I Need Some Collective Help

[MikeyLikesIt]

I'm having a few issues, of which I think all are related, so here goes:

I have an idle dip, which is worse when it's cold. Also, when it's cold, but still apparent when the car warms up, at WOT, the car seems to 'sputter' like it's being either starved of fuel or a vacuum leak(?). Also I keep throwing a Bank One lean code.

I am running a hotside, 100MM pulley, FFS BTB, and the E-Cool. I am also running the basic JR fuel card, and the SS for the 5th injector.

Sorry for being wordy, but the system ran great until a few months ago. I've done some work, but I'm about out of things I can think of.

Thanks in advance,

Mike

[socal pat]

Firstly it would really help to know what year the car is. I got the lean bank 1 code before. Mine was caused by a leak at the MAF connection in the intake tract, but that's on a '99-00.

[bogey]

Where is the idle air controller installed? It needs to be plumbed in pre boost. Tom can tell you all about it.

[MikeyLikesIt]

Sorry, some more details: It's a 2000. A/C and Cruise.

I'll have to check on the IAC and where it sits. Had a few beers tonight... don't remember.

Mike:cheers2:

[Serpico]

Do you know what your A/F ratio is at WOT???? If not, please install a wideband sensor and adjust the fuel accordingly.....

It's common knowledge that you have to adjust the idle a couple times a year on a Hotside setup. Try turning up the idle just a hair.

You can try cleaning inside the IAC valve with throttle body cleaner and then lubricate the piston inside with some Triflow lube. It may help,,,,it may not....

FWIW, I have my idle adjusted about as high as I can without throwing a "idle circuit higher than expected" code. I occasionally get idle droop when the engine is cold , but after it warms up completely all is well.

Good Luck!

[MikeyLikesIt]

Do you know what your A/F ratio is at WOT???? If not, please install a wideband sensor and adjust the fuel accordingly.....

It's common knowledge that you have to adjust the idle a couple times a year on a Hotside setup. Try turning up the idle just a hair.

You can try cleaning inside the IAC valve with throttle body cleaner and then lubricate the piston inside with some Triflow lube. It may help,,,,it may not....

FWIW, I have my idle adjusted about as high as I can without throwing a "idle circuit higher than expected" code. I occasionally get idle droop when the engine is cold , but after it warms up completely all is well.

Good Luck!

Since I am running the JR timing card, I have no adjustments to make. Maybe I can add a WB in the future, but I think I can get this setup back to where I had it. I will take a look at the IAC and see what it's doing.

Thanks for the tips!

Mike

[cmetzner]

It sounds like symptoms that I have had several times. It turned out to be either a simple idle adjustment (for the idle dip) or a vacuum leak.

The sources of the vac leak were the flex intake tube or the tubing that is the source of vacuum to the additional timing and fuel controllers.

The hose clamps eat through the intake flex tube on my kit. I have to replace the flex tube at least once a year. This is with the BRP sourced tubing. Better hose clamps helped. Don't know if Tom's supplied tubing is different with the BTB.

To check for the vacuum leak in the smaller tubing I did the following. I disconnected the vacuum to the JR and SS controllers (and removed the sc belt) and drove the car like that for a couple of days. If the idle is fine then you know that the leak is in all that collection of small tubing connections for the JR card and SS.

If not, then there may be a small leak in the flex tubing.

[MikeyLikesIt]

Thanks for the tips!

I did find some things, as the IAC had actually worked itself loose from the mounting plate. I also removed the BTB and made sure my fittings/hoses were still in-tact. And I also adjusted the idle, but now I'm sitting at around 1500 RPM! :driving: I'm going to see if I can replace the idle screw with something that's more easily adjusted. I also replaced a flexible vacuum line with a hard one.

I didn't get much of a chance today to see if the 'sputter' is gone, as with school being back in session, I don't get much chance to open it up...

Thanks again to everyone for your help!

Mike

[bogey]

If the IAC was loose, that would explain the vacuum leak. Glad it's something simple.