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  • Nuts under manifold

    I've just spent 2 hours trying to get one nut on, it's the #2 nut (starting at the back) on the underside of the manifold. I still haven't been able to do it.

    Obviously you guys have managed it, what's the trick? I have all sorts of 1/4" 12mm sockets, wobbles, etc, but I can't get the nut to sit in line with the stud, it's always askew, and the lower surface of the plenum creates an interference with my sockets.

    All the others I can get my fingertips in to start the nut, but that one is inaccessible to me, so no dexterity options.

    twj

  • #2
    Update: after another significant struggle, and enough profanities to make an entire ship blush, I managed to get the errant nut started on the stud. Then I spent another half an hour trying to find the rear-most lower nut after I dropped it down around the starter. Now it's started too, but I can't figure out how to tighten those two properly. All the others are accessible, but so far I haven't figured out the right combination of tools to get a good hold on them and cinch them up.

    I keep telling myself this is going to be the hardest part, but taking a whole working saturday to get 9 manifold nuts on is slow even by my standards...

    twj

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    • #3
      The first time (had to replace the engine because of snc failure on my 90) I used an open ended wrench....got it tight, but it was a bear to get to and to get tight. The second time I tried a number of different wrenches...turns out a smaller craftsman box end that I had fit over them.

      You could always take a wrench to your bench grinder and make it a little slimmer in order to fit past the sc base.

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      • #4
        that is what i did as well... a ring spanner ground down thinner works well.....

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        • #5
          I had an offset box wrench in 12mm which was able to get on the #2 nut and I could just *barely* get 30 degrees of throw out of it, allowing me to tighten the nut somewhat. It's not as tight as its friends but I think it's OK.

          Weirdly the one I had the hardest time tightening in the end was the #1, I could get my flex 12mm socket on it but couldn't turn it without the socket walking off the nut due to having to bend down past the bottom of the plenum. I could get a box wrench on it but couldn't find enough room to get a useful throw.

          I'm going to pick up a 12mm crow's foot and see if that fits better, fingers crossed...

          twj

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          • #6
            That 1/4in 12mm crowsfoot is going to be your best buddy. I even had luck with a 3/8 drive. Better yet grind down the sides on the crowsfoot it will allow you to fully engage the nut. Is it still a 1/2 turn at a time event,yes but you can get there.
            bigblue. 12psi - FFS duel kool - Water/Meth - MSM clutch - 37 Koyo
            4/1 RB header - catless midpipe - Borla muffler -
            MSM engine mounts. 1999 10AE

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            • #7
              If I ever install another manifold I'll just call Steve inVC. I spent more time telling him how hard it was going to be than he took to do it. That SOB just reached down from the top and spun it on in like 30 seconds!!
              '00 Coldside FFSC 130mm pulley @ 18.5psi. on E85. OBX header, Goodwin Midpipe, Tein Flex, Koyo Rad, Etc.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by socal pat View Post
                If I ever install another manifold I'll just call Steve inVC. I spent more time telling him how hard it was going to be than he took to do it. That SOB just reached down from the top and spun it on in like 30 seconds!!
                One advantage to being an orangutan (15" neck, 36" arms).

                And, I took a grinder to the 12mm from my $4.95 open / box end set, you get much more swing with a 3" box end. Since then, I bought a stubby set from Harbor Freight.
                Silver 2000, 5 speed with 3.9:1 torsen, 245/35X16, 110mm pulley, Robello head - cooled by E-Cool

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                • #9
                  Nuts under manifold

                  Hi From New Zealand,
                  The way around this is to remove the oil filter, makes the job easy.

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                  • #10
                    12mm 1/4-drive Snap-On crowfoot socket on ebay: $12.49 shipped.

                    Crappy no-name crowfoot metric set at local auto parts store: $28

                    Craftsman metric crowfoot set at Sears: $50

                    Lowes and Home Depot: "Crowfoot? WTF?"


                    I bought the eBay one. Hopefully it'll be here by this weekend. Also picked up quite a slender Kobalt stubby 12mm 12pt combo wrench at Lowes.

                    Now, if I hadn't destroyed my EGR feed tube, I'd be in good shape to finish up this weekend!

                    twj

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                    • #11
                      Wow. That crowfoot was far and away the best way to finish tightening those two nuts.

                      Still, if I ever have to remove the manifold, I'm going to pull the whole engine for the R&R, it'll be easier! Last time I removed a Miata engine I went from a fresh start to engine sitting on an old tire in ~2 hours. I don't bother removing the transmission, and yes, I do have to replace the gearbox oil and coolant, but that's maintenance anyway.

                      It's all about access to the fasteners! And the fact that I have gorilla hands and arms.

                      twj

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