,
I've been asked to assist in tightening up a FFS Coldside installed on a '99. The tuning will be done on a DynoJet so load-balancing will not be possible. Otherwise, we'll do our best. Here's my plan so far:
1. Start with normal CA-oxygenated 91-octane fuel (worst-case scenario).
2. Make sure all components (e.g. temperature sensors) are working properly.
3. Record the best PC-Pro settings, off the dyno, as a starting point.
4. On the Dyno, monitor the usual: HP, TQ, AFR, timing advance, knock.
5. Run a baseline test and evaluate the results.
Adjusting the PC-Pro:
I think we can make sufficient adjustments with the user-selectable adjustments (LEDs), meaning we shouldn't have to rework the underlying settings. Personally, I like to start by setting the PC-Pro to run at it's best AFR and knock-resistance while under 6-psi boost. This forms a good baseline that seems to be representative of normal day-to-day driving without triggering active fuel-management by the PC-Pro. After that, I concentrate on two things - 1) preventing pinging & 2) retaining timing advance.
I'll start by increasing the e-Cool injector (leaving the main card alone) to minimize pinging at WOT (open loop) and near-WOT (closed loop). As I said earlier, once the main card is set to handle up to 6-psi without the e-Cool; thus, the supplemental fuel demanded by the SC is primarily delivered via the e-Cool injector.
As far as the main card, I have found that once the range-specific parameters (green, yellow, red) have been set, I can use the yellow/blue to adjust the entire curve in response to pinging or timing issues. Finally, I'll adjust the red/blue to address the transition zones.
THEN, as a final check, we'll add enough 100-octane race gas to make about 95-octane. The last dyno pulls with this 95-octane fuel should show slightly more timing advance and more power than the best runs on straight 91-octane.
ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE WELCOME. If I find a consistent way to conduct this work, I'll probably put together a "how-to" on it. Thanks again,
Mike.
I've been asked to assist in tightening up a FFS Coldside installed on a '99. The tuning will be done on a DynoJet so load-balancing will not be possible. Otherwise, we'll do our best. Here's my plan so far:
1. Start with normal CA-oxygenated 91-octane fuel (worst-case scenario).
2. Make sure all components (e.g. temperature sensors) are working properly.
3. Record the best PC-Pro settings, off the dyno, as a starting point.
4. On the Dyno, monitor the usual: HP, TQ, AFR, timing advance, knock.
5. Run a baseline test and evaluate the results.
Adjusting the PC-Pro:
I think we can make sufficient adjustments with the user-selectable adjustments (LEDs), meaning we shouldn't have to rework the underlying settings. Personally, I like to start by setting the PC-Pro to run at it's best AFR and knock-resistance while under 6-psi boost. This forms a good baseline that seems to be representative of normal day-to-day driving without triggering active fuel-management by the PC-Pro. After that, I concentrate on two things - 1) preventing pinging & 2) retaining timing advance.
I'll start by increasing the e-Cool injector (leaving the main card alone) to minimize pinging at WOT (open loop) and near-WOT (closed loop). As I said earlier, once the main card is set to handle up to 6-psi without the e-Cool; thus, the supplemental fuel demanded by the SC is primarily delivered via the e-Cool injector.
As far as the main card, I have found that once the range-specific parameters (green, yellow, red) have been set, I can use the yellow/blue to adjust the entire curve in response to pinging or timing issues. Finally, I'll adjust the red/blue to address the transition zones.
THEN, as a final check, we'll add enough 100-octane race gas to make about 95-octane. The last dyno pulls with this 95-octane fuel should show slightly more timing advance and more power than the best runs on straight 91-octane.
ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE WELCOME. If I find a consistent way to conduct this work, I'll probably put together a "how-to" on it. Thanks again,
Mike.