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2001 Emerald Mica

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  • Uncle Hoonsalot
    started a topic 2001 Emerald Mica

    2001 Emerald Mica

    I bought this car in Huntsville, AL with the FFS already installed. The PO built the car to go to HPDE events, and then bought an Alfa Romeo project car and lost interest in the Miata. Since it was just going to be a track car for him, he treated it accordingly. I plan to daily drive this car and Autocross it. I may also try to get to some track days, though frankly I'm a bit scared to take my daily to the track.

    My main goal currently is just to get the car in better condition for daily use. I started by swapping over the saddle interior from my '02 SE Miata, as well as the 3.90 LSD from the same car.

    Now I'm chasing down some poor idle issues. I pulled the air filter and MAF and cleaned those, which helped a good bit. The car still will randomly bog down to about 500RPM before coming back up to 850/900. I plan to replace spark plugs and wires next, as the car sat a lot under the previous ownership. Both the boost gauge and the wideband are not working right now as well, so I need to track down those issues. They were working previously, so I suspect the problem is a simple wiring issue for the wideband, and I think the boost gauge's vacuum line is not correctly attached any more.

    Here is a picture of the car at my first Autocross with it:

  • Tom @ Fast Forward
    replied
    I will send them tomorrow. Priority Mail. Should have them Saturday.

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  • Uncle Hoonsalot
    replied
    Email sent. Thank you Tom!

    Leave a comment:


  • Tom @ Fast Forward
    replied
    Sounds like wrong ones. Send me an email with address and I will send correct ones.

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  • Uncle Hoonsalot
    replied
    I failed to mention, but did use silicone lube on them at the recommendation of a mechanic friend. Maybe itís just the parts store o rings being a tad off.

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  • Tom @ Fast Forward
    replied
    If they are the right ones, take a little grease and wipe a fine film on the O-Ring so it will slide in.

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  • Uncle Hoonsalot
    replied
    Turned out to be the crankshaft pulley. Bolt had loosened up and the key broke in half. No real damage, thankfully.

    During all of the attempts at diag before we checked mechanicals (duh), we pulled out an injector from the fuel rail. The o ring of course tore, so I removed them all to replace them. Iíve now torn two sets trying to get them back in. For the life of me I canít manage to get them back in without tearing the o rings! Any tricks? Theyíre extremely difficult to push into the rail. I tried lining them up and bolting the rail to the head, and Iíve tried using a socket over the injector and tapping it in with a mallet. I canít get them to press in by hand.

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  • Tom @ Fast Forward
    replied
    Well, cam sensor controls fuel and the crank sensor controls spark. grab an old spark plug, plug it into one of the spark plug wires, hold it to the block and see if it sparks while cranking. Almost has to be spark or fuel.

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  • Uncle Hoonsalot
    replied
    I thought the plug may have been remnant from the VTCS.

    I did check the fuse and it's still intact. I had an issue briefly where a vacuum hose would come off one of the power cards and would cause that fuse to blow, so that was a concern for me initially. Fuel is verified at the injectors as well, so that doesn't seem likely to be the problem. I also suspected the cam pos sensor, but have tried 3 different sensors, so don't believe that to be the problem. Verified crank pos sensor too.

    Guess the next step is spark.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tom @ Fast Forward
    replied
    That plug is likely from the old intake manifold internal valves that we don't use. If it died like that, I would look at the "injector fuse" in the box on the passenger fender. Both fuel and ignition get power from that.

    Tom

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  • Uncle Hoonsalot
    replied
    Tom,

    My car coughed and died while driving down the road a few weeks ago. I'm working on diag and noticed a 2 wire plug on the factory harness underneath the intake manifold/supercharger that is not plugged in. I can't seem to find anything for it to plug in to, though. Is that plug simply something that is unused with the supercharger kit?

    I should add that I haven't yet had a chance to check if it's getting spark, so I'm not too far into getting it fixed yet.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tom @ Fast Forward
    replied
    It will add about 20bhp or about 16whp.

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  • Uncle Hoonsalot
    replied
    Running 93 currently. Thankfully we have steady supply of good stuff here. Unfortunately, I decided against E85 while I live in the current city, as I know of 3 pumps in the metro area and none of them are close to me. Any guesses what sort of a gain bumping to the 115 might net me?

    Leave a comment:


  • Tom @ Fast Forward
    replied
    Depends on what type fuel you are running. The NB2 has 10:1 compression so we don't normally recommend too much pulley on gasoline. Stock pulley is 105mm. You could probably get away with a 115mm pulley on 93/94 octane out east. That would pretty well double the stock hp of that engine. Beyond that I would seriously recommend E85. Then you could probably get all the way to the 130mm pulley on stock internals Beyond that, you would need forged internals. No need to change out the MP62. I am at 25psi boost on my MP62 with the 150mm pulley.

    Leave a comment:


  • Uncle Hoonsalot
    replied
    Tom, I'm thinking about different size pulleys. What would your recommendation be for a stock internals NB2 with the Eaton supercharger on it? I'm also sort of thinking about that Magnuson. I'd need forged internals to make good use of that, correct?

    Leave a comment:

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