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What did you do to prepare for the installation of the FFS

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  • What did you do to prepare for the installation of the FFS

    I thought it might be good to have a place to talk about preparations and getting ready for the Fast Forward. This seemed to be the only place to talk about this, as I have a 2000 model, but I think this should be up for each series, NA, NB, NC.
    First here is a little about what I have already done. Pix at; http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jon.../library/Miata
    Started with a 2000 Miata, it had 115000 miles on it when purchased, mostly stock and a little worn. It had been lowered and is an LS model.
    It came with; CAI from Rspeed, Cool air box, Header pipe from Racing Beat, Crappy air filter
    My first mod was a new air filter and sealing up and modifying the cool air box for a little for better air flow and sealing from engine heat. Second, new Plugs and Wires. Next was the Hard Dog M2 Roll Bar, SafetyÖthird I guess. , I bought mine from Flyin Miata http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...%20%202%20DIAG Pretty straight forward install, looks good took me about 4-5 hours total.
    Then a new Stainless steel exhaust system, also from Flyin Miata http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...umber=06-58100
    I wanted to keep a Cat, and since the turbo was far in the future I decided on this 2.25 Pipe because I didnít want to be to loud for street driving. Sounds Great. New brakes and tires, painted the stock rims black, I think it looks good. Next, Coolant re-routing and more displacement, It is 2.0L Stock crank set up. (really 1.95L) Check out McCully http://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/i...s/Page1100.htm I first found them when looking at the V8 Conversions, they do the Ford conversion, I personally like this better than the LS* versions. McCully Racing is a family business, and part time, so this isnít there whole life, however, they are extremely helpful and communicate well. Jason does most of the communicating and coordinating, his Father Tom is the Builder. They were helpful even while I was still trying to decide which way to go. After writing back and forth and talking on the phone, I decided on a short block from McCully. Tom assembled it to my specifications, in a timely manner and provided the oversized head gasket required. Even as a Short block it was shipped right to my house. The short block was very well Crated and packaged, I was very happy.
    Here are the specifics.
    Built bottom end with Supertech low compression pistons (9.0) and Manley rods: (I chose 9.0 Compression because I see a turbo in my future) Edit, turned out to be a Supercharger
    $3210 (bottom end)
    $250 (gasket)
    $250 (crank core charge) I kept the Crank and Block they kept the core charge
    $100 (shipping)
    $3810 total

    Please keep in mind that you can get just the block or most any combination, just contact them and let them know what you want to do, they are very helpful.
    I would expect that the prices may increase as it has been a while since I ordered, but it seems a fair price to pay. The only hiccup was the crank core, Not a big deal but I didnít understand the conditions for sending my crank and getting the core charge back, until it was time to send it back. The bottom line is that I would have liked to know the conditions up front, I neglected to ask, and I wasnít told until I asked how to ship it. I decided to just keep my crank as I didnít have a fine enough Micrometer to measure it and make sure it was within tolerances. (.0001)
    Tom McCully answered every question and concern I had. They are very easy to work with and nearly every aspect went smoothly. Fairly priced and If I later decide I want a V8, I would very much like McCully Racing and Tom to build it for me.
    OK now to what I did with the McCully 2.0. Here are some pix http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jon...gine%20Rebuild
    Stock head was shaved .0010, (about 9.2 compression) received new Valve Springs, seals and hardware, (Supertech Miata valve spring kit 94-05) from (949 Racing, https://949racing.com/supertech-valv...-05-miata.aspx, three angle Valve job and cleaned locally by Apples Machine Shop. I cleaned up both the intake and exhaust ports and matched them to the gaskets.
    Matched up the lower intake to the gasket, got a little carried away in a few spots, but Apples fixed it up for me. They are very reasonably priced as well and are quick to offer advice. The header matched the gasket fairly well already, but I did use a flap wheel to smooth it out some.
    Used the Stock Cams but of course had to redo all the shims.
    New Oil Pump
    Rebuilt Water pump
    New Valve Timing hardware and belt (stock pullys)
    Water re-route kit (SuperMiata coolant reroute system, from 949 Racing), http://949racing.com/miata-coolant-reroute-system.aspx
    Lightened Crank Pulley (SuperMiata Harmonic Damper from 949 Racing), https://949racing.com/SuperMiata-Harmonic-Balancer.aspx (this has to come off to use the Supercharger, and go back to the stock pulley)
    New Fuel Rail (SuperMiata dual feed fuel rail 1.8 Mazda Miata from 949 Racing), (Same one I got from FFS) https://949racing.com/SuperMiata-fuel-rail.aspx
    ARP Head Studs from 949 Racing, https://949racing.com/ARP-head-studs-miata.aspx
    Oil filter Relocation from Rock Auto, 2000 MAZDA MIATA 1.8L L4 : Engine : Oil Cooler Mounting Kit, http://www.rockauto.com/ I also purchased most of my stock stuff from Rock Auto, very reasonably priced, good selection, easy to use website for ordering, very helpful customer service. I buy stuff for all my cars there.
    I purchased a used Transmission that was advertised as ďin good shape when removedĒ as mine had issues. I took this to a local repair shop, Custom Car Care, http://www.customcarcareva.com/index.htm so they could go through it, Syncros were all good but the shift forks needed to be replaced. Transmission work is expensive; I donít have the tools for that so it goes to the shop. Custom Car Care does a great job and is very customer oriented. I started going here because they have a dyno and I used it for my 96 Probe and 94 RX7.
    So between engine and transmission goes the, Happy Meal, from Flyin Miata http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...005%20%2010.30 I got the 10.3Lb flywheel as I said, I see a Turbo in my future. (Tom talks about drivability issues but Iím not having any)
    Since I saw a turbo (or supercharger) in my future I decided that rather than have this radiator repaired, or buying a new stocker, I would go ahead and get the aluminum cross flow from Flyin Miata. http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...0%20%201990-97
    It fits nice and works very well. here are some pix http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jon...rossflow%20Rad
    So these are the things I have done prior to purchasing the FFS.

    This is what I have done after purchasing the FFS, to get better prepared.
    So to get started, I did the oil change, and some cleaning. Then added some gauges I think are important, the a/f gauge is the one recommended by Tom.
    Here are Pix http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jon...a/New%20Gauges
    A vacuum/boost gauge, mechanical and a AEM Air Fuel Gauge, http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideba...safe-gauge-84/
    The plan is to use the AEM to show the A/F digitally and the sweep to show boost, along with the Vacuum boost gauge. As Tom said this gauge has the advantage of data logging. I also decided to add some gauge faces, not required but I like the way they look. I am also going to do the oil pressure mod, I have all the parts and it shouldn't be to hard, now that I have had the dash apart.

    I did this for fun here are the pix http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jon...Brake%20lights
    The Car is lowered so I thought it might be good to have a higher Brake light.
    If you are wondering what the kit will look like here are some pix. http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jon...ed%20Induction
    I haven't opened the bags, but it is all laid out, I will wait till I am installing to open the bags. I'll take more pix then. I will be putting the two tanks of 91 octain through the car starting tomorrow. While that is going on I am getting an idea of what the current Vacuum readings and AFRs are. So far good Vacuum 20-21in and between 14.3-14.6 AFR at Idle. Stomp on it and it goes to to zero, and 12.7-13 AFR. I still need to calibrate the AFR gauge.
    The packaging is very good, the only thing that might be better is if the bags were labeled or numbered to go with the inventory sheets and instructions.

    More to follow
    2000 Miata LS, Silver, Black Hard Top, sleeved 1950cc FFS with 120mm
    Freeway flyer Trans (5th gear from a FC RX7)
    2013 MazdaSpeed3 2.3L

  • #2
    Thanks for the idea. I added a new forum and moved this.
    sigpic


    1990 with FFS Coldside. At least 260 WHP NON-INTERCOOLED

    Comment


    • #3
      Here is a short Update, Still plan to install the kit over Christmas.
      Running the 93 through tank and got one tank through it. The A/F gauge is rarely steady and now seems to swing farther. I am looking at it while using Cruse control on fairly flat ground at 65-75 MPH and it will go from 13.9 to 14.8. For a while it will hold at 14.3 or 14.5 but not for long. This could be due to the current mods, see above, but it could also be an indication of an issue that needs attention. Or it could be the Computer learning since I had the battery disconnected when installing the gauges and brake lights, could have got wiped. Seems to run fine, not throwing any codes.

      Anyone that might have a suggestion or comment please throw it out, I would not like to get the kit on and then have to take something apart right after. Other than this, that might not even be important, everything is on target.
      2000 Miata LS, Silver, Black Hard Top, sleeved 1950cc FFS with 120mm
      Freeway flyer Trans (5th gear from a FC RX7)
      2013 MazdaSpeed3 2.3L

      Comment


      • #4
        At idle, cruise and part throttle, the A/F is under the control of the stock narrow band O2 sensor and works like a windshield wiper. The 'average' of the swings under cruise and idle should be close to 14.7. For example if it swings from 14.2 to 15.2 to 14.3 to 15.3 and so on, the average is 14.7. When you plant your foot firmly on the floor, even the stock Miata should be close to 12:1 and steady. That is because the ECU ignores the stock O2 and goes OPEN LOOP and simply gors to it's look up table and pick a steady value for the injectors. In other words, normal.
        sigpic


        1990 with FFS Coldside. At least 260 WHP NON-INTERCOOLED

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Tom
          I am aware of how the narrow band works, but the "average" I am seeing is closer to 14.3 and while it isn't real rich it seems rich.
          I also see that while the vacuum reading on the AEM failsafe lights seems correct and matches my stand alone gauge, the numbers don't. I have put the vac/boost in the center (digital) part of the gauge, and I can see what comes out in the log the lights and my gauge at idle show steady at 20 inches but the digital and the log show -15 inches.
          I have written to AEM to see if I am doing something wrong. I have checked that I have the newest Software and believe I have the newest firmware.

          I painted the lower portion of the Manifold silver, just for a little color contrast, reading the instructions again. :-)
          2000 Miata LS, Silver, Black Hard Top, sleeved 1950cc FFS with 120mm
          Freeway flyer Trans (5th gear from a FC RX7)
          2013 MazdaSpeed3 2.3L

          Comment


          • #6
            In the past when I have seen the A/F at idle and cruise start to go rich, it is the front O2 sensor going bad. As they age/deteriorate, they tend to go rich.
            sigpic


            1990 with FFS Coldside. At least 260 WHP NON-INTERCOOLED

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks Tom, I will watch it and see how it goes.
              In the mean time, I am getting the Stock Pulley ready to go back on, to replace the Aluminum one. Doesn't look as good but it won't fly apart due to the supercharger stress either.
              Here are the pix; http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jon...etting%20ready

              It was rusty and I cleaned it up and sprayed it with rust converter, then some paint, I will have to get the other one off so that will add to the time. Also painted the lower part of the intake manifold.
              2000 Miata LS, Silver, Black Hard Top, sleeved 1950cc FFS with 120mm
              Freeway flyer Trans (5th gear from a FC RX7)
              2013 MazdaSpeed3 2.3L

              Comment


              • #8
                Looking good. Let me know If I can help.
                sigpic


                1990 with FFS Coldside. At least 260 WHP NON-INTERCOOLED

                Comment


                • #9
                  Disassembly and Test fit.

                  Good day and thanks for checking this out, I hope it is helpful to you.
                  I chose the FFS kit over a V8 kit and the BEGi/FM turbo kits. Seems like a simple installation and reasonable engine control. Something I didn’t consider is that this kit is installed on the “busy” side of the engine :-)

                  I made many modifications to my Miata. Specifically in the engine compartment, I have an over-bored and sleeved block, 1950 cc, I added the coolant reroute, and a remote oil filter, and oil pressure sender. These caused some concern for the installation. Here are some pix; http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jon.../library/Miata

                  I spent one day test fitting and moving stuff around for best fit of components like the Vacuum block and the IAC valve, how to run the vacuum and fuel lines and how to run the wires to the moved components. This took some time and lots of partial assembly/disassembly/reassembly. One trick is to get some 3M double stick tape to hold things in place while you decide where you want to mount them, check the fit and make sure the wire connectors will reach. More Pix on the disassembly and test fit; http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jon...d%20Test%20Fit

                  The intake manifold in this kit is the hardest I have ever installed! It is well made and sturdy, but it is a pain in the rear (and lower back). You can’t use a socket on any of the 9 nuts, if you have shouldered nuts, they won’t fit on the bottom. You will need a crow foot to tighten all of these and the bottom ones are very difficult to torque. Make sure to do the math, my torque wrench and crows foot lowered the torque by just over 2Ftlbs (so if you want to torque to 21Ftlbs, I had to set my torque wrench to 23Ftlbs). It is easier to tighten up the top nuts if you haven’t installed the fuel rail. Here is a pic of the nuts I used; http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jon...93149.jpg.html

                  I found that rather than fight all the things under the manifold, it was much easier to just remove the starter, the oil pressure sender, and the oil filter relocation adaptor or oil filter as the case may be (the instructions have you remove the Alternator). This gives you reasonable access to the lower intake nuts. Still difficult to install but not impossible to tighten the nuts and you can torque them with the crows foot (remember to do the math). Of course this means that you have to reinstall that stuff, but I still think you will be time and frustration ahead to just remove those items when you remove the stock manifold.
                  Now it is time to start the real install of this kit. :D
                  2000 Miata LS, Silver, Black Hard Top, sleeved 1950cc FFS with 120mm
                  Freeway flyer Trans (5th gear from a FC RX7)
                  2013 MazdaSpeed3 2.3L

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Tom @ Fast Forward View Post
                    In the past when I have seen the A/F at idle and cruise start to go rich, it is the front O2 sensor going bad. As they age/deteriorate, they tend to go rich.
                    Hello Tom, it has warmed up some and the snow is at least out of the driveway so I have been looking the car over and I did get a New O2 sensor, bought the one for the CA emissions since that is what is on the data sticker. Installed it Friday and cleared the computer by disconnecting the battery and holding the brake peddle down then started the car, it was leaner right away, I see AFRs between 14.5 and 15.2 so about 14.8 average now, I will use the Fail safe data collection to get a better number, but I think you were correct, front O2 sensor going bad.

                    Thanks for the tip
                    2000 Miata LS, Silver, Black Hard Top, sleeved 1950cc FFS with 120mm
                    Freeway flyer Trans (5th gear from a FC RX7)
                    2013 MazdaSpeed3 2.3L

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yea. Glad to help.
                      sigpic


                      1990 with FFS Coldside. At least 260 WHP NON-INTERCOOLED

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hello Tom, and anyone else that might be checking these forums out.

                        I will likely send my question in email as well but i am posting here just incase the answer is something others can use.

                        I would like to know if there is any benefit to using different Camshafts in the Supercharged Miata engine?
                        pretty open question I know, so let me limit it a little for me. I am going to install a 2000 Miata head that has 1MM over sized valves and has matched ports to the intake and exhaust gaskets.
                        Just looking to see if there are cams AVAILABLE, not regrinds or something custome but available to by that may help the supercharged 2000 Miata breath easier.
                        Thanks
                        2000 Miata LS, Silver, Black Hard Top, sleeved 1950cc FFS with 120mm
                        Freeway flyer Trans (5th gear from a FC RX7)
                        2013 MazdaSpeed3 2.3L

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          When Rebello built my 99 engine they put an exhaust cam on the inlet side. Theoretically that gives a little more lift and more duration. I also have 1mm oversized valves and flowed ports.

                          Does it all help? Sure should. J The Coldside is so efficient, I really canít answer that question. Same pulley ratios give about the same boost and power as a stock 99 engine.
                          sigpic


                          1990 with FFS Coldside. At least 260 WHP NON-INTERCOOLED

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thanks Tom,
                            So you are telling me that you have the stock exhaust cam on both the intake and exhaust sides of the engine.
                            Better because the lift and duration is longer, that would seem to help, especially in a NA engine. I guess better all around.
                            Do you know if it required anything special to use the exhaust cam on the intake side? Is the Cam timing Stock? Are you using adjustable cam gears?

                            Thanks
                            2000 Miata LS, Silver, Black Hard Top, sleeved 1950cc FFS with 120mm
                            Freeway flyer Trans (5th gear from a FC RX7)
                            2013 MazdaSpeed3 2.3L

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Keep in mind that I gave Rebello a 99 engine and a lot of money. They did the rest. Hopefully someone else can say if it takes anything special. It is a stock exhaust can in both sides.

                              I think it makes a bigger difference on an normally aspirated engine. The Cold side is pretty good at stuffing air into the cylinder. No adjustable can gears. Would like to try them as it has a lot of overlap. Compression check netted 150-160 on all four. I did a leak down to con Dr irm the engine was tight and, after about 25,000 miles, the cylinders we're 0, 0, 3, 0. :-) Pretty good. Live those JE pistons.
                              sigpic


                              1990 with FFS Coldside. At least 260 WHP NON-INTERCOOLED

                              Comment

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